Ryan's 4-Runner Projects

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I'm thinking of fabbing up a homemade twin-stick before SCC. Any thoughts? I think it should be pretty easy and have a basic design in my head.

I remember last year, there was a time when I was on gravel on the end of a cliff and couldn't really get the truck to turn the right was with the front locker engaged. I think the twin stick will help with turning and should cost me less than $20.
 
Well, seeing how I just installed a lunch box locker in the front and I have a twin stick, how does a twin stick help when the locker is engaged and you want to turn? I was under the impression you would need to shift out of 4WD to make the turn. Are you saying that 2WD Low is what you are looking for?
 
going 2WD will help some but to turn sharp will still need to free wheel the front hubs or at least one of em:)

me like my selectable lockers:D
 
Yes, it would give me 2 low.

My lock is pretty good at following the prevailing torque theory. Even when the hubs are locked, I can run in 2H and not notice the front locker other than hearing the ratcheting sound of the cam teeth bouncing. I use 2H quite a bit on the trail to get around, but it's annoying to have to stop and drop to 4L when I get to an obstacle. Especially since its sometimes difficult to get it to pop quickly. With the twin, I should be able to go back and forth between 2L and 4L without stopping the pack. On the other hand, I'll probably be picked to stay at the back of the pack from now on. I expect that to be a side effect of turning up the injector pump.
 
raevenzero said:
Yes, it would give me 2 low.

My lock is pretty good at following the prevailing torque theory. Even when the hubs are locked, I can run in 2H and not notice the front locker other than hearing the ratcheting sound of the cam teeth bouncing. I use 2H quite a bit on the trail to get around, but it's annoying to have to stop and drop to 4L when I get to an obstacle. Especially since its sometimes difficult to get it to pop quickly. With the twin, I should be able to go back and forth between 2L and 4L without stopping the pack. On the other hand, I'll probably be picked to stay at the back of the pack from now on. I expect that to be a side effect of turning up the injector pump.
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So we'll have our own personal mosquito fogger :lol: no worries. I can see how the twin stick and the option to go from 2L to 4L would definitely aide in the steering and maneuvering. Even though the frontend is still locked you cut the drive torque from the transfercase to the frontend when shifting to 2L which should make it easier steer I'm sure nothing like when it free wheels but considerably better than when the torque is being applied from the driveline. I'm curious to hear your feedback on how it works for you. I haven't run across any how to's for the mini-truck cases but have seen it done on the 40's quite a bit.
 
There are kits to buy, but not many write-ups. It looks pretty simple though. I guess the only part that may take some effort is making sure everything is sealed and I'm not introducing slag or shavings into the TC. Probably have to purchase a boot for it too.
 
So my new winch came in on Friday, but I needed to go help my dad on the farm after work. I start working on mounting it around 10pm. The fairlead was bigger than I expected (I designed the bumper for a hawse style) so I had to using 1.5" square tubing to space out the fairlead from the front plate. Also, kept breaking bits when trying to drill the holes, so I ended up using the plasma cutter and chasing that with a bit to clean it up. It turned out pretty descent and I finished mounting it around 2:30 Saturday morning. I was up at 6am go to wheeling at the Midwest Toyota Jamboree. No one got stuck so I didn't get to use the winch. The only damage in the group was minor body damage on a couple of rigs. EXCEPT FOR ME. I broke another driveshaft at the playground and didn't have a spare this time. I ended up leaving earlier than I wanted and drove home with locked front wheel drive, which is no fun at all.

Anyway, here's a picture of the finished product.

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I'm seriously thinking about always using square shafts when wheeling.
 
I didn't take any, but know others did.

Always nice to have a backup plan. I have some spare parts,I can drive with front or rear drive, and if i break a ring or pinion i can just put the good one in the rear. If all else fails,i have my Good Sam roadside and towing.
 
Good pics bud looked like a great weekend to be on the trails and the Runner looked at home :) added a few of the pics for your thread.

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Thanks. I knew it was missing something.

I got under it to through another drive shaft on and saw a lot of oil on everything. I looks like its coming from a bypass filter hose. I think I will go back to a stock filter for now. Its due for am oil change anyway. I've put over 3k on since the swap and figure I'll take extra good care of my baby. I love this engine more every time I drive it.
 
raevenzero said:
Thanks. I knew it was missing something.

I got under it to through another drive shaft on and saw a lot of oil on everything. I looks like its coming from a bypass filter hose. I think I will go back to a stock filter for now. Its due for am oil change anyway. I've put over 3k on since the swap and figure I'll take extra good care of my baby. I love this engine more every time I drive it.
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Sounds like a good interval to flush with some fresh oil, what a you running in it? Certainly a sweet setup you got there. My thoughts are over maintaining and keeping the rigs happy keeps me happy so I can enjoy them on the trails vs fighting trail repairs :) I have the 80 down right now fixing a few small leaks replacing the OEM seals on the crank and oil pump, gonna torque everything under the front end and grease everything in preparation for SCC while its down :)
 
Right now I'm running the Mobil 1 Delvac with an Amsoil bypass setup. The soft lines running to the remote mounted filter block were hanging down near my axle, so I pulled them up tighter. I believe the angle that they now have to turn is causing them to leak.

I've read online that it is very important to keep these little guys clean because they run so dirty. That's why I kept the bypass setup on it in the first place. I think I will give it a change now and put the stock filter on it, but next change I will use the bypass again with some metal 90* fittings to keep the lines from being stressed. Soft lines will also be replaced, of course.
 
Well, I finally found time to start working on the runner again. The results weren't good. I think I've found where the noise is coming from. I think I'll swap the front and rear diffs until I get some elocker housings to build up. It acted fine, just noisy. Hopefully I can replace it soon.

I also start on some bod work that I have been wanting to do.

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raevenzero said:
Well, I finally found time to start working on the runner again. The results weren't good. I think I've found where the noise is coming from. I think I'll swap the front and rear diffs until I get some elocker housings to build up. It acted fine, just noisy. Hopefully I can replace it soon. I also start on some bod work that I have been wanting to do.
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Good to see you at it again bud. That pinion doesn't look happy I can definitely see it being noisy. As always look forward to seeing the progress with it an how your body repairs come out :)
 
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