These are rebuildable, not sure if they would work with stock brackets or not.
http://www.emfrodends.com/EMF-Rod-Ends-Heim-Joints-Rose-Joints-s/1817.htm
"Rod ends" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CWR33
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
These are rebuildable, not sure if they would work with stock brackets or not.
http://www.emfrodends.com/EMF-Rod-Ends-Heim-Joints-Rose-Joints-s/1817.htm
If you choose the 7-8's shank with a 2" mounting width they would, good find! You just have to use weld washers like I did to make the 18mm hole a 5/8's
Sorry 3/4 inch shank
To preface, I don't have a dog in the fight.
I've been running Total Chaos rear links and UCAs on the FJC for ~50k, that have about 3-5% hard(er) core off road usage, the balance DDing.
While they may allow for a minor articulation gains, due to the misalignment capabilities, there's no other benefit I've found, but I'd put them to a test of strength against an OE bushing, but don't think they can go the distance of either the OE or Johnny joint.
Higher maintenance, because they do complain. Nothing a routine shot of TriFlow can't silence, but it's another step to consider. Race truck parts make race truck noises, and neither my FJC nor 80 are race trucks.
In my opinion, the rear geometry can't benefit due to inherent limitations in the 5 link, anyway, short of adjustability inherent with most rod end designs.
When/if the time comes to worry about the FJC, thinking about chopping the mounts, welding a Poly mount on the specific width to the Johnny joint, and swapping these for Hardline Fab (on Mud, more commonly know as Toy Outfitters) links with joints, so the service is minimal and no more creaking.
My opinion, and we all know the analogy regarding.
I've been running Total Chaos rear links and UCAs on the FJC for ~50k, that have about 3-5% hard(er) core off road usage, the balance DDing.
While they may allow for a minor articulation gains, due to the misalignment capabilities, there's no other benefit I've found, but I'd put them to a test of strength against an OE bushing, but don't think they can go the distance of either the OE or Johnny joint.
Higher maintenance, because they do complain. Nothing a routine shot of TriFlow can't silence, but it's another step to consider. Race truck parts make race truck noises, and neither my FJC nor 80 are race trucks.
In my opinion, the rear geometry can't benefit due to inherent limitations in the 5 link, anyway, short of adjustability inherent with most rod end designs.
When/if the time comes to worry about the FJC, thinking about chopping the mounts, welding a Poly mount on the specific width to the Johnny joint, and swapping these for Hardline Fab (on Mud, more commonly know as Toy Outfitters) links with joints, so the service is minimal and no more creaking.
My opinion, and we all know the analogy regarding.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Have to agree with Chris here, very few things are as reliable, quiet and strong as the Toyota oe bushings. They simply work. I have yet to see a side by side comparison where a special joint was used in rear arms that allowed for more travel than the factory bushings in a stock link situation. Even in the worste blown out and dry rotted condition, the bushing will never leave you stranded.
The only change here is longer shocks and no swaybar. This is how far you can push the Toyota bushings.
- Thread starter
- #26
So do the Johnny joints have similar draw backs. (in regards to vibration, noise, and lifespan) I know the ones I looked had a zerk fitting so you could lubricate it, and it seems to me that it would stay greased for a while since it is essentially a hiem inside of a bushing. And apparently they are rebuild able. I heard that there aren't any that fit the 80 yet, but if they are worth a damn I bet we could establish a market.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
Have installed the Johnny joint version of HFS Links on two FJCs for locals and, if memory serves, they were a perfect fit, possibly using a washer on each side, inside the mount (been awhile and have wrenched on too many).
The FJC links and 80 links appeared to be (again, if memory serves) near the same width at the frame mount, so there may be an option for some that fit, already.
Biggest benefit, once again, is adjustability and the zerk is an improvement over the Heim, from a long term perspective, but in all honesty, I've yet have need to adjust the links any longer on the FJCs, so benefit is negated, (edited: benefit of adjustability is negated. The FJC links can bend in the hands of a 5 year old.) short of minimal articulation gain.
For the 80, went with LandTanks specifically for the retention of OE bushings, and still waiting for Rick to get off his arse and build corresponding uppers.
Edited: that's a joke, Rick.
The FJC links and 80 links appeared to be (again, if memory serves) near the same width at the frame mount, so there may be an option for some that fit, already.
Biggest benefit, once again, is adjustability and the zerk is an improvement over the Heim, from a long term perspective, but in all honesty, I've yet have need to adjust the links any longer on the FJCs, so benefit is negated, (edited: benefit of adjustability is negated. The FJC links can bend in the hands of a 5 year old.) short of minimal articulation gain.
For the 80, went with LandTanks specifically for the retention of OE bushings, and still waiting for Rick to get off his arse and build corresponding uppers.
Edited: that's a joke, Rick.
Last edited:
js93cruiser said:
I'd prefer a motorcycle chain lube, you'll have far longer lasting results. That's what we use on uniballs on our street and drift cars.
That said, I don't put these on street cars due to rattles. Bushings are cheaper and more durable.
Currie does make a Johnny joint with a 2 3/8"width but the bolt hole is 9/16" and the 80 series is 18mm. We are contemplating having some bushing reducers made to make the current johnny joint work with our offset links so they can used on the 80 series.
Well...no dog here either but the best I have used in the past are manufactured by Aurora. I walked past many other brands at the time. Just thought for those fence leaning, check out the brand.
86tuning said:
This is the chit, right here.
Can be bought in smaller aerosol containers at high end bikes shops, but larger can be ordered online.
It dries rapidly, so there's not much opportunity for debris to adhere. Tried several before, and only that doesn't leave a residue, yet lasts between normal schedule lube cycles (about 2500 miles on mine, including the uniball).
I don't frequent the dunes much anymore, but would be ideal as a chain lube for, since the sand would be less apt to stick to.
For what it's worth.
We have them here at the shop for our 100 series and FJC Links. We have both the 1 1/4" shank or the 1" shank, we can sell either one for $44.95 each. Just keep in mind the bolt hole is different so you will have to come up with a reducing sleeve on the frame and axle to accept the 9/16" bolt.
Sorry just the 9/16". That is what FJC/4Runner/100/200 Land Cruiser use for the lower links.
