RUST BULLET or POR15??? Help

[Roberto]

Getting ready to start painting my frame and undercarriage parts, I am not sure what to use between these two products, I plan on having frame sandblasted and will do a topcoat of Satin black over whatever I choose? any suggestions?

Rob

 

[my64fj40]

You can't really go wrong with either. Both are excellent paints. The POR15 is probably going to be a little more labor intensive and POR15 also likes a more rough surface, so if you plan on sandblasting the Rust Bullet may work out better for ya.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I recently struggled with this same question and finally went with the POR15 for my axles, hubs and miscellaneous steering parts. I am very very impressed. You do need to follow their advice/instructions. I did not use their degreaser but did use their metal ready product (dilute phosphoric acid). I put on 2 coats of POR15 about 2 hours apart (humiditiy and temps were high so it cured fast) and then followed up with a coat of their Chassis Black topcoat (again about 2 hours after the second coat of POR 15).

The reason I finally chose POR15 was the impression (from comments that I had read) that it was very self levelling whereas the Rust Bullet wasn't that self levelling and I wanted to brush it on. If you're spraying then I don't think that will be a consideration (or if you don't care about seeing brush marks). The brushed on POR15 looked like it was sprayed on when I was finished. Just don't buy their brushes, they're crap. Also don't invest in expensive brushes as you they need to be disposable. You will need a different brush with each coat.

 

[cleanpool2]

rust bullet

I have used por 15, you have to follow directions and choose the right type for what you want. I am now going to try rust bullet but i am looking to see who carries it in NC. Anyone know.?
I know I can order it online, but rather have a local source.
I am in Boone, Nc.

 

[Roberto]

thanks fellas, I went ahead and bought the rust bullet and will try it out and will post how it worked out, I was told to use the sponge brushes for they wont leave any brush hairs in the paint? after the 2 coats I plan on ruffering it up little and topcoat with satin black paint

Thanks
Rob

 

[cleanpool2]

where did you find it? local or internet?
and will the sponge brushes melt with rust bullet?
I know they do on por 15. #5 plastic will not melt for containers in to put in in for using just the amount you want for the project.

 

[76FJ40]

Rust Bullet is a little cheaper from Summit Racing.

 

[Spike Strip]

I've used rust bullet, por 15, zero rust, chassis saver, and Rust Tough.

I have to say the easiest to use was chassis saver, by magnet paints. Also very tough.

All except Rust Tough are MCU's (moisture cured urethane) All were tough. Toughest was Rust Bullet, applied with two Alum undercoats, and one satin black top coat, but the finish was not so great. I brushed it on my frame and firewall and I've always gotten bubbles from the Alum undercoat. Rust Bullet address the issue somewhat in their FAQ. You might have better results with spraying or using the foam brushes.

All were thoroughly degreased and I used "metal prep" or other Phos agent.

I base my opinion of "toughness" on how difficult it was to remove (wire brush) on some parts I over-painted.

It really doesn't matter, I found, which one you use. Frankly, if I were doing it again, I'd just use a bunch of this:

Krylon: Products:

Cheap. Works great. Easy touch up (rattle cans at Autozone) ...

 

[cruiser_guy]

I've been using Rust Bullit and opening the can again after it was closed for a while (a year or so) was not easy!! I ended up needing a second can as the first can was destroyed in the opening process (I've opened lots of paint cans in my life and that was by far the toughest one to open). That is some sticky, tough paint when cured!!

 

[my64fj40]

I've been using Rust Bullit and opening the can again after it was closed for a while (a year or so) was not easy!! I ended up needing a second can as the first can was destroyed in the opening process (I've opened lots of paint cans in my life and that was by far the toughest one to open). That is some sticky, tough paint when cured!!

Been there and done that with por15. Now I always take a screwdriver and run a rag around the lip before putting the lid back on.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Been there and done that with por15. Now I always take a screwdriver and run a rag around the lip before putting the lid back on.

Clean the lip but then loosely cover the top of the can with saran wrap before putting the lid on. You will have no problem removing the lid later but you will have to use a fresh piece of saran wrap each time you open it. I keep a small roll in my POR15 box.