RTH BOISE: Hub separation @ speed

[AMMO]

Looks like outer wheel bearings wiped out, and welded themselves to the spindle. When that seized up, the superheated axle stub snapped from the drive plate suddenly stopping with the hub. It likely would not have normally snapped (axle), but about then it was the temperature of the surface of the sun. Then with the axle no longer keeping the drive plate centered, it got off center and literally ripped the hub off the disc. With nothing holding it the tire/remains of the hub left the building, the disc hit the ground, shattered and jammed in the caliper. The wheel must have hit the caliper on the way off as well.

Looks like it was on fire briefly as the greases cooked off? Wow - serous carnage. The entire assembly including the rotor was wildly hot and it looks like the rotor melted into the pavement a bit.

Where's he going? Where's he now? Hard to help with no knowledge.

DougM

Doug,

Here is something to add, these are not OME Birfs... I don't blame anyone but myself as they are not intended for HWY travel... I just never expected this type of failure.

Yes there was a grease fire, both on the hub and wheel as it rolled by me, and on what remains on the axel... the white dust is from my extinguisher.

-Matt

 

[Ebag333]

Matt, glad you're okay.

If this helps, here's a list of parts CDan wrote out a while ago from an 80 that had a similar failure.

Oh, I saw an 80 one time that lost the RF wheel whilst on the freeway. (after it came into the shop on a hook).

Front axle housing
RH knuckle
RH spindle
RH caliper
RH steering arm
Drive flange
RH inner axle shaft
RH Birf
Wheel
Tire
Studs
Nuts
Hub
RH fender
RH fender flare
RF door shell
RR door shell
RR door flare.
Driver's seat cushion cover...

AND a hefty labor/bodyshop bill

Looks like you got lucky and not much (any?) body damage, but there's a list to get you started.

 

[gnob]

AMMO i have some 80 series outers, hub spindle etc. dont know the year but it came off an ABS truck.
hit me up when you get to the area.

 

[AMMO]

Matt, glad you're okay.

If this helps, here's a list of parts CDan wrote out a while ago from an 80 that had a similar failure.




Looks like you got lucky and not much (any?) body damage, but there's a list to get you started.

E,

Thanks a lot man that helps. I cant believe I didn't have more damage... That tire will for sure become the spare, you can see the wear on the inside, not that bad. Right after it happened a guy in a Pick Up Truck pulled over and said he saw the tire leaning inwards. Looking at my front coil I have some wear where the paint is gone, so the tire must have rubbed the coil. But over all it was a clean break, no body damage, no wheel damage, just a clean snap. Must have been thanks to the quick jerk to the left and then to the right... And then BAM, I was sitting 4' lower on the drivers side watching my flaming hub and wheel fly away. Next reaction was both arms locked and clutching the wheel, both feet on the break and just pointed it straight... I checked my mirrors and thank goodness no semi behind or on the side of me. Just a pick up a few hundred yards back. I remember thinking why are my breaks not working... HA cause i only had one front brake! Some how i just rode it out and the road bent to the left, I went straight and right onto the shoulder. Didn't even put the pass side in the grass. If i had over shot I would have been down in a ditch, another way to roll... I came to rest, checked my mirrors and jumped out to see my what was left axel on a nice small grease fire. Jumped in front of the truck as cars and trucks flew by. The when it was all clear I grabbed one of my two extinguishers from under and on the sides of the back seats, pulled the pin and shot. Collected my thoughts and the guy in the pick up pulled up and offered to help. we drove about 500 yards down the road and my 37" tire and steal wheel lay in the center divider. Lifted that beast into the back of hit pick up and drove it back. Then started the calls and texts... I was about 80 miles outside of Boise where I was to stop for the night and meet my co worker. AAA was on sight in 30 mins... Glad I have the Plus, free tow to Boise where I left it on a buddies horse farm.

Thanks again everyone. I'm very lucky, and very thankful to all the members on here who have offered help. This is what I love about this community, and to think we often get bad wraps....

-Matt

 

[AMMO]

AMMO i have some 80 series outers, hub spindle etc. dont know the year but it came off an ABS truck.
hit me up when you get to the area.

Thanks Gnob,

I will deff hit you up when I get home...

-Matt

 

[AMMO]

Ok, so now the question to the board.... Did I just over heat the Chrome moly... Or was this the case of another failure?

-Matt

 

[EricG]

Holy crap! Glad you kept it shiny side up.
Off to check my wheel bearings ...

 

[jeepocabra]

I'm in Boise as well. Don't know how I can help but I can lend a hand and some tools. Pm me. I live right by Boise State.

 

[AMMO]

Thanks again guys, ya I'm thinking wheel bearing failue... Ouch.... Any other opinions?

- Matt

 

[dILzNAK]

I'm at a loss for words.... WOW! Glad you and your rig are OK!

 

[hawaiicruz]

any symptoms before the break, or did it just let go?

 

[coax]

Here is something to add, these are not OME Birfs... I don't blame anyone but myself as they are not intended for HWY travel

Ok, so now the question to the board.... Did I just over heat the Chrome moly.

Glad everyone is ok! I'd be curious what is meant by "not intended for highway travel". Does that mean it's not balanced for high speed rotation or is there some other attribute that makes it unsuitable? I'm having a hard time imagining a properly greased birf of any type heating up that hot due to the fact that when highway driving/straight lines there is not much movement within the birf cage itself, unlike when turning? Just a thought...Nothing really to base this off of

Corey

 

[retrofive]

Here is Woody's experience:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/275042-front-axle-rebuild-hard-way.html

 

[AMMO]

Here is Woody's experience:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/275042-front-axle-rebuild-hard-way.html

Retro...

Boy that sounds all to fimilar... And the pics could be my own... Glad we both lived to tell the story!

-Matt

P.S. The rig will return, better then ever I'm sure... That's how it goes right? Break it, fix it... Usually not at 75mph tho... Leave that for the trophy trucks and dezzy guys!

 

[anderaa13]

I don't think birfs had anything to do with your failure. I bet it was just wheel bearing failure...but I'm surprised you didn't notice anything funny before it happened. Glad you ok.

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Were they longs?

 

[hankinid]

... the rig is on a co workers horse farm in Kuna, Id just out side Boise. I will have to regroup get parts, and fly back to repair here in the near future.

Thanks again guys, and to the local guys I may need some help when I fly back for the repair party!-Matt

Ammo, I'm in SW Kuna, 3-4 miles W of town. I can contribute the bf socket for the axle nut & locknut, + a spring gauge to set the bearing preload . PM or email me if/when I can assist.

I did the fr bearing repack 2 weeks ago...would suggest cdan for parts, Peterson in BOI was 2x his price & don't think of asking for a discount.

Steve

 

[greentruck]

Grim pics, good luck, and great reflexes. Glad you're OK and the truck is, well, just missing a wheel pretty much.

And that's why I've been wondering about the stealership that repacked my front PS and 4k later the bearings are toast. Either they were pretty bad when they were repacked or someone just missed a whole lot of "maybe."

I've had enough experience pulling records on bearing failures to appreciate the role that things being not quite right play. No one wants to worry about where the flaming tire is going to land, let alone you and the rest of the truck.

 

[AMMO]

Ok guys now comes the TEC...

After reading Woody's thread, see above link in post 33...

What do I do now, I always look at these situations to make it better.... So whats the best build? Thinking of going DBA slotted rotors, 100 series pads, maybe while I'm in there convert the rig to part time, free up those hubs....

What ya all think?

-Matt

 

[PKP80]

I'd go standard rotors, 100 pads, ARP wheel studs, and upgraded steel braided short caliper brake lines. I wouldn't do part time as it adds another weak point. Hi Steer/hydro assist (can't remember if you installed either of them or not).