Running wires through the firewall (2 Viewers)

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Hey everyone. I've tried searching with no real definitive answer.

How is everyone running wires through their firewall for lights, accessories, etc. I anticipate having to run at least 10, 16gauge wires through my wall for roof lights and a switch panel I'm making.

Do you guys holesaw the firewall and add a rubber boot or cut a large enough hole through the existing boot on the driverside?

HELP!!!

Thanks!
 
Instead of switching the high current sources directly from the cabin, use relays placed under the hood and use the switches to activate the relays, you can then use smaller gauge cables (ideally protected by a fuse before entering the cabin through the firewall) Much easier and much safer.
I used the existing rubber boot in passenger side.
 
Instead of switching the high current sources directly from the cabin, use relays placed under the hood and use the switches to activate the relays, you can then use smaller gauge cables (ideally protected by a fuse before entering the cabin through the firewall) Much easier and much safer.
I used the existing rubber boot in passenger side.

Thanks, that's the plan. Im installing 5 switches but only have use for 2 currently. I'm going to wire them all to the relays though so I don't have to go back and do it later. So I have 5 wires coming from the switches through the firewall into the enginebay where the relays and fuses box are located. For switch power, I plan on tapping one of the fuses by the driver foot fusebox.

From the relays, I need to run a few of the high currnet wires back into the cab for the roof lights. Im going to pull back the headliner to see if I can expose one of the unused roof rack bolt holes then run the wires through there for the roof lights.

So all in all, I'll need at least 7 (5 low current, 2 high) to make it through the wall.
 
I too went in through the boot on the passenger side behind the glove box and it was pretty straightforward. I haven't done it myself yet but when I run power to the rear for drawers and lights I believe I found a decent route through the underside of the truck rather than tearing through the interior... just an idea.
 
I too went in through the boot on the passenger side behind the glove box and it was pretty straightforward. I haven't done it myself yet but when I run power to the rear for drawers and lights I believe I found a decent route through the underside of the truck rather than tearing through the interior... just an idea.

how many wires did you get through the passenger side boot? I like the underside idea but also don't want a bunch of wires running under the truck to the back, then back towards the middle of the interior, then around the roof. Seems more simplistic to go straight into the cab through the wall then up the B pillar to the roof rack bolt hole.
 
I pretty recently started a thread on this. I drilled a whole didn't want to slaughter the stock boot and had too many wired to feed. Found the perfect spot.

You have a handful of choices for aftermarket boots. My final product looks very clean and water tight.

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Ahh yeah I got ya, my plan for running power under the truck to the back would be one primary and solely for powering a panel for everything around the drawers then going up the rear pillar to get to the roof (without using abandoned roof rack holes). I ran a coax and two 10ga and there was still room for a few more, it would just be a matter of fishing them through.
 
The bit I used made it cake and exact measurement I needed. Not at home to take pics but I can post one later. I bought both of these boots to see which one I liked better:

Bit:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A...g_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2D5ZZWVVMWRM3AG51CJJ

Boots:

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KU20...6461567&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=firewall+boot

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Perform...6461567&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=firewall+boot

I recommend the Jegs boot it mounts on the outside. The other boots lip is not big enough to fit through the firewall so it creases a bit. Not bad both will work but recommend the jegs.
 
How do you plan on getting to the roof? Doesn't seem that there are many options besides drilling a hole or using a rack bolt hole[/QUOT
How do you plan on getting to the roof? Doesn't seem that there are many options besides drilling a hole or using a rack bolt hole


Easy to get to the roof no drilling required did that too. Use one of the unused mount bolt holes.

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That's what I plan. I'm hoping on not having to pull back the entire headliner through. Maybe fish the wire from the top down and grab it where the headliner meets the lower b pillar panel.
 
How do you plan on getting to the roof? Doesn't seem that there are many options besides drilling a hole or using a rack bolt hole

Well my plan originally was to run it up next to the hatch (lazy moment) but after seeing @savirc pictures I think I will run up that way especially since I will already have that part of the interior opened up anyway.
 
Yeah, I have my awning and rent power wires running up the hatch through the hatch wire boot, but it doesn't look good when you open the hatch. @savirc method looks way cleaner.
 
You can use the roof trim to hide the wires too

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Switch panel and action!

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I love blue sea systems products there of highest quality I had to rig it up a bit to fit in that tight spot but it does look beautiful and stock. Very sturdy too.

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I'm doing a similar switch panel. That looks really good! I'm also doing roof lights exactly like that. Pretty much copying you.

Sooo where did you run all those wires through the firewall and to the roof?
 

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