Rust Opinion (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 13, 2012
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Oklahoma City
Considering an 80 in the Virgina area that has been "treated" for rust by prior owner. Was able to get some before pictures and wanted comments from this forum. Please don't hold back.

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So i guess sealing it is better than doing nothing but it doesn't look like there was any rust removal happening just coating. That might help, but it also might hide continuation. If someone really went after the rust then there wouldn't be those bubbles there anymore. Also the bubbling near the holes etc suggests that there might be more bubbles internally to the frame rails. now they may have sealed that too. People have saved worse and some people have passed on better. Might depend a bit on what you are willing to do and how much of a project you will pick up.
 
All they did was slobber black paint or POR-15 on rust bubbles and dirt. They didn't clean anything, which means they did nothing except put lipstick on a pig.
 
All they did was slobber black paint or POR-15 on rust bubbles and dirt. They didn't clean anything, which means they did nothing except put lipstick on a pig.
Seems like it. Should the extent from the pictures scare me from a purchase?
 
Seems like it. Should the extent from the pictures scare me from a purchase?
There's nothing there that scares me, but I am from NW Iowa originally and am used to dealing with rust and stuck hardware. If you know how and are willing to deal with it (not pay someone else to deal with it), then get it as long as the price is right.

This should not be West Coast prices though.

The bottom looks close to my truck.

Then, once you get it, soak it in Fluid Film to let it start going to work inside the frame and on all hardware and underbody parts. Power Wash and/or steam clean it first.
 
From the pictures it doesn't seem totaled or dangerous. If you aren't going to get after the rust, it will get dangerous. rust work takes a good bit of time, your cost should reflect that. I've had worse vehicles when I lived in WV. Not treated vehicles fade VERY Fast. If the body doesn't have cancer and the price was right, then I wouldn't be afraid to fix it the right way... might even remove an axle or two to get everywhere.
 
This does not look too bad if the price is right. Get after everything with a power washer to get the bubbling open. Then just fluid film. It is a sham they went to all that work for what amounts to nothing.
 
From a Wisconsin point of view that's barely rust.

It depends on what you want out of the vehicle and what your tolerance is.
Remediating is not fun and short of a frame off, pretty hard to totally eliminate.
If you want a show truck or a long term investment, avoid any rust.
If you can tolerate it (short of frame or structural damage) remediate it and stay on top of it as much as possible. Be prepared for the negatives that go along with it (broken fasteners, etc).

I hate that I can't enjoy taking mine out in the snow, but it's a trade I make for trying to keep corrosion at bay.
 
this doesn't look bad at all, looks better than when i got mine. I personally think the 80's frame is pretty solid when it comes to rust.

As far as issues with nuts/bolts.. I had no issues with major bolts (suspension, etc!). They were easily removed as soon as you throw some heat on it to break the surface rust on them. The only broken bolts i dealt with are the real small ones holding the plastic bumper. The rear section definitely gets the worst salt treatment and those were far beyond saving. I replaced the rear with a 4x4labs bumper and was expecting to cut off a heavily rusted rear section. To my surprise, the section is still in very good condition other than some surface rust. Way better than i expected from 25yrs of salt.

like others mentioned, if you are looking for show quality, this isn't the right one.
 
Frame rust on these things is really not much of a concern. The body is going to rot through long before the frame is an issue. Check around the bottom of the rear wheel wells, this is where the body rust usually starts.
 
Only body rust is on the tailgate under windshield. Otherwise I'm great shape.
 
Looks good to me. Yes, it's a coverup job, but it looks like stage1 or stage2 rust at worst. If body is rust-free, I would call this a go.

Rear liftgate rust is common due to a bad window seal. You can get a junyard liftgate and fix without doing any bodywork. As for the undercarriage, I would just plan on a weekend with the wirewheel and needle scaler to clean up some of the bubbled areas and then re-spray with your rust inhibitor and spray paint of choice.
 
As said, as long as there's no body rust, I'd take it. Doesn't look too bad at all.
 
That's first world rust to say the least. Got to ask yourself, are you going to use it or park in a marble garage with undercarriage mirrors?
 
As an Arizonan, this would scare me. The sweet bliss of wrenching on a totally rust-free rig is worth the price if you can find one.
 

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