RTH question......Brake Booster ABS light and Warning

[thebeedeegee]

Niiice. That almost makes the $300 motor rebuild route seem almost not worth it, if one had to pick between the two options.

As a poor, speak fo yourself!

With my luck it would end up being the accumulator after I paid to rebuild the motor though lol.

 

[flintknapper]

As a poor, speak fo yourself!

With my luck it would end up being the accumulator after I paid to rebuild the motor though lol.

Actually that was a consideration of mine as well. And even IF mine is still good, how long would it last? For 'me' its worth the peace of mind to just replace it as a unit. Still don't know if the ABS unit itself is good, won't know that until I get it all back together. So it's still a gamble even the way I approached it. We will see.

But yes, finances and circumstance will be different for different folks and must be factored in. I am fortunate to be able to afford to replace whatever needs to be replaced....but I don't replace things willy-nilly.

 

[flintknapper]

Finally getting back to this.

After a complete fiasco with ToyotaPartsDeal and their HORRIBLE Customer Service, I finally gave up and just ordered from PartSouq. Got that order in 4 days after 2 weeks of going back and forth with TPD (complete waste of time, absolutely unhelpful and indifferent). Will NEVER deal with ToyotaPartsDeal again, EVER!

Now that I have my Reservoir Grommets in hand (Thank You PartSouq for your professional service), I can reassemble my Booster and see if we have solved the issue there.

 

[flintknapper]

Everything back in. Now for the brake bleeding. Hope that goes well.

 

[flintknapper]

Brakes are bled. Might do them again later in the week...but they feel good right now.

Last thing to do was to clear any ABS codes, scan for any new (there were none) and then do full system scan (takes awhile but all systems 100%)

 

[cruiserpatch]

'99 LX470 ~245K miles

I've been experiencing the ABS light and Warning sound come on, then go off. It occurs when the pump is running and the brake pedal is depressed.

My battery is running at about 12-13V and I will replace it first just in case it's that simple.

This write up has helped a lot but I wondered, where can I find Paul's famed "dissertation?"

Thanks!

Patch

 

[zhloea]

Oh boy, why would you not get Techstream instead? Especially since (IIRC) Techstream allows you to perform the ABS "bleed" routine (right?).

Hi, I just purchased the Techstream cable/software kit, the reason is I got 52 seconds timing on my booster pump so I want to do some test and flush/bleed. So, can this Techstream help me to know the health status of my brake system?

I got no warning sound and no light on, I just worry about that 52 seconds timing issue.

 

[flintknapper]

Hi, I just purchased the Techstream cable/software kit, the reason is I got 52 seconds timing on my booster pump so I want to do some test and flush/bleed. So, can this Techstream help me to know the health status of my brake system?

I got no warning sound and no light on, I just worry about that 52 seconds timing issue.

Techstream (or any other good scanner) can detect and provide any stored or impending trouble codes, so in that respect it is helpful.

However, the FSM provides for a user 'test' of the system wherein they specify a 'time' for the system to pump and refill the accumulator.

Your system test is somewhat outside of this parameter (40 seconds is specified) since yours is going 52 seconds. That doesn't mean you will suddenly have no brakes or other issues (hence no warning buzzer). But it IS something you'll want to look into.

There would be only a few reasons for the system not to build volume and pressure in the allotted time.

In no particular order:

1. Air in the system
2. Pump not working at designed capacity (weak or not receiving full voltage)
3. Accumulator not holding pressure
4. Severely degraded/contaminated fluid has caused damage to internal passages of system components

 

[zhloea]

Techstream (or any other good scanner) can detect and provide any stored or impending trouble codes, so in that respect it is helpful.

However, the FSM provides for a user 'test' of the system wherein they specify a 'time' for the system to pump and refill the accumulator.

Your system test is somewhat outside of this parameter (40 seconds is specified) since yours is going 52 seconds. That doesn't mean you will suddenly have no brakes or other issues (hence no warning buzzer). But it IS something you'll want to look into.

There would be only a few reasons for the system not to build volume and pressure in the allotted time.

In no particular order:

1. Air in the system
2. Pump not working at designed capacity (weak or not receiving full voltage)
3. Accumulator not holding pressure
4. Severely degraded/contaminated fluid has caused damage to internal passages of system components

I will do a full flush soon, if not resolve the problem I will change the whole unit asap. The brake fluid is in tea color, and I assume it is there for a very very long time~ I don't think change part of the unit is fit for me based on my limited experience and knowledge of car repairing. But following you guys suggestions so far, my lc100 improved tremendously, the driving feeling is phenomenon now, thanks!

 

[zhloea]

Techstream (or any other good scanner) can detect and provide any stored or impending trouble codes, so in that respect it is helpful.

However, the FSM provides for a user 'test' of the system wherein they specify a 'time' for the system to pump and refill the accumulator.

Your system test is somewhat outside of this parameter (40 seconds is specified) since yours is going 52 seconds. That doesn't mean you will suddenly have no brakes or other issues (hence no warning buzzer). But it IS something you'll want to look into.

There would be only a few reasons for the system not to build volume and pressure in the allotted time.

In no particular order:

1. Air in the system
2. Pump not working at designed capacity (weak or not receiving full voltage)
3. Accumulator not holding pressure
4. Severely degraded/contaminated fluid has caused damage to internal passages of system components

And I forgot to mention that, the pump charging is also a little weird, it always charges 4 times to complete the charging. The First 3 times are about 8 seconds each, then the last time will be around 30 seconds, then it becomes quite/fully charged. There are significant stops between the chargings.

 

[flintknapper]

And I forgot to mention that, the pump charging is also a little weird, it always charges 4 times to complete the charging. The First 3 times are about 8 seconds each, then the last time will be around 30 seconds, then it becomes quite/fully charged. There are significant stops between the chargings.

I don't know if it is symptomatic or not....but mine did that shortly before my pump motor failed.

After installing a new motor and accumulator, it runs continuously until filled. Maybe others can weigh in on this?

 

[thebeedeegee]

I don't know if it is symptomatic or not....but mine did that shortly before my pump motor failed.

After installing a new motor and accumulator, it runs continuously until filled. Maybe others can weigh in on this?

My LX has 190k miles and that pump is original as far as I know. When I crank it and hit the brakes it runs about about 10-15 seconds or so. Just about everytime I hit the brakes in traffic it will turn on for about 2-3 seconds. I can only hear it whirring if the music is off.

 

[flintknapper]

My LX has 190k miles and that pump is original as far as I know. When I crank it and hit the brakes it runs about about 10-15 seconds or so. Just about everytime I hit the brakes in traffic it will turn on for about 2-3 seconds. I can only hear it whirring if the music is off.

That is normal. But during a 'test' it shouldn't start and stop.

 

[luzarj]

I have replaced the abs booster and pump after it falied (226k miles - warning tone came on). Prior to the failure, I was getting the Brake, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and ABS lights would come on when the car would get wet (steady rain and car wash), and would clear a day later when the car dried.
Now after replacing the booster and pump unit, these lights will still come on for a period when the car gets wet. Everything is working properly with the braking. Lights clear after the car dries.

Any idea what is causing this?

 

[cruiserpatch]

I have replaced the abs booster and pump after it falied (226k miles - warning tone came on). Prior to the failure, I was getting the Brake, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and ABS lights would come on when the car would get wet (steady rain and car wash), and would clear a day later when the car dried.
Now after replacing the booster and pump unit, these lights will still come on for a period when the car gets wet. Everything is working properly with the braking. Lights clear after the car dries.

Any idea what is causing this?

Sounds more like a water leak than anything related to the booster. Check sunroof drains, windshield moulding, roof rack bolt holes (if aftermarket rack)