pistonpete
SILVER Star
Wow, what I find ! Nice rig.
Rustbelt ‘87 FJ60
- Thread starter FJACS
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
I’d trade it for your brown one!
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Hehe.. 
nice score fjacs. so the conversation at u-haul went something like this i'll bet... uh yeah, i'd like to rent a car trailer. sure ok, what vehicle will you be hauling with it? a toyota. what model sir? echo, yeah that's it, an echo.
local u-haul wouldn't rent one to me when i needed to move an '81 swb 4wd toyota . "sorry, we can't rent trailer for truck"
where in ontario are you? we might be neighbors
local u-haul wouldn't rent one to me when i needed to move an '81 swb 4wd toyota . "sorry, we can't rent trailer for truck"
where in ontario are you? we might be neighbors
- Thread starter
- #25
I did the U-Haul reservation online. If I recall I had to select a 1990 Land Cruiser -62 as 1987 there wasn’t a land cruiser option or something like that. It wasn’t really an issue, the place I picked the trailer up from they never even came outside. The bigger pain in the butt was trying to find an 8k rated 2” ball. I had a big 2 15/16, but the trailer wouldn’t accommodate it. I ended up buying a 10k pintle/ball combo from Cdn Tire and returning it later the same day
I’m between Hamilton and Niagara Falls.
yup, we're practically neighbors, i'm in woodstock
- Thread starter
- #27
The wheels were a faded and chipped rattlecan job.
I’m undecided on wheels and tires, so figured I’d strip the paint off and see what was beneath.
Not bad. All 4 have some minor pitting, but they cleaned up well enough.
!Yes those are 33x12.50 on stock rims!
!Yes those are 33x12.50 on stock rims!
- Thread starter
- #28
As @g-man pointed out on the last page, there were more than a couple of hoses dangling under the hood.
One issue I immediately noticed was leaking power steering fluid. Pour it in - it comes right back out of the interface between where the pump and reservoir join. Easy fix. Not really. The pulley has to come off the pump. Might as well take the pump out...
Pull the pump apart, find the o-ring between the reservoir and pump is only doing 80% if it’s job
At some point during the power steering pump removal I opted to remove the air filter assembly. I can probably get a few more years from this filter
Also it was around this point I noticed the hose from the air pump to the air rail was game over. The check valve on the rail was rusted and broken and the hose had melted.
No problem. Get a new check valve, replace the hose. But ABV is absolutely full of soot. Hose is full of soot. I’m not sure how long this has been like this - obviously run enough to melt the hose... I don’t even know if the air pump works. It looks original. I guess it’s a air pump desmog at this point.
Ordered an idler pulley from the local tractor dealer. Made up a tensioner...
One issue I immediately noticed was leaking power steering fluid. Pour it in - it comes right back out of the interface between where the pump and reservoir join. Easy fix. Not really. The pulley has to come off the pump. Might as well take the pump out...
Pull the pump apart, find the o-ring between the reservoir and pump is only doing 80% if it’s job
At some point during the power steering pump removal I opted to remove the air filter assembly. I can probably get a few more years from this filter
Also it was around this point I noticed the hose from the air pump to the air rail was game over. The check valve on the rail was rusted and broken and the hose had melted.
No problem. Get a new check valve, replace the hose. But ABV is absolutely full of soot. Hose is full of soot. I’m not sure how long this has been like this - obviously run enough to melt the hose... I don’t even know if the air pump works. It looks original. I guess it’s a air pump desmog at this point.
Ordered an idler pulley from the local tractor dealer. Made up a tensioner...
- Thread starter
- #29
Long time no update. Well. There was an incident. Thermostat stuck shut & pegged the temp gauge. Hoping for the best once the new thermostat is in.
Just read this whole story. Rust belt survivor indeed. Hopefully, the truck survived the overheat incident. Be super careful removing the thermostat housing bolts - spray with penetrating oil and pray.
- Thread starter
- #31
Don’t worry. I broke one off on Saturday
. Luckily once I got the top half of the water neck off I was able to double nut what was left of the bolt and turn it out.
No worries, thanks for letting me know! I'm actually in the process of de-smogging and noticed a leak on my PS pump which looks to be coming from this junction. I'll pull the reservoir tonight and get the o-ring out so I can replace it. If it solves the issue then I've saved myself from replacing the whole pump, yay!
Cheers, James
- Thread starter
- #35
Thermostat in - 144inlb on the water neck. Ran it for 15-20 minutes with the front in the air until the bubbles stopped in the coolant funnel.
Back to normal, drove to town, drove around the orchard a bunch and crossed a few ditches. We seem to have made it with no adverse effects - so far.
Back to normal, drove to town, drove around the orchard a bunch and crossed a few ditches. We seem to have made it with no adverse effects - so far.
- Thread starter
- #36
Ended up with an M12000 from a surplussed utility company truck. Although it’s only 2 years old, 4 of the 6 mounting bolts were seized or had thread locker on them and broke during removal. The 5/8 bolt heads broke clean off.
I’ve heard a million times about welding a nut to a broken bolt or stud, tried it many times over the years with no luck. Not wanting to drill out 4 busted off grade 8 fastners, I started reading posts on Practical Machinist.
For my own future reference, here’s what worked:
1. clean grease/rust off the stud;
2. weld a washer to the broken stud/bolt;
3. weld a nut to the washer as well as to the stud. At this point the nut and washer are scorching hot
4. Bang on the nut with a hammer 8-10 times;
5. With an unlit candle use the nut and washer to melt a bunch of wax, which will flow into the threads; and
6. Let cool completely.
3 came out on the first weld attempt. The 4th took 3 tries. Interestingly when the bolts came out, I could feel the wax on the threads.
Just cleaning it up now, all of the Warn factory installed bolts (clutch cover, etc) bolts came out without issue. When I’m done I’ll hang it in the ARB bumper to maximize the stinkbug look.
I’ve heard a million times about welding a nut to a broken bolt or stud, tried it many times over the years with no luck. Not wanting to drill out 4 busted off grade 8 fastners, I started reading posts on Practical Machinist.
For my own future reference, here’s what worked:
1. clean grease/rust off the stud;
2. weld a washer to the broken stud/bolt;
3. weld a nut to the washer as well as to the stud. At this point the nut and washer are scorching hot
4. Bang on the nut with a hammer 8-10 times;
5. With an unlit candle use the nut and washer to melt a bunch of wax, which will flow into the threads; and
6. Let cool completely.
3 came out on the first weld attempt. The 4th took 3 tries. Interestingly when the bolts came out, I could feel the wax on the threads.
Just cleaning it up now, all of the Warn factory installed bolts (clutch cover, etc) bolts came out without issue. When I’m done I’ll hang it in the ARB bumper to maximize the stinkbug look.
incredible......
cruiserinsanity
SILVER Star
Bump, it’s been three years.
it's bizarre you bump this up gavin, was thinking earlier this eve that i hadn't seen @FJACS on in quite some time. didn't think it was 3 years though
