Ryan, waht about those "baffle inserts" that go inside the axle tubes that the axle shafts pass through? They are located inside the axle tube close to where the axle tubes get welded to the pumpkin (third member area)
Ryan's 4-Runner Projects (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter raevenzero
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- #182
Those are pretty thin. The way I was under the truck I could see the one on the short side, but not the long side. I'm wondering if it didn't take a hit that popped it over in the path of the ring gear. Or maybe I jammed an axle shaft into it? I'll look next time I have the diff out. Hopefully, that will not be anytime soon!
Right now, I'm looking at Martacks. I think I'm going to go that route to make birf swaps even more of a breeze.
Right now, I'm looking at Martacks. I think I'm going to go that route to make birf swaps even more of a breeze.
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- #183
Martacks are done.
Shafts and birfs are in. I used my spares because they were in better shape. The shafts that were pulled out were also tacked, so I have tacked spares.
The knuckles and all were thoroughly cleaned and freshly greased. There were some sharp edges and gouges on the short side ball, so I hit those with a flapper wheel. I should have my bearings today so the knuckles can go back on. Hopefully, I can put the rear brakes and wheels back on tonight also. I was too busy yesterday and didn't get as much done as I had hoped.
It is supposed to be warm next week so I am hoping to get this and the body work done so that I can get something painted before it snows...AGAIN!
Also, the spring like pieces are pretty close to the size of the snap-ring that goes inside of the birfs. I didn't think of that before, but after splitting them last night, I could see that they were pretty close. It must have somehow pushed at least some of the pieces past the seal, it was bound-up pretty bad. The both baffles in the axle feel like their intact. I hit them a few times with shafts last night.
Shafts and birfs are in. I used my spares because they were in better shape. The shafts that were pulled out were also tacked, so I have tacked spares.
The knuckles and all were thoroughly cleaned and freshly greased. There were some sharp edges and gouges on the short side ball, so I hit those with a flapper wheel. I should have my bearings today so the knuckles can go back on. Hopefully, I can put the rear brakes and wheels back on tonight also. I was too busy yesterday and didn't get as much done as I had hoped.
It is supposed to be warm next week so I am hoping to get this and the body work done so that I can get something painted before it snows...AGAIN!
Also, the spring like pieces are pretty close to the size of the snap-ring that goes inside of the birfs. I didn't think of that before, but after splitting them last night, I could see that they were pretty close. It must have somehow pushed at least some of the pieces past the seal, it was bound-up pretty bad. The both baffles in the axle feel like their intact. I hit them a few times with shafts last night.
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- #184
I got my bearings yesterday and the short side knuckle is back on. I deformed the cage on the bottom bearing on the driver's side and it wouldn't go on. I ended up breaking the cage. Hopefully, I can pick up a matching bearing locally so that I can get this behind me.
I moved onto modifying the rear disk brackets. Unfortunately, my drill one hold a bit large enough to drill up to the size I need and my drill press is broken, probably beyond repair. I'm trying to source a good used drill press locally. The cheap Powertec one that I bought didn't last long and I don't want to go all out and buy something new that I use so rarely.
I moved onto modifying the rear disk brackets. Unfortunately, my drill one hold a bit large enough to drill up to the size I need and my drill press is broken, probably beyond repair. I'm trying to source a good used drill press locally. The cheap Powertec one that I bought didn't last long and I don't want to go all out and buy something new that I use so rarely.
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- #185
I just picked up one of these. It's probably not the best drill press in the world, but it is better than what I have now. I can't stop it with my hand like I could the bench top.
Who's up for helping me finagle out of my car trunk tomorrow morning? Thanks in advance
Who's up for helping me finagle out of my car trunk tomorrow morning? Thanks in advance
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Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Nice score. Give me a minute or 2 and I'll come give you a hand with it. 
Good progress bud and nice score on the drill press, makes some of those drill jobs so much easier
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- #188
Might have been a different story if I would've applied for the job vacancy in NOLA a couple of months ago.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Yep, definitely could have helped you out then.......
- Thread starter
- #190
I got about an hour in on the truck last night. I installed the new knuckle bearing and it went right into place without an issue. This was the hub that had the bearing play that was way too loose for me. I tightened it up and....it rolls easy but jerky. I ordered a set of wheel bearings from rockauto and I'll get back to it.
I added a 3/16's plate to my rear disk brackets. On of the belts on the new drill press was stretched and it would stop turning the chuck if you forced it too much. I put a new belt on it and WOW. No more starting holes with a torch and cleaning them up. No more trying to wallow out holes. No more being forced to use a step bit because the bit I really need is too big for my chuck. This thing is going to make many projects much easier. Dare I say it might even be enough for notching tubing which killed my old benchtop drill press.
I added a 3/16's plate to my rear disk brackets. On of the belts on the new drill press was stretched and it would stop turning the chuck if you forced it too much. I put a new belt on it and WOW. No more starting holes with a torch and cleaning them up. No more trying to wallow out holes. No more being forced to use a step bit because the bit I really need is too big for my chuck. This thing is going to make many projects much easier. Dare I say it might even be enough for notching tubing which killed my old benchtop drill press.
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- #191
I know that we were just talking about this and I probably jinxed myself.
Last night I put the front calipers back on. I was tightening the top bolt on the driver's side which has already been tapped to 1/2" and POP! I pulled the bolt out of the hole with threads wrapped around it. I don't see how I've stripped the same side twice now and the other side is just fine.
Anyway, I put the bolt back in and snugged it up slightly. It's going to stay that way until after I get the truck painted. I have to hurry because it is going to be warm this week. Then, who knows. I can tap a hole in cold weather, but I can't paint. It will probably be mid-November before I can get this thing back on the road.
Last night I put the front calipers back on. I was tightening the top bolt on the driver's side which has already been tapped to 1/2" and POP! I pulled the bolt out of the hole with threads wrapped around it. I don't see how I've stripped the same side twice now and the other side is just fine.
Anyway, I put the bolt back in and snugged it up slightly. It's going to stay that way until after I get the truck painted. I have to hurry because it is going to be warm this week. Then, who knows. I can tap a hole in cold weather, but I can't paint. It will probably be mid-November before I can get this thing back on the road.
- Thread starter
- #192
I'm getting there.
Got the front wheels on last night. Also filled the diffs with oil. Rear driver hub is ready for a wheel. The rear passenger has the caliper bracket finished, but I have to grind the flange a tad before I can put it together the rest of the way. I find this to be easier to do with the truck running and in gear. Problem is, the Optima battery isn't holding a charge. Luckily, I have a few spares although none were up to the task of running the glow plugs and turning the truck over fast enough to get it to start. I have a battery charger doing its magic.
I know I've been lacking on pictures. I remembered to take a few last night before closing up. The blue you see on the door and on the hub dials is the blue that I'm going to use on the rest of the truck. The paint is made by Valspar and a local farm store chain carries it in sizes from spray can to 5 gallons. I'm not going to tell you the name of the color!
Got the front wheels on last night. Also filled the diffs with oil. Rear driver hub is ready for a wheel. The rear passenger has the caliper bracket finished, but I have to grind the flange a tad before I can put it together the rest of the way. I find this to be easier to do with the truck running and in gear. Problem is, the Optima battery isn't holding a charge. Luckily, I have a few spares although none were up to the task of running the glow plugs and turning the truck over fast enough to get it to start. I have a battery charger doing its magic.
I know I've been lacking on pictures. I remembered to take a few last night before closing up. The blue you see on the door and on the hub dials is the blue that I'm going to use on the rest of the truck. The paint is made by Valspar and a local farm store chain carries it in sizes from spray can to 5 gallons. I'm not going to tell you the name of the color!
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Must be a heep color.......
Looks good Ryan!
Looks good Ryan!
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- #194
Must be a heep color.......
Not a heep color. It's actually tractor paint. I wanted the Toyota Electric blue. This is close, is cheap, should be very durable, and I can get it any time I need it.
How did you remove the drum brakes?
- Thread starter
- #196
Sorry that I didn't take pictures. I did it awhile ago.
I pressed the axle out of the drum. Once the axle and flange were out of the way, I pressed the 4 studs out of the drum and separated the bearing housing.
I bought the v6 brackets on eBay and modified them for my old 4 cylinder calipers and larger bolts.
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- #197
Also important to note that this removes the parking brake.
I had already broken my cable. The main reason I did this was because I had to constantly adjust the drums by hand, it was also due for new shoes, Springs, etc. This may have been a cheaper fix than overhauling the drums and I never have to worry about adjustment.
I will probably look into a line lock as a temporary brake. The diesel hardly holds the truck when in gear. There's no vacuum to create resistance.
I had already broken my cable. The main reason I did this was because I had to constantly adjust the drums by hand, it was also due for new shoes, Springs, etc. This may have been a cheaper fix than overhauling the drums and I never have to worry about adjustment.
I will probably look into a line lock as a temporary brake. The diesel hardly holds the truck when in gear. There's no vacuum to create resistance.
What is a line lock, other than that looking sweet. I'm gonna like the blue.
Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Looks like Ford blue to me.
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- #200
A line lock is a valve that is installed inline with a brake line and can lock pressure in the line. Probably not the best solution, but better than nothing. I'll carry a set of chalks too.
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