RTH question......Brake Booster ABS light and Warning (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

What makes you think it's not just the pump and you could just have that rebuilt for a a few hundred bucks right?

Possibly.

But wouldn't know that unless I pulled the whole unit, disassembled the motor, checked the wiring leads, still wouldn't know the condition of the accumulator. Don't want to go back in there. This is my Wife's DD, its coming up on the holiday season, I want assurance that the brake system will be safe and frankly....could give a damn about the money.

Looking for easy, safe, and one time dive into this thing (short of replacing the entire unit....which I don't think it needs).

That's what is going to work for ME.....I believe. Others are free to diagnose and repair as they see fit.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Only the motor can be rebuilt.

Sorry I meant pump motor

 

[flintknapper]

Sorry I meant pump motor

That's what I understood your post to have meant. But good to clarify for posterity sake.

 

[flintknapper]

Alright guys how do you remove the charcoal canister (99 model). I have removed the 3 bolts that I can see but the unit acts like it is still attached to the fender well. Does is just lift out of the bracket or what?

 

[Skidoo]

Answered this in a PM to OP, but here it is for others.
Of the three bolts only the one closest needs to be removed, then it can slide up out of bracket.
See this post for more details.
Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

 

[flintknapper]

So.....digging into this a little today. Got the unit out of the truck (under dash part NOT fun).

Got the fluid reservoir off and cleaned up. Have some new grommets ordered for when I reinstall it.

Pulled the piston from the Master Cylinder Bore and all looked good there, have a new kit ready to go back in.

But now for the fun part, connection at the ABS UNIT is terribly corroded. I was a little shocked to see this. Not sure how I am going to get these off of there since you can't even tell they are/were screws.

 

[flintknapper]

As feared.....the screws would not budge this morning after soaking overnight with penetrating oil. After eventual removal it was not hard to see why.

Ended up grinding the heads down so I could remove material slowly and see what I was doing.

Once at the wire connection (brass colored).... I finished up with a file (for better control).

After filing flush....I drilled a small hole in the top of each remaining screw shank so I would have something to 'grab' when using a small punch to tap out the nuts (under the contact posts).

Then cleaned up the contact posts. Used a small needle file to do the bottom side.

 

[reznunt]

My new booster pump and accumulator assembly ran about 27-28 seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON (tested it four times), which is shorter than the 40 seconds that everyone usually mentions. Paul confirmed that he gets about 27 seconds with new assemblies. Just a heads up for when you get to timing it.

Also, I packed the ABS wire boot with dielectric grease upon reassembly to help prevent corrosion.

 

[flintknapper]

Oh boy, why would you not get Techstream instead? Especially since (IIRC) Techstream allows you to perform the ABS "bleed" routine (right?).

Scan Tool showed up today.

Spent about 1-1/2 hours trying to update the software and register the thing online. Insane procedure to do so. (Some Degrees Required) kind of thing....or you need to be a computer programmer.

Finally got it all done. Will see how it pans out once I get the vehicle all put back together. Should have parts by Thursday. Wifey is already wanting Her Lexus back. Doesn't like driving the 80 series.....go figure.

 

[flintknapper]

My new booster pump and accumulator assembly ran about 27-28 seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON (tested it four times), which is shorter than the 40 seconds that everyone usually mentions. Paul confirmed that he gets about 27 seconds with new assemblies. Just a heads up for when you get to timing it.

Also, I packed the ABS wire boot with dielectric grease upon reassembly to help prevent corrosion.

Appreciate the info. Will definitely pack the boot. Not wanting to go through this again.

 

[gil12]

I covered the terminals with several layers of liquid electrical tape instead of grease. Is it better? Only time will tell. But I liked the result at the time.
Amazon product ASIN B000FPAN2K

 

[flintknapper]

I covered the terminals with several layers of liquid electrical tape instead of grease. Is it better? Only time will tell. But I liked the result at the time.
Amazon product ASIN B000FPAN2K

I have some of that on my shelf. Have used it before on other projects. I can tell you that when it 'cures' it gets quite hard and 'permanent' so just be sure if you use it.....you won't need to access anything under it again. It's a pain to remove. But it should keep moisture and other contaminants from affecting the joint.

 

[flintknapper]

While waiting on my new booster pump motor and accumulator to arrive, I was curious to see what the inside of the old motor looked like.

Man....was I surprised to see so much carbon inside of it. I literally poured carbon particles out of it.

Brushes were completely gone:

Windings and Bearings were still in great shape:

Gasket and Wiring Harness were still very good:

I would think motors in rebuild-able condition would have some 'core' value but not sure who would buy them.

Just a 'new' wire lead is crazy expensive.

 

[uHu]

...
View attachment 2534610
Windings and Bearings were still in great shape.
Gasket and Wiring Harness were still very good.
I would think motors in rebuild-able condition would have some 'core' value but not sure who would buy them.

You rebuild it and keep it as a spare. How many years til you have covered another 200 k?

Has there been brake fluid attacking those brushes and terminals? If yes, because of overfilling or leaking grommets?

 

[flintknapper]

You rebuild it and keep it as a spare. How many years til you have covered another 200 k?

Has there been brake fluid attacking those brushes and terminals? If yes, because of overfilling or leaking grommets?

It would be another 10 years or more before we put another 200K on it. See NO evidence of brake fluid ever having leaked anywhere.

 

[flintknapper]

Got my new unit in today (pump motor and accumlator) but naturally my reservoir grommets aren't here yet.

Went ahead and mounted the new unit to the ABS Body, transferred the Vibration Isolators over, attached the wires and covered them liberally with Dielectric grease. So a little more progress.

Thankfully, new screws and nuts come with it.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Got my new unit in today (pump motor and accumlator) but naturally my reservoir grommets aren't here yet.

Went ahead and mounted the new unit to the ABS Body, transferred the Vibration Isolators over, attached the wires and covered them liberally with Dielectric grease. So a little more progress.

View attachment 2536028

View attachment 2536029

View attachment 2536032


Thankfully, new screws and nuts come with it.






View attachment 2536031

View attachment 2536035

How much that motor + accumulator run you?

 

[94SRUNNER]

How much that motor + accumulator run you?

$$$$

 

[flintknapper]

How much that motor + accumulator run you?

$792.00 to my door from McGeorge Toyota.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

$792.00 to my door from McGeorge Toyota.

Niiice. That almost makes the $300 motor rebuild route seem almost not worth it, if one had to pick between the two options.