Rotella oil users ?

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Then, you've tried the Rotella syn- based on your EXPERIENCE?

I'm not trying to bust your balls here, just saying what others have said in this thread before me. Rotella is the anti-leak synthetic. In every cruiser I've had Rotella in (2, a 60 series and my 80) it has eliminated leaks, not started them.

actually, no, i havent used the Rotella Synthetic. just a broad based opinion on synthetics in general. If it works better than regulars, thats great. im not dogging synthetic rotella or trying to be an ass for anyone to get sensitive about (not you - but cary seems to be really taking this whole synthetic opinion way too harshly).

Just my opinion... everybodies got 'em...
 
(not you - but cary seems to be really taking this whole synthetic opinion way too harshly).

Just my opinion... everybodies got 'em...


That's why I am taking it "harshly". You are spouting out nonsense that is an opinion based on nothing but idle chatter, which in turn perpetuates old wives tales. I prefer we use factual information available to us to reach conclusions rather than perpetuate baseless myths. One thing that makes this forum great is that we tend to be much more analytical than other groups (see the fan clutch discussion/tuning thread).
 
That's why I am taking it "harshly". You are spouting out nonsense that is an opinion based on nothing but idle chatter, which in turn perpetuates old wives tales. I prefer we use factual information available to us to reach conclusions rather than perpetuate baseless myths. One thing that makes this forum great is that we tend to be much more analytical than other groups (see the fan clutch discussion/tuning thread).

If you go back to my first post in this thread all the way to my last post in this thread i have stated every time that it is either my opinion or my experiences with synth's. Never once did i reference factual data or state that your results would be identical to mine.

Holy crap, man... youd think i just talked s*** about your wife or something.

To site the exact situation, i had a 92 4runner with over 100k miles. i ran 10w30 regular syn, not rotella, and i had more leaks that i could count. it seemed like if there was any place for it to come out it did... and this was a truck that NEVER leaked in its history. Thats where my opinion comes from. If Rotella is different, thats great, im not even trying to debate that. the question was asked who used regular Rotella and i responded.

If this forum isnt about opinions and personal experiences as much as it is facts then ill be sure to keep mine to myself in the future.
 
Straight dino oil here. The thin synthetic stuff worries me with the old seals in my truck.

You state in the quote below that "i have stated every time that it is either my opinion or my experiences with synth's. Never once did i reference factual data or state that your results would be identical to mine." Read you above statement, you state unequivocally "the thin synthetic stuff" as a fact. You made it in terms of a factual statement, and are perpetuating an old wives tale. I noted your incorrect assertion because it is annoying to see incorrect information continuously propagated.

If you go back to my first post in this thread all the way to my last post in this thread i have stated every time that it is either my opinion or my experiences with synth's. Never once did i reference factual data or state that your results would be identical to mine.

Holy crap, man... youd think i just talked s*** about your wife or something.

If this forum isnt about opinions and personal experiences as much as it is facts then ill be sure to keep mine to myself in the future.

Now who is it that is getting bent out of shape? :rolleyes: Sorry to get your panties in such a bunch by questioning your statements!!! Part of getting good solid information involves questioning beliefs, both factual and opinion. By having discussions where we challenge and question beliefs, we are able to reach conclusive answers supported by the evidence, rather than simply sitting around regurgitating the same old garbage.
 
Hmmm...I hate to break up this little love fest but...I was still wondering if you can mix in a quart of Lucas with sythetic Rotella? Has anyone done this or should I stick with conventional? : ).
 
Hmmm...I hate to break up this little love fest but...I was still wondering if you can mix in a quart of Lucas with sythetic Rotella? Has anyone done this or should I stick with conventional? : ).

The question is why would you want to? Oil manufactures spend tens of millions of dollars per year developing their products in order to meet the multitude of wide standards (i.e. API, ACEA, JASCO, etc.) as well as specific manufacture requirements (i.e., MB 22X, BMW LL, VW 501, 505, GM LL-A-25, and so on). When you put an additive like Lucas in, you are tapering with a very carefully designed product without knowing what the effect will be.

I highly recommend against using oil additives. You will find that virtually every manufacture of automobiles, including Toyota have a warning statement in the owners manual recommending against using additives. Pick a name brand oil, whether it be a "mineral", "semi-sythetic", or "synthetic" and use it as designed and tested by the lube engineers for the oil company.
 
Sounds good. What about 15 weight for the summer? Too heavy?
 
Sounds good. What about 15 weight for the summer? Too heavy?

The Rotella Synth is a 5w-40, not a 15w-40. If you are looking at a 15w-40, it is the mineral oil.

Both oils are a 40 weight oil at operating temperature. The first number refers to the cold pumping test, see the oil faq, Raventai and I have put a lot of information concerning all facets of oil design in it, including this.
 
actually, no, i havent used the Rotella Synthetic. just a broad based opinion on synthetics in general. If it works better than regulars, thats great. im not dogging synthetic rotella or trying to be an ass for anyone to get sensitive about (not you - but cary seems to be really taking this whole synthetic opinion way too harshly).

Just my opinion... everybodies got 'em...

FWIW, I was using Chevron Delo 15W-40, and switch to Rotella Synthetic 5w-40. After a few thousand miles I had seepage at the front crankshaft seal, rear main seal and eventually the valve cover gasket. Replaced valve cover gasket..., no biggy. After two 7500 mile change intervals on the Rotella Synthetic I've gone back to Chevron Delo. I'm still in the initial evaluation phase, but it appears the seepage I had has reduced significantly, if not stopped all together.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
FWIW, I was using Chevron Delo 15W-40 After two 7500 mile change intervals on the Rotella Synthetic I've gone back to Chevron Delo.
Rookie2


Delo 15w-40 is a great oil, just don't run it in temps are consistently bellow freezing.
 
Delo 15w-40 is a great oil, just don't run it in temps are consistently bellow freezing.

Yeh, that's my only concern and was the main reason I went to Rotella Synthetic to begin with. I was wanting an oil I could use all year round. The best thing to do would be to fix the leaks, but they're really minor compared to the amount of work to fix them. Don't know if Knoxville winters really qualify as consistently below freezing, but I guess I've got another 5 or 6 months to decide what I'm going to do for my winter mix.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Rotella is diesel oil. But it is also suitable for gas engines. Its formulation, compared to regular gas engine oils, is not so much about providing extra lubricity as it is about addressing diesel-specific problems, such as viscosity increase from soot and viscosity breakdown due to shear (diesels run roughly twice the compression of gassers). I suspect soot will be less of an issue now that ULSD has replaced LSD.

I'm looking at a Rotella bottle I had in the garage; I use the stuff in my diesel G-wagen. It carries the CI-4 Plus designation for diesel engines and also the SL designation, which is the API standard for 2004 and older gasoline engines.

Refer to the API oil service categories here and the Rotella T Synthetic page here

Be careful to get API CI-4 or equivalent, not the newer CJ. My understanding is that the API CJ formulation has lower levels of zinc and other additives.
 
Lower zinc is actually a boon for gas engines, as higher levels are known to potentially damage cat converters.
 

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