RTH: Transfer Case Fill Housing Crack!!!

[GeoRoss]

"HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!"



I was checking the fluids and greasing stuff for a summer road trip to Colorado with the family. While torquing down the fill bolt (27 ft-llbs) for the transfer case it got very easy all of a sudden, just sort of let go. Well now I have a shiny new crack in the fill hole housing.

Leaking abit of gear oil now too.

The way I see it there are not a whole bunch of options.

1. I can go the expensive route and try to replace that part of the housing with one from a dead TC. What would I call that part of the TC housing? This would require dropping the TC and pretty much rebuilding it while it is apart.

2. I could take it off and try to have it TIG welded. This would require also would require dropping the TC and pretty much rebuilding it just like above.

3. I could drain the fluid, clean the area and try to JB weld it. Due to how far the crack goes, I'm not sure this would be anything other than a temporary fix. Good enough to take the 80 to Colorado? I'd likely have the 24mm socket in my pocket checking levels constantly and nervous the whole trip.

I'm pretty bummed as we are due in Durango Monday afternoon/evening to ride the Silverton-Durango train on Tuesday. I just don't think I have the time to fix this quickly enough. We were also planning on doing alot of back country exploration. Looks like this is out as we will have to take the real mall cruiser (Sienna).

I guess I am looking for a miracle or some sort of other vacation salvaging options.

I hate my torque wrench too.

 

[surfpig]

It's only the fill hole, right? The oil level is only supposed to go up to the nut. So it's kind of an over fill protection measure.

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Like SurfPig said, that plug is at the top of the oil level, so it is getting wet only from the overfill volume, or just the oil splash when the gears are turning inside the case. If the breather is working on the top of the case, there is no pressure inside, so what you see is just migrating due to gravity. I would JB Weld it in a hot tick. You may want to drain about 1" of gear oil down, wipe clean the area,with brake cleaner, and then dope it up. Be sure to keep it out of the threads in the hole. Top it off, and go. Just watch it and top of as necessary, but I bet you don't loose much at all. I have seen a lot worse leaks on transfer case output shaft seals, and people were still driving them right down the hiway, no problem. BTDT!!

On the other hand, I would think a good welder could TIG that right on the rig. You've got to have a welding buddy around Tuscon somewhere. Or, if your coming thru Phoenix, see if you can hook up with JustWeldIt on Copperstate. Rumor has it he's pretty good. John

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Clean it really goos and use some JB Weld on it. You will be g2g.

 

[GeoRoss]

Will using JB Weld affect welding it up as a permanent fix later on?

 

[inkpot]

Will using JB Weld affect welding it up as a permanent fix later on?

I am prettys sure it will go away real fast if you hit it with a welder. But, of course, if it doesn't go away, then it IS the permanent fix. Ta Da!! I have seen JB WEld work great, permantely, on diff covers, so it should last as long as you want it to. Good Luck! John P. S. Enjoy the train, it's a blast.

 

[john_eckels]

It may be worth trying a small hose clamp aound the fill housing. It may be able to squish the crack back together.

 

[inkpot]

It may be worth trying a small hose clamp aound the fill housing. It may be able to squish the crack back together.

Oh yea, I like that idea. Might even be able to do it right after you stuff a bit of JB Weld into the crack, then zip a clamp on ASAP. Oil the threads of the plug so they don's stick to the JB Weld. John

 

[Ebag333]

X3 on the JB weld.

If you get a little inside the threads, run a tap through to clean them up a bit. If you have to run a tap through, I'd drain and refill just to be on the safe side.

 

[john_eckels]

I am concerned that you may not be able to get the plug in tight enough with the crack in the housing. There is also the possibility of cracking the JB-Weld when tightening the fill plug.

 

[Ebag333]

I am concerned that you may not be able to get the plug in tight enough with the crack in the housing. There is also the possibility of cracking the JB-Weld when tightening the fill plug.

If you prep the area well enough, should be fine.

If it's a serious concern, get it welded. You can always run a tap through to clean up any threads that the weld bleeds through.

 

[Koffer]

Cruise4070 had this happen to his BJ70 when we changed the transfercase oil . we just cleaned it real good and gooped it up with some dark gray RTV put a little on the treads and just snugged it up a little so it didnt leak and when the RTV dried it wouldnt backout or leak . Its been this way for at least 4 years now .

 

[Bogo]

Cruise4070 had this happen to his BJ70 when we changed the transfercase oil . we just cleaned it real good and gooped it up with some dark gray RTV put a little on the treads and just snugged it up a little so it didnt leak and when the RTV dried it wouldnt backout or leak . Its been this way for at least 4 years now .

I like this option. If it fails in route, it can be redon, or fix it by another method.


What I'm trying to figure out is why it cracked rather than stripping the threads? Are the casting walls that tin there? The other possibility is a casting flaw.

 

[GeoRoss]

No clue why it fail like it did. Sort of sucks, but what ya going to do. I JB welded it and will hope for the best till I can get a better idea on what to do.

I tried the hose clamp idea, but then I couldn't get the plug to thread on there easily.

 

[Bogo]

I tried the hose clamp idea, but then I couldn't get the plug to thread on there easily.

Then put the clamp on after the plug.

 

[Bogo]

BTW, heavy duty 1/4" wide hose clamps are available. Might take a couple of them to encircle the opening as I don't think they are made that large in diameter. They are often used on sprayers so check a farm supply store.

 

[wxm]

Cruise4070 had this happen to his BJ70 when we changed the transfercase oil . we just cleaned it real good and gooped it up with some dark gray RTV put a little on the treads and just snugged it up a little so it didnt leak and when the RTV dried it wouldnt backout or leak . Its been this way for at least 4 years now .

I like that too.

BTW, I always think 27 ft-lbs is a bit too much for the transfer case. I have been using 20 ft-lbs (and 27 ft-lb for front/rear differencial), and it seems to be fine. Just my $0.02.

 

[little_joe]

In addition to the above, I'd suggest Permatex Hylomar for the drain plug/threads. Having owned a Land Rover, this stuff is indispensable and highly effective if you have to open it up on occasion...........

 

[80t0ylc]

No clue why it fail like it did. Sort of sucks, but what ya going to do. I JB welded it and will hope for the best till I can get a better idea on what to do.

I tried the hose clamp idea, but then I couldn't get the plug to thread on there easily.

Man, that does suck - bigtime! Being a fellow '94 owner, I hope that's not common for our batch of T/C cases. But, with all the responses and advice, MUD is sure a great resource, ain't it!?!

 

[surfpig]

It's only the fill hole, right? The oil level is only supposed to go up to the nut. So it's kind of an over fill protection measure.

You 80 Series people...



Wine cork.

I'm sure you'll have a good Sauvignon Blanc in the cooler...



Maybe a Chardonnay might go better with diff fluid...