Roof rack removal tip (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NYC570
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Good idea. Where did you get them? Length and thread pattern?
- Thread starter
- #3
This is exactly what I got.
uxcell a16022300ux0808 1.25 mm Pitch M8 x 100 mm Male Threaded Rod Bar Stud Bronze Tone 4 Pcs (Pack of 4): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
uxcell a16022300ux0808 1.25 mm Pitch M8 x 100 mm Male Threaded Rod Bar Stud Bronze Tone 4 Pcs (Pack of 4): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Perfect timing on this post! I just installed a Prinsu rack.
Definitely took the worry out of losing the nuts!
Thanks!
Definitely took the worry out of losing the nuts!
Thanks!
benc
Supporting Vendor
That will definitely work and dose not hurt however not necessarily needed.
The main thing that has to be watched out for is the proper removal process is used on the bolts to start with. This process looks like this.
Remove one bolt fully from the 2 bolt nut plate, reinstall that bolt about 2-3 turns by hand then remove the other bolt.
From what we have seen to only time you take the chance of dropping the nut plate is if you remove the first bolt fully and then the second bolt, this will allow the nut plate to spin out of the clips that keep it captive and drop down.
The main thing that has to be watched out for is the proper removal process is used on the bolts to start with. This process looks like this.
Remove one bolt fully from the 2 bolt nut plate, reinstall that bolt about 2-3 turns by hand then remove the other bolt.
From what we have seen to only time you take the chance of dropping the nut plate is if you remove the first bolt fully and then the second bolt, this will allow the nut plate to spin out of the clips that keep it captive and drop down.
I’m sure you’ve taken factory racks off a million times, and I’m sure my story is complicated with my inexperience. There is a lot of fear when you pull that first rail.
I can say, when I took my factory rack off, I followed “the rules” and when I pulled my rack up the clip was only barely holding on and ended up falling into the roof. These studs would have helped me with that. Seems like they’d be good insurance. I’d have paid $7 to not have to spend 45 min dropping my headliner enough to fish out the clip.
I just pulled my rack in about an hour and a half (solo, no help), including very neurotic, slow removal of the bolts, labeling everything removed, and careful cleaning of the channels. There’s nothing tricky here if you follow the process for loosening and removing the bolts, but I found this video from Gamiviti helpful in shortening the learning curve to remove the plastic covers . The paint can lid removal tool is clutch in snapping off the covers.
If there is any sort of stickied 200-series thread that compiles tips/hacks or best practices - I vote to add this thread to the list.
This is a great single source for content regarding the threaded rods and rack removal process. Definitely favoriting this link for my future rack install.
Thanks @NYC570
This is a great single source for content regarding the threaded rods and rack removal process. Definitely favoriting this link for my future rack install.
Thanks @NYC570
I am reading this a bit late. I learned it on harder way
Gamiviti has some really good videos on removing the factory rack and installing an aftermarket rack. Would be helpful to watch no matter what rack you are doing.
www.gamiviti.com
Videos — Gamiviti
Installation, product reviews, and video captures of our overlanding adventures and more
www.gamiviti.com
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Just resolved this issue, again. So figured I'd take a little more time on documenting the solution here. We did a 200 series install today and both of the rear towers were super loose... the story was the truck received hail damage, and part of the repair was a body shop removing the factory rack then reinstalling. I was shocked at how easy it was to pop the bolts free, had never seen one that loose before. And then low and behold, the PS rear carrier below the tower was loose and spinning. But it wasn't completely lost, as it was possible to spin it using one of the bolts, in order to get the other bolt to line up again. If that happens to you, here's how to fix it...
Get some longer bolts... either some studs like those linked above by @NYC570 above, or just run to Home Depot and buy the longest M8 bolts you can find then cut the heads off. You want something like this (30mm socket head bolt that will attach the new towers, for reference).
Gently thread those guys through your factory tower, then leave them there while you remove the factory rail. When the factory rack is removed it will look like this:
Next, get your new rack tower ready and load up just 1 of the 2 bolts. Remove one of your studs then thread on the new tower... have it just barely threaded into the carrier so that you can still spin the tower around. That will look like this:
Then you can load up the tower with the new hardware for the second bolt, then remove your other stud, then install the second bolt using the first bolt as your handle to get the carrier into position. Once both bolts are threaded into the carrier you can forget all about how it was loose once, as after you tighten that tower it won't be loose anymore. Last thing you don't see above is we use a polyurethane sealant around the bolt threads, which is a little tricky to get in there after things are bolted up, but you'll get it, but it's been my experience that the sealant is usually enough to hold that carrier into place the second time, when/if the new rack tower is ever removed again. Have seen this when trucks with other racks have come through for an upgrade... but so long as you're paying attention, and alternating between the bolts as you remove them, you should be able to spot if the carrier it twisting on you, and you can employ this same method for resolving the issue a second time. questions?
Get some longer bolts... either some studs like those linked above by @NYC570 above, or just run to Home Depot and buy the longest M8 bolts you can find then cut the heads off. You want something like this (30mm socket head bolt that will attach the new towers, for reference).
Gently thread those guys through your factory tower, then leave them there while you remove the factory rail. When the factory rack is removed it will look like this:
Next, get your new rack tower ready and load up just 1 of the 2 bolts. Remove one of your studs then thread on the new tower... have it just barely threaded into the carrier so that you can still spin the tower around. That will look like this:
Then you can load up the tower with the new hardware for the second bolt, then remove your other stud, then install the second bolt using the first bolt as your handle to get the carrier into position. Once both bolts are threaded into the carrier you can forget all about how it was loose once, as after you tighten that tower it won't be loose anymore. Last thing you don't see above is we use a polyurethane sealant around the bolt threads, which is a little tricky to get in there after things are bolted up, but you'll get it, but it's been my experience that the sealant is usually enough to hold that carrier into place the second time, when/if the new rack tower is ever removed again. Have seen this when trucks with other racks have come through for an upgrade... but so long as you're paying attention, and alternating between the bolts as you remove them, you should be able to spot if the carrier it twisting on you, and you can employ this same method for resolving the issue a second time. questions?
