here are some pic's. I dont really care about the looks as I do the Longevity. Let me know what you think!
rust repair progress
- Thread starter batman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #2
more pics
keep em coming....make sure you get all the pits...its almost better to cut all the half pitted stuff out because it will just start rusting months later....
- Thread starter
- #4
The last 2 pic's are before pics, I should have some after pics tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #5
i was missing the plate that goes over the rear hatch lock so I made one out of diamond plate.
batman said:
what kind of messed up world is this...
those damn plate fairies come and take those sumbitches when your not looking! harder to find than the damn easter bunny!
(...mine was missing too... ordered from SOR 20$ used...)
lol
rob
and the 200 post - blah blah blah...
actually, nice repair. I have some rust i want to tackle. are you cutting it out and welding in new? what kind of anti rust u using? por 15 or similar? Keep the pics coming - it's motivation for us lazy bastards!
rob
actually, nice repair. I have some rust i want to tackle. are you cutting it out and welding in new? what kind of anti rust u using? por 15 or similar? Keep the pics coming - it's motivation for us lazy bastards!
rob
- Thread starter
- #8
sl33py said:
Thanks my motivation is a child on the way, I have a son to be born around the 20th of Sept and I know when he is born I will have no time for the LC.
Besides that I am using off the self rust inhibitor and some primer. I plan to cover the inside and outside with a truck bed liner.
congrats on the kid! hopefully you guys will be working on the LC together soon...
so you are sanding off the rust, applying the inhibitor, then primering it? filling with bondo?
im a bodywork noob, have some rust myself, and want to see what works well. Anyone else have experience on this and care to chime in? I don't want to fix this and have it back in 6mos...
Rob
so you are sanding off the rust, applying the inhibitor, then primering it? filling with bondo?
im a bodywork noob, have some rust myself, and want to see what works well. Anyone else have experience on this and care to chime in? I don't want to fix this and have it back in 6mos...
Rob
looks like good progress on the rust abatement program! what technique are you using to affix the new sheetmetal? welding a bead the full length, spot welds and filler, or other?
I got into mine this past weekend and used my grinder to find the good metal; fortunately, it is below the little contour line, so that will be my cut location, and I'll form the new metal to match as closely as I can.
I'll post up some pics as I go along, but it may be a week or two or three.
I got into mine this past weekend and used my grinder to find the good metal; fortunately, it is below the little contour line, so that will be my cut location, and I'll form the new metal to match as closely as I can.
I'll post up some pics as I go along, but it may be a week or two or three.
- Thread starter
- #11
sl33py said:
Thanks for the congrats!!
Before this I was a noob to all.
I tried to weld a straight bead as best as my welding abilities. Which is none before this. I did not tack or use bondo. I just keep laying on the beads of weld until I felt it was strong. I am sure I way over did it but It made me happy. Then I grinded all the welds and brushed a rust prevention liquid over the bare metal and welds. after that dried I used a rattle can primmer. I will soon buy some bed liner and coat the outside with it. I am also going to coat the insde of the fender and wheel wells.
I dont really care about the looks I just dont want it to rust on me..
I cant wait for my son to learn tool names.
Bruce W J
Bruce - exactly what i am looking to do i think...
any pics of the process? like i said - bodywork noob. I want it to look nice, but more importantly I don't want it to rust again! So you weld beads in...layering it to fill in hole? then grid down smooth. seems like a good way to fill it in. what products did you use to prevent rust from coming back?
any pics of the process? like i said - bodywork noob. I want it to look nice, but more importantly I don't want it to rust again! So you weld beads in...layering it to fill in hole? then grid down smooth. seems like a good way to fill it in. what products did you use to prevent rust from coming back?
- Thread starter
- #13
If you want it to look nice you can buy new pannels from MAF but they are about $300 per side. What I did looks ok but not professional at all. I am just stopping the rust from spreading. You can do what I did but tack it into place and use a filler to smooth out the imperfections. That would look better than what I did. I hate bondo repairs. I will use it to shape but not to fill with. If you choose to cut and weld your own sheet metal make sure you buy your metal from a metal supply and not home depot. Home Depot wants $20-25 for a 2x2 24 guage cold role steel, and i got a 4x5 20 guage cold role steel for $25.00 which is more than e-nuff.
Buy a grinder ( i got one for $30.00 at home depot)
Lincon Welder ( $250.00 but If i were you I would look around. I just trust Lincon welders)
Gloves, leather $5
Long sleave something to protect your arms (goodwill drop off Free)
Face sheild ($15.00)
Wire Brush, steel ($3.00)
Old hat
cutting disk for grinder ($2.50 ea)
Vice grips or some type of clamps
hammer, ball type
paint brush ( cheap one)
I used a liquid rust inhibiter from lows, I think it cost about $10.00. It was a liquid that you could apply with a paint brush. I grinded the welds applied the rust inhibiter( let dry) then I used a rattle cay of car spray primmer. I am not to worried about grinding the welds smooth becasue I am going to apply truck bead liner to the outside rear fenders to protect from everything including rust.
Buy a grinder ( i got one for $30.00 at home depot)
Lincon Welder ( $250.00 but If i were you I would look around. I just trust Lincon welders)
Gloves, leather $5
Long sleave something to protect your arms (goodwill drop off Free)
Face sheild ($15.00)
Wire Brush, steel ($3.00)
Old hat
cutting disk for grinder ($2.50 ea)
Vice grips or some type of clamps
hammer, ball type
paint brush ( cheap one)
I used a liquid rust inhibiter from lows, I think it cost about $10.00. It was a liquid that you could apply with a paint brush. I grinded the welds applied the rust inhibiter( let dry) then I used a rattle cay of car spray primmer. I am not to worried about grinding the welds smooth becasue I am going to apply truck bead liner to the outside rear fenders to protect from everything including rust.
- Thread starter
- #14
I need a good brand of bed liner any ideas? the do it yourself kind?
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 144
- Location
- wishing I was in Briland
- Website
- dizzy.ucns.uga.edu
One suggestion for those of you welding to fill in holes (from a total noob, so.....) look at Eastwood or similar--there are some clamps and jigs that are part copper, so the weld doesn't stick--might make your work easier.
batman said:
Durabak and spray it on. Quick and painless. You will spend 90% of your time doing the prep work. Buy a undercoat gun from Harbor frieght or eastwood, get a compressor and start spraying.
- Thread starter
- #17
TopJimmie said:
I looked at the undercoat gun from harbor Freight and will that gun spay evenly?
What kind of gun do the professionals use?
batman said:
I used a 15 dollar gun from Eastwood which is the same harbor freight sells. Sprayed very evenly. You could spend up to 100 buck for an undercoat gun from a professional store but you wouldn't get any better results. Just make sure your compressor can do between 40 to 60 psi. I bought a regulating guage that screwed inline at the gun so I could vary the pressure. 40 psi for a more textured look and 60 for a smoother finish. I mainly stayed in the 60 psi range. There are a lot of how to's if you search the web for sprayed durabak. Also Pirate4x4 has a few articles there. I also mixed 12oz of xylene into the durabak as they suggest to thin it down some. If you pm me your email I will send you a word file I kept of all of the text I found on the web relating to spraying durabak. Good luck
I had the exact same rust as batman and found an air-shear and body hammer kit to be extremely usefull.
- Thread starter
- #20
You can buy the body hammer kit from harbor freight.com or eastwood.com their about $70.00. I chose not to use one because I just want new metal and didn't care about the original curves. I want the cancer gone!