RTH BOISE: Hub separation @ speed

[AMMO]

I'd go standard rotors, 100 pads, ARP wheel studs, and upgraded steel braided short caliper brake lines. I wouldn't do part time as it adds another weak point. Hi Steer/hydro assist (can't remember if you installed either of them or not).

Sammy,

Still have the hi steer kit sitting and waiting but not installed yet.... ARP studs... hummn...

got your text this am, thanks for the offer man.

-Matt

 

[Ebag333]

Drilled/slotted rotors tend to suck for off road as they can plug up with dirt/rocks/etc.

 

[Elijah]

I'd go standard rotors, 100 pads, ARP wheel studs, and upgraded steel braided short caliper brake lines. I wouldn't do part time as it adds another weak point. Hi Steer/hydro assist (can't remember if you installed either of them or not).

How is the part time kit a weak point?

 

[PKP80]

How is the part time kit a weak point?

I've seen the inner assembly fail on the trail and it kinda caused a mess and a half. I wish I could remember more about what went wrong, but it was quite some time ago when I first started to wheel.

 

[Elijah]

I've seen the inner assembly fail on the trail and it kinda caused a mess and a half. I wish I could remember more about what went wrong, but it was quite some time ago when I first started to wheel.

The inner assembly of the center diff without the VC?

If anything, it seems by removing the VC and eliminating the full time wear on the front axles would be beneficial on this type of rig.

 

[AMMO]

The inner assembly of the center diff without the VC?

If anything, it seems by removing the VC and eliminating the full time wear on the front axles would be beneficial on this type of rig.

I think Sammy is talking more trail and not road wear and tear... When you start wheeling 37's + tires you find your weak links. Beef up one weak link and all you do is move the weak link someplace else. I think this is where Sam is headed with his comments.

But for long haul, cross country / expedition type wheeling a PT kit would be best in my opinion.

-Matt

 

[AMMO]

Drilled/slotted rotors tend to suck for off road as they can plug up with dirt/rocks/etc.

E,

I've also herd that drilled can develop stress cracks in-between the ports... If anything I might try the slotted, as you and I discussed on another thread... Hears to trying new things and going outside the box my friend!

-Matt

 

[PKP80]

I think Sammy is talking more trail and not road wear and tear... When you start wheeling 37's + tires you find your weak links. Beef up one weak link and all you do is move the weak link someplace else. I think this is where Sam is headed with his comments.

But for long haul, cross country / expedition type wheeling a PT kit would be best in my opinion.

-Matt

That is where I was headed, so thank you. My assumption with this rig is more of a "hardcore" rig. If the plan has changed to more expedition, I'd imagine that the selectable hubs would be cool (I guess).

E,

I've also herd that drilled can develop stress cracks in-between the ports... If anything I might try the slotted, as you and I discussed on another thread... Hears to trying new things and going outside the box my friend!

-Matt

B/c of both reasons...stress cracks and the muck build up factor I'd stick with stock rotors, but not to say I wouldn't try out the slotted rotors. More stopping power is ALWAYS a plus, not to mention the fact that with an 80, since we don't have lower Xcases available (except Marks), you're doing a lot of double foot gas and brake action and the added cooling might be noticeable.

 

[hawaiicruz]

The inner assembly of the center diff without the VC?

If anything, it seems by removing the VC and eliminating the full time wear on the front axles would be beneficial on this type of rig.

\

x2 do you mean the inner assembly of the diff or the hubs?

 

[1997GREENTT]

tblume, what birfs were you running?

 

[AMMO]

tblume, what birfs were you running?

These are / were / and will be replaced by Longs. Great product in my book.

-Ammo

 

[OGBeno]

I think Sammy meant failure of the manual hub gear.....Long has an upgrade for it.

That said, real easy solution for this: carry an extra hub or a drive flange. Both methods will allow you to get out and restore 4 wheel drive.

 

[AMMO]

Let the Rebuild Begin...

It has begun. I love this truck, lock the rear and the center and she walked up on that trailer like she had 4 wheels...

-Ammo

 

[cruiserjunktion]

Uhh, it looks like the rotor pictured is for the right side of the rig.

 

[AMMO]

Uhh, it looks like the rotor pictured is for the right side of the rig.

Good eye, I'm rebuilding the complete front end.

-A

 

[PKP80]

Rubithon! Ehem Ehem...yes I'm relentless, lol. Cheers on getting it going again. I'm sure she'll be up and running by this weekend from the looks of it. She at home in OR?

 

[AMMO]

Rubithon! Ehem Ehem...yes I'm relentless, lol. Cheers on getting it going again. I'm sure she'll be up and running by this weekend from the looks of it. She at home in OR?

Yes, Sir... And yes relentless is one word that comes to mind... LOL I hope to have all the lil bits by the weekend and get her back and running by monday. Yup she now rests at home in OR where she can get all the love and attention she deserves... And by that I mean beat her silly and then rebuild her time and time again. I kid...

-Matt

 

[AMMO]

Some new shinny bits

Arrived today.... still collecting parts this week, assembly soon to follow.

-Ammo

 

[AMMO]

The Wrap Up to the Build.

Out with the old...

 

[AMMO]

In with the New

New Long Birf, Marlin HD Inner Seals, DBA's, Reman Caliper, New guts, 100 pads, and some paint... All and all it want really smooth. The hardest part was bleeding the brakes... What a PITA...