The hole that this highlighted bolt should be in?
runs hard after trollhole carb and dizzy install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter WarToy2u
- Start date
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That hole is for bolt that goes into the exhaust manifold.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Check the connection between the base of the new carb and the intake manifold. Maybe the gasket got peeled halfway off or there is some crap between the two creating a leak.
Maybe you cracked the intake manifold?
Do those carbs have a fuel cut solenoid?
I'm guessing you are desmogged. Is everything plugged appropriately?
Seems like a vacuum leak to me as well. Spray around with some starter fluid and see if the idle picks up anywhere.
Maybe you cracked the intake manifold?
Do those carbs have a fuel cut solenoid?
I'm guessing you are desmogged. Is everything plugged appropriately?
Seems like a vacuum leak to me as well. Spray around with some starter fluid and see if the idle picks up anywhere.
Bad Coco
GOLD Star
Not sure which elec dizzy you have, but I can say mine was having similar issues. I had the DUI and after 2 years, it was running very much like you are describing. I took it to a local shop (Steve Warden's Automotive) who is extremely knowledgable on 40's and he hooked it up to "the" machine. Found that the total resistance was way over-spec and found that the dizzy was "sucking down" at higher RPM's. I can only imagine this was because of cheap material being used for the gear?
Replaced it with an FJ60 dizzy per many people here's recommendation including Georg and all I can say is it runs incredible now and my fuel milage has greatly improved.
Good luck! Eric
Replaced it with an FJ60 dizzy per many people here's recommendation including Georg and all I can say is it runs incredible now and my fuel milage has greatly improved.
Good luck! Eric
- Thread starter
- #25
I've checked and re-checked and re-checked everything. Had a buddy come over and go over it with me just in case I was missing something. Everything is hooked up correctly, no vacuum leaks, dizzy working how it should. My buddy said he thinks that it has something to do with the accelerator pump. I'm not sure what to do next.
Does the accelerator pump a good squirt of gas into the carb when you push on the throttle? If not try this:
Try some light oil on the accelerator pump. The pump itself is just a leather wrapped piston. It relies on the leather swelling and making a seal in the bore. Sometimes they do not seal at initial startup, maybe it is the new gas blends.
Some light oil, or even a few drops of motor oil may help. Pull one of the jet acces bolts and drain the float bowl. Pump the pump a few times to drain the pump bore. You can gently push the rubber boot over on the top of the accelerator pump shaft sticking out the top of the carb. Drop some oil down the bore and let it sit for several hours.
Later crank the engine over and let the carb refill and then see if the gas squirt stream is stronger. That is how I cured poor accelerator pump performance in the past and a sputtery engine upon acceleration. It seems once the leather has gotten a good swell on, it will work from then on.
Try some light oil on the accelerator pump. The pump itself is just a leather wrapped piston. It relies on the leather swelling and making a seal in the bore. Sometimes they do not seal at initial startup, maybe it is the new gas blends.
Some light oil, or even a few drops of motor oil may help. Pull one of the jet acces bolts and drain the float bowl. Pump the pump a few times to drain the pump bore. You can gently push the rubber boot over on the top of the accelerator pump shaft sticking out the top of the carb. Drop some oil down the bore and let it sit for several hours.
Later crank the engine over and let the carb refill and then see if the gas squirt stream is stronger. That is how I cured poor accelerator pump performance in the past and a sputtery engine upon acceleration. It seems once the leather has gotten a good swell on, it will work from then on.
- Thread starter
- #28
Update: Alright, I haven't been able to get a hold of Marshall so I pulled the troll hole carb off and put the weber back on to see if it was the dizzy. After putting the weber on and tuning it in, it runs fantastic.. I need to keep the weber on so I can drive it to work, and it will be nice to have 2 vehicles again. Thanks for all the advise, it was clearly something to do with the carb 
keep CALLING marshall until you get to him. his contact page said he was ok with squeaky wheels. he disappeared for a week about 2 weeks ago and then the next monday morning all my PMs and emails were answered. he will bend over backwards to make things right. there are a handful of threads where someone gets a dud carb or dizzy and he takes care of it. the last thing you want on your 40 is a weber i would imagine.
^ditto. Mine ran great for a short while and then I lost the idle circuit. When I opened it up, there were aluminum shavings in the bowl. I think he's had some occasional manufacturing quality issues, but I found his customer service to be excellent and you can't beat the price.
