Rig turns over but dies, RTH (1 Viewer)

[yellowgeko]

Aright, I got thick skin and I ain’t to proud to ask for help. Say what you will, I just need some direction.

Full disclaimer, amateur hour up in here right now.

I sea foamed sprayed my rig through the air intake.

I followed the instructions but the straw got caught on the ribs of the hose and did not spray directly onto the throttle plate. It ended up pooling and, I think, getting sucked into a passage on the side before the throttle plate.

My wife was on the skinny pedal keeping the rpm’s at 2k and it died. When I took the intake hose off, I saw the straw had gotten caught and the sea foam pulled.

It currently turns over, roars to life and then dies. If I pump the gas, the rpm’s shoot up and it then dies. It’s only alive for like 3 seconds.

It’s currently dark and 20 degrees right now so I am waiting till morning. I am hoping, maybe, some of it will evaporate and it will start up in the morning?

Obviously it’s not hydro locked, it’s turns over. it seems like it’s starved for oxygen. I believe Something is reducing our restricting assured flow and my gut is telling me the sea foam got sucked up into the thing circled in yellow.

I am not near my computer which has my fsm and having to trouble googling what ever that thing is.


Anyone know what this is? Ideas?

 

[El Skywalker]

Maybe replace the Mass Airflow Sensor?

 

[chilibit]

Aright, I got thick skin and I ain’t to proud to ask for help. Say what you will, I just need some direction.

Full disclaimer, amateur hour up in here right now.

I sea foamed sprayed my rig through the air intake.

I followed the instructions but the straw got caught on the ribs of the hose and did not spray directly onto the throttle plate. It ended up pooling and, I think, getting sucked into a passage on the side before the throttle plate.

My wife was on the skinny pedal keeping the rpm’s at 2k and it died. When I took the intake hose off, I saw the straw had gotten caught and the sea foam pulled.

It currently turns over, roars to life and then dies. If I pump the gas, the rpm’s shoot up and it then dies. It’s only alive for like 3 seconds.

It’s currently dark and 20 degrees right now so I am waiting till morning. I am hoping, maybe, some of it will evaporate and it will start up in the morning?

Obviously it’s not hydro locked, it’s turns over. it seems like it’s starved for oxygen. I believe Something is reducing our restricting assured flow and my gut is telling me the sea foam got sucked up into the thing circled in yellow.

View attachment 3226227
I am not near my computer which has my fsm and having to trouble googling what ever that thing is.


Anyone know what this is? Ideas?

Some years ago I over-wetted a K&N filter on my 80 and the oil coated the wire whose cooling sets air/fuel ratio. It was similar to what you describe. I sprayed a cleaner on it and never regretted going back to paper filters.

 

[studawg]

I think that thing is like a baffle or resonator to quiet the induction noise down. Id probably take the intake tubes and MAF apart and make sure they have dried out. Maybe disconnect the battery while doing that, to clear any codes or memory, and then put it all back together and crank it up.

 

[Sandroad]

Do you have an OBD scanner available? Where exactly did you spray the Seafoam? I think the posts suggesting damaged/contaminated air flow sensor are on the right track.

 

[yellowgeko]

Welp two steps forward one step back. See at the bottom.

First off, thank you to everyone for the help.

Second, I don’t know if its the fact that it’s 17 degrees, the fact I got 300k miles on the odometer, or a combo but I think I figured it out and made it worse.

Maybe replace the Mass Airflow Sensor?

I disconnected the MAF and it started right up. The MAF looks completely dry and untouched which is weird.

Some years ago I over-wetted a K&N filter on my 80 and the oil coated the wire whose cooling sets air/fuel ratio. It was similar to what you describe. I sprayed a cleaner on it and never regretted going back to paper filters.

Yeah, I think it was the MAF.

I think that thing is like a baffle or resonator to quiet the induction noise down. Id probably take the intake tubes and MAF apart and make sure they have dried out. Maybe disconnect the battery while doing that, to clear any codes or memory, and then put it all back together and crank it up.

I gotta disconnect to reset but I think you were right.

Do you have an OBD scanner available? Where exactly did you spray the Seafoam? I think the posts suggesting damaged/contaminated air flow sensor are on the right track.

I don’t but it seems like it was the MAF.


In the process of the trouble shooting I broke some crap.

These hoses cracked (circled in yellow) and I snapped the anchor for this connector (circled in red). So I gotta find part numbers and hope the dealer has them in tomorrow.

Consequentially, I also found the coolant leak I have had. I didn’t even touch this part but when I got her cranked coolant started shooting everywhere. This T broke in two on the rear passenger side, I think it was barley holding together due to age. . At least I found the issue….
(Pic of tundra engine lc has more heater hoses)

Anyone know part numbers of the top of their head for any of these? I think I might see if I can find a metal replacement T for the coolant lines.

 

[Sandroad]

Here’s a heater T thread that has a hose part diagram in post 3

Need Part Number for Heater Hose T's

For my 2007 Land Cruiser 100, 215K miles. In a thread here I was advised to avoid breakdown to replace my two heater hose T's. I bought two heater hose T's - Toyota description "PIPE, WATER" from TWO different dealers. They both sent me part number 87248-60460. Both T's are way too small. I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[04UZJ100]

Stay away from Seafoam. Period.

 

[yellowgeko]

Here’s a heater T thread that has a hose part diagram in post 3

Need Part Number for Heater Hose T's

For my 2007 Land Cruiser 100, 215K miles. In a thread here I was advised to avoid breakdown to replace my two heater hose T's. I bought two heater hose T's - Toyota description "PIPE, WATER" from TWO different dealers. They both sent me part number 87248-60460. Both T's are way too small. I...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks. That for a 100; are they the same size for the 200?

 

[Godwin]

Stay away from Seafoam. Period.

^^ this

 

[Sandroad]

Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200

With the known Heater Hose T failures with the 100 series, I decided to upgrade my 2010 200 series Heater Hose T’s. I now have a 173k on my 200 and was concerned how long these plastic parts can hold up long term. Found an exact match by Dorman (see pic below). I used Breeze SS Constant Torque...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[yellowgeko]

Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200

With the known Heater Hose T failures with the 100 series, I decided to upgrade my 2010 200 series Heater Hose T’s. I now have a 173k on my 200 and was concerned how long these plastic parts can hold up long term. Found an exact match by Dorman (see pic below). I used Breeze SS Constant Torque...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks. Bought and switched!

 

[yellowgeko]

Just to close this out. I bought some MAF cleaner from CRC and sprayed it out. I wiped out the intake hose, unhooked the battery, and waited about 30 min.

Buttoned her up and she started once and died. Tried again and was heavy with the gas and she runs like a top now.

Replaced the heater hose Tees with new metal ones from doorman and new hose clamps. Works great, no drips. No fear they will disintegrate like the old one. That was the most time consuming part. But was discovered only because of taking the MAF off. Not related to the MAF issue but serendipity none the less.

Thanks everyone.

Moral of the story, don’t spray crap on your MAF.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Buttoned her up and she started once and died. Tried again and was heavy with the gas and she runs like a top now.

Just a heads up: It will always die immediately on first start after a battery disconnect. Can't remember what the reason is but its a feature, not a bug.