Rusty lc100- (3 Viewers)

[haghyk]

Hi mates
I bought a lc100 that came from NJ, see photos of rust. I'm not a handyman and don't want to break anything undercarriage or inhale rust....Is it worth having it repaired or grind/sand metal down and repaint with rust reformer - or let it ride??

 

[haghyk]

 

[ODSTbee]

I would spray everything with fluid film (wool wax/lanolin-based rust preventer) and let it ride.


I just did the whole underside of my '05 lx using a cheap spray gun kit and the gallon of fluid film.
I used this Inokraft spray gun and this gallon of fluid film. I used 1/2 gallon.

The other way is to get a bunch of cans and make sure you get the tube sprayer attachment.

Step 1: take off skid plates and spare tire. Step 2: thoroughly spray everything clean, probably use a cheap pressure washer, I just used the water hose. Let dry overnight. Step 3: spray the fluid film in every hole using the tubes. Spray it all underneath with the normal nozzle. Set the gun adjustment to run somewhere around 70-90 psi when flowing.

Fluid film has a strong smell. Not terrible, just not pleasant. It can burn off your exhaust. It is non-conductive--good for battery posts. Kinda smells like a hot glue gun burning.

 

[haghyk]

Thanks. I don't think I can safely do that myself but I got a quote from a detailer to grind/sand and apply rust preventer and paint - worth the cost?

 

[ODSTbee]

It also comes in spray cans. It's not much harder than taking a picture underneath. You can skip taking the skid plate and spare tire off. It really is a good idea to rinse underneath, you can drive through a carwash for that. Then just spray the fluid film on everything under the car. Whatever you spray on the exhaust will burn off (safely), so no need to apply it there.

I enjoy working on my own vehicle. I know that's not the same for everyone though. It's $80 to buy the spray cans and probably 15-30 minutes to spray. Up to you whether it's worth the trouble.

Edit: on second look, I saw the pictures in your other thread. That rust is pretty rough. That might warrant some actual repairs or looking for a different lc... if it's got holes and you can't bolt anything to it. If metal is exposed to air, it will rust... rubberized undercoating will often get little chips where a rock hits it. Then those little chips will start to rust, the rubber undercoating starts to trap moisture, and the rust gets worse underneath the coating. So definitely don't just get it sprayed with the rustoleum rubber undercoating.

 

[haghyk]

Thanks! That's why I was thinking of having it grinded down first to get to clean metal. That's why it's costly and wondering if worth it. I think you're saying it's worth it to get grinded/sanded down before spraying ...

 

[haghyk]

What you think of this

 

[ODSTbee]

Thanks! That's why I was thinking of having it grinded down first to get to clean metal. That's why it's costly and wondering if worth it. I think you're saying it's worth it to get grinded/sanded down before spraying ...

If you know that you're getting it grinded down and treated soon (within a month or few), no need to spray. But if you let it sit for a while without spraying, it will get worse. Spraying fluid film isn't going to stop anyone from being able to grind, patch, and treat the truck later.

What you think of this

View attachment 3928317

That will have the same issues as the rubberized undercoating spray. You might be more interested in a *rust converter* like POR-15. That does a better job of neutralizing rust. I still recommend applying fluid film (or wool wax, or even a professionally done cosmoline) after the rust converter. I don't have any personal experience with this process and this is where it sounds like you'd want a pro to do it. This process involves a lot of prep work to do right, and it's a waste of time if you don't do it right.

 

[haghyk]

Ok I have a ton of follow up .
Would you say sanding is the same as grinding?
Should I not bother sanding down before applying fluidfilm?
You're saying application of fluidfilm is easy but the por-15 after needs professional care?

 

[ODSTbee]

Ok I have a ton of follow up .
Would you say sanding is the same as grinding?

If I said either word, I simply meant that it takes lots of elbow grease. It would be silly to bother with sandpaper.

Should I not bother sanding down before applying fluidfilm?

Definitely not. It's just this oily/waxy, grease-looking stuff that prevents air and moisture from getting to your metal. It'll stop whatever rust it's covering. If the good metal has been replaced by rust, you cannot turn it into good metal again.

You're saying application of fluidfilm is easy but the por-15 after needs professional care?

por-15 requires you to go Bob Ross on every single bit of rust. From what I've read, it chemically bonds with the outermost layer of rust and turns into a stable (chemically stable, not structurally) coating resembling paint primer. If you're going to invest this amount of time, it should get professional-level care. Check into videos and instructions if you want more info... I'm not familiar.

The way I see it, you have a few options:
1. try to stop the rust with something like fluid film.... cheap and quick, truck probably doesn't rot
2. try and fix the rust damage farther (grinding/sanding/cutting/patching/welding).... slow and expensive, truck is restored
3. ignore it.... marginally cheaper than fluid film, truck continues to rust

Note: I would do option 1 now and consider 2 later. Or you can option 2 now. Or you should consider looking for an LC in a condition you can deal with.

 

[badlander]

DO NOT use the ruberized undercoating. Especially on something that already has rust.
From your pics it looks like it was undercoated in the past and look what happened.
Don't waste time and money on grinding or sanding.
DO pressure wash to remove as much of the old flaking undercoating, paint, and rust as practical. Let dry for a few days and then slather it down with Fluid Film. The Fluid Film will prevent any further rusting.
I had to do this on mine and it is the easiest and most affective method. No more rusting after 10 years of use on and off road.

 

[delz05]

If you want the truck to last beyond a few years... clean off all the oxidation and corrosion. Needle gun, grinder, rust kill, prime paint and coat. labor intensive but the end result is well worth it, if you plan on keeping the truck. Make sure you blow out the internal frame debris and coat the inside frame as well... Woolwax last longer than Fluid Film, does not have the lingering odor and is easy to work with...
The more effort you put into the clean up, the better the long term results wil be.

There is no shortcut when dealing with heavy oxidation and corrosion...

 

[Kabanstva]

You can’t repair that. Too far gone. Just let it ride out as is. Maybe fluid film over it but that’s about it. I wouldn’t even bother needle scaling it or doing any kinda rust removal prior to fluid film. Looks like it was already coated with something black.

 

[haghyk]

DO NOT use the ruberized undercoating. Especially on something that already has rust.
From your pics it looks like it was undercoated in the past and look what happened.
Don't waste time and money on grinding or sanding.
DO pressure wash to remove as much of the old flaking undercoating, paint, and rust as practical. Let dry for a few days and then slather it down with Fluid Film. The Fluid Film will prevent any further rusting.
I had to do this on mine and it is the easiest and most affective method. No more rusting after 10 years of use on and off road.

Ok gotcha. I thought Rust-Oleum is a rust converter to be used in surfaces with pre-existing rust. And fluid film more for newer products to prevent run from starting....did I misstate the science?

 

[haghyk]

If you want the truck to last beyond a few years... clean off all the oxidation and corrosion. Needle gun, grinder, rust kill, prime paint and coat. labor intensive but the end result is well worth it, if you plan on keeping the truck. Make sure you blow out the internal frame debris and coat the inside frame as well... Woolwax last longer than Fluid Film, does not have the lingering odor and is easy to work with...
The more effort you put into the clean up, the better the long term results wil be.

There is no shortcut when dealing with heavy oxidation and corrosion...

Ok . When you say rust kill what product you referring to?

 

[haghyk]

You can’t repair that. Too far gone. Just let it ride out as is. Maybe fluid film over it but that’s about it. I wouldn’t even bother needle scaling it or doing any kinda rust removal prior to fluid film. Looks like it was already c

What If I grind down, rust converter and paint? Not worth it?

 

[Kabanstva]

What If I grind down, rust converter and paint? Not worth it?

I mean what’s the point? It won’t actually fix anything. It would be purely cosmetic. All the hardware will still be seized etc. I’ve been down this road before. Looking back, just leave it as is. Fluid film on top of it all. It sucks but we live in a terrible climate and have to deal with road salt.

 

[haghyk]

I mean what’s the point? It won’t actually fix anything. It would be purely cosmetic. All the hardware will still be seized etc. I’ve been down this road before. Looking back, just leave it as is. Fluid film on top of it all. It sucks but we live in a terrible climate and have to deal with road salt.

How many years can I get out of it by just applying ff?

 

[badlander]

I try to reapply the fluid film about every year or so.

 

[delz05]

Without cleaning and neutralizing the oxidation, you will be wasting your time and money. Do a little internet searching for the rust kill product that will work best for your budget and work area. Any type with an acid base will clean the metal, any "converter" type will stop the oxidation and neutralize the chemical reaction that causes the destruction. But... YOU NEED TO CLEAN and PREP the metal before anything else... Without seeing the rest of the truck, no one here can offer an opion that is worth the time to type. Only YOU can decide if the truck is worth putting in the effort to correct what has already occurred. Based on just the very limited picture of what you have presented, (IF THE ROCKERS, FLOOR, FRAME RAILS and LOWER QUARTER PANELS are not rotted away! Image 5 and 7 give me pause for concern) my first inspection would be to hit the frame with a pointed body hammer to see if it breaks through the frame. If the frame falls apart, no need to read further! I believe I see in image 5, a piece of flat stock has already been welded to facilitate some type of repair previously... image 7 appears to show a perforation of the side of the frame rail.

I would strip the underside of the truck entirely... exhaust, suspension, driveshaft, cross members, bumper covers and anything attached to the underside of the vehicle, (about 4 hours) needle gun the frame, vacuum out the frame rails after, air-blow the frame inner and outer, grind/sand the exposed oxidation (36 to 80 grit discs) spray the rust kill/converter of your choice (garden sprayer), brush it into the hard to reach places, let it set per product specifications, scuff pad, prime and paint. I would then Woolwax the complete inner frame and all exposed areas underneath to include the rockers and floor boards. BUT...