Rock Slider Brain Stormin'

[snowcruiser]

While Junk's in the process of repairing the rear bumper FAQ I thought I'd try to start another based on Rock Sliders. Post details of custom rock sliders here with as many photos as possible and include information on steel used, successes and failures, mounting points, bolt-on-weld-on, flare/flap integration etc.

Someone could start by posting some pictures of their Slee or Hanna-Quality sliders and good photos of the mounting and attachment points.

Any other ideas relating to sliders would also be nice and this will hopefully serve as a all-inclusive thread for those hoping to build their own sliders some day, thus please limit the chit-chat to sliders.

Snow

 

[landtoy80]

I have the Slee slider with running boards. I don't think Slee makes them anymore???
The running boards bolts on so it can be removed.
This is a great option if your wife drives the 80.
Slee had some good pic of them but they are not on his site but I could ask him for them if anyone wants them or I could post some pic with my crap camera.

 

[Beowulf]

Snow,
I've posted pics several times of my custom sliders that are based on George's plans. He has pics of his and he has the CAD files on his web site. You are welcome to find my prior posts and use the pics and my verbiage. I can't promise that I will have time to do it for you but I will try if you don't mind waiting a week or two.
-B-

 

[waskillywabbit]

Custom Rock Sliders

While I don't have an 80....yet....I have designed some sliders based off the best of all the ones I've seen. They were made from 2"x3"x3/16" rect tubing for the main rail and the supports to the frame. The supports to the frame were set with the short side horizontal to the frame and tapered back to the main rail which had the short side vertical. See below.

I used 1 5/8" diameter tubing for the outriggers and turned them up at a slight angle, maybe 15 degrees, so they would function as both a step and as protection.

I also added scab plates to the frame to better distribute the loading and I rounded the ends of the main rails with some tubing cut in half so it wouldn't get hung up as it might if it had sharp corners.

I got a bud at work who is a much better welder than myself to help me build them. All in all it was about $100 worth of materials at the time, but steel prices have almost doubled since then and that was only about 4 months ago.

These have held up well during two trips to Tellico and have taken a beating, as well as saved my body panels from significant damage.

 

[Gumby]

Very nice. Mine are pretty utilitarian. 2x4x1/4 (way too thick) for the rocker protection. 1x1x1/4 for the outriggers from the frame. 2x1/4 plate at the frame on both sides with 3/8 grade 8 bolts sandwiching the frame for easy unbolting. 1-1/2x1/8 tubes at an angle with two spreaders and curved in at the ends. Skate tape from the local skateboard shop on the tops of the tubes.

Works great. Looks OK. The wife is happy to have the steps. Pics at the cruiserGarage

Hopefully, once the steel tarrifs are rolled back, the price of steel will come back to normal. I've go a 4-link ot build.

 

[reffug]

I don't have a camera to take a photo at the moment but my rig has custom sliders. A really cool addition to these particular sliders is they are airtight and actually have a valve and fill tube coming from the on-board air system so that they each hold roughly 30 or so lbs. of air that can be accessed from an air input/output mounted on the front of the bull bar. Comes in handy when coming back on road. Just my 2 cents.

 

[alia176]

I also used George's design with some of my own tweaks. They can be found at http://community.webshots.com/album/152568934AshbDv/0 I need to add the nerf bars for a tad bit more protection plus a much needed step for access to the roof!

Later,

Ali