So I'm finally going to get around to installing this bumper this Friday. Any tips/tricks I should know about?
Rhino 4x4 Front Bumper
- Thread starter mcgaskins
- Start date
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With regard to getting the bumper gap to be correct on the sides where they reach up to the body panels, here's where I described that problem (the gap was too big):
And here's the solution (use a stack of stainless steel washers to push the bumper back until you reduce it down to a 1/2" gap):
Also, with the rubber trim piece that goes between the bumper and the headlights, don't make the flap go under the headlights. Doing that does make it look a little better, but it also essentially eliminates the gap between the headlight and bumper so that on bumps the independent body & frame movements has the potential to crack your headlight housings. So instead, make the rubber trim flap stay out of the gap, basically so it just rests against the front of the headlight.
prharper
GOLD Star
Hopefully your directions are better than what I was provided. I had a mix of pre-facelift and facelift directions.
Be careful taking off the headlight washer nozzles. I broke 1 of 2 clips on one but still stays attached and functions. Clamp the hoses when you disconnect or you will get washer fluid everywhere.
Be careful with the chassis brackets, you don't want to drop one inside the frame. I used a string just in case and it saved me - a few times.
Don't tighten everything down that holds the wings together. You will have to slowly tighten things down while aligning the wings. An original picture of mine is attached, which I shared and discussed with Rhino. They told me the wings were too close to fenders (think flexing when wheeling). Rhino advised me the gap should be wide enough to get the meaty portion of your index finger between the wing and panel.
Gap is too close:
Hope this helps.
Be careful taking off the headlight washer nozzles. I broke 1 of 2 clips on one but still stays attached and functions. Clamp the hoses when you disconnect or you will get washer fluid everywhere.
Be careful with the chassis brackets, you don't want to drop one inside the frame. I used a string just in case and it saved me - a few times.
Don't tighten everything down that holds the wings together. You will have to slowly tighten things down while aligning the wings. An original picture of mine is attached, which I shared and discussed with Rhino. They told me the wings were too close to fenders (think flexing when wheeling). Rhino advised me the gap should be wide enough to get the meaty portion of your index finger between the wing and panel.
Gap is too close:
Hope this helps.
How do you pop the headlight washers and parking sensors out of the stock bumper? How do those clips on the headlight washers attach?
Thanks!
Thanks!
For removing the washer from bumper:
Step 1: On the front side of the bumper, pull the retracting mechanism out slightly from its hole. After doing that, you'll see that tabs that keep the plastic cover in place. Remove the plastic cover.
Step 2: If you look at the backside of the bumper, there is a large metal clip sandwiched between the washer assembly and the bumper that keeps the headlight washer from moving around (it acts like a large, flat spring). You slide that metal clip out, and the washer is free to move around.
Step 3: Now that the washer assembly can move freely, you'll see that it sort of rotates outward a little bit so that a lip in the rectangle hole can get free, and then the washer assembly can then be pushed back through to the backside of the bumper.
I did not have to disconnect any washer hoses by doing it this way ^
I don't recall much about the parking sensors. I think they're keyed and just twist either clockwise or counter-clockwise to line up the notches so they can pull right out. You should first take a picture from the backside of the bumper showing the direction the sensor connectors are pointing (I think they point outward, toward the sides of the vehicle?).
prharper
GOLD Star
Pull out on the washer nozzle, spring loaded.
Clip is on each side, push in after pulling arm out. Maneuver back out of the hole.
Thanks!
More questions... My instruction book doesn't cover these two little side plates, I assume those are the ones that fill in the gaps near the fender liners? Also, I've got a bunch of flange nuts with allen bolts, are those for the skid plate? It also doesn't make mention of the bull bar, I assume that'll be obvious one I get there?
I appear to be missing what they call the "plate holder", I assume that's for the license plate? Is that all it does or does it also tie together the assembly? IE, can I install the bumper without it and then do a different mounting arrangement for my license plate? I'm also missing the rubber bushings. Those are for the lower skid plate, correct? I've got ARB skids that I'm keeping, so I won't be using that lower skid plate, do I still need those bushings?
Does anyone have the newer instruction book they could send me as a pdf?
TIA!
I appear to be missing what they call the "plate holder", I assume that's for the license plate? Is that all it does or does it also tie together the assembly? IE, can I install the bumper without it and then do a different mounting arrangement for my license plate? I'm also missing the rubber bushings. Those are for the lower skid plate, correct? I've got ARB skids that I'm keeping, so I won't be using that lower skid plate, do I still need those bushings?
Does anyone have the newer instruction book they could send me as a pdf?
TIA!
Last edited:
Yes, I think the updated instructions answers all the questions you posed (except maybe the bull bar, but yes, that's obvious when you get to it and can do it very last if you want). Here's the instructions PDF.
To summarize the answer to your questions: The two side plates (the flat ones with the lip on one side?) mount to the bottom of the wings to keep road debris out and the lip holds the fender liner in place. The flange nuts are for the skid plates, and are honestly kind of annoying removing them every time you do an oil change. The license plate holder is optional, don't need it (it became clear to me that it would be bad for scratching the color-matched paint job I had done, so I just skipped it).
Got it, thanks. I assume I can just run the upper skid and leave my lower ARB skid in place?
I think you should be able to, I don't think the ARB skid attaches to the stock recovery point bolt locations does it? (Because the Rhino bumper uses those points and makes it so skids can't attach there in the normal way). I did have to cut off the lower wing piece of the Rhino's top bash plate so that it wouldn't interfere with the Slee skid's attachment point on the radiator support (either an angle grinder or a sawzall will cut through that aluminum pretty easily):
No, pretty sure it bolts in where the stock plate goes. I've got an ARB recovery point that I think I'll have to remove tho
prharper
GOLD Star
This is the 3rd iteration of the install instructions and by far the best I have seen. Wish they had it available when I installed mine. I purchased the bumper before they added the two lower side plates. Ended up ordering those recently. Price for wings wasn't too bad but shipping expense was ridiculous and they didn't come with install directions so this PDF covers it.
FWIW - I have the Rhino skid plate with Budbuilt skids and oil change is a breeze. I don't have to mess with the Rhino skid plate but did have to take it off once and it's a pain with those "wrench" nuts. I'm in VA and legally have to run a front license plate. I wheel my truck pretty hard and have never damaged the license plate or holder or the Rhino skid plate. I have had to replace the Budbuilt engine skid and swapped the aluminum one out for stainless steel.
Thanks for sharing the PDF.
Ok guys, more questions. Apologize in advance but I didn't see this in any of the posts here. So I got all my factory stuff off, which was a huge PITA as it'd never come apart before.
First issue, the Rhino instructions show the front frame horns as being bare and you use their nuts/bolts to attach the brackets to the horns. Mine have studs in them. I assume it's ok just to run the factory studs?
Next problem is with the brackets that you're supposed to fish into the front frame rails and then grab with the long all thread.
Mine don't fit into the holes in my frame rails. See?
I took a grinder to one of the brackets and it's close to fitting, but the other one is a solid 4mm away. At that point I stopped as this job will be far easier using a band saw or a mill, neither of which I have. So, are my brackets just welded up wrong or did you guys have to deal with this too? Which then leads into my next question, how the hell did you get this bracket into the frame hole with the kdss in the way?
I know it looks like there's tons of space but the shaft of the kdss is directly in the way of fishing the bracket into the frame hole, if it even fit inside the frame hole.
For now I put all the factory stuff back onto the truck just so I can drive it until I get some answers.
First issue, the Rhino instructions show the front frame horns as being bare and you use their nuts/bolts to attach the brackets to the horns. Mine have studs in them. I assume it's ok just to run the factory studs?
Next problem is with the brackets that you're supposed to fish into the front frame rails and then grab with the long all thread.
Mine don't fit into the holes in my frame rails. See?
I took a grinder to one of the brackets and it's close to fitting, but the other one is a solid 4mm away. At that point I stopped as this job will be far easier using a band saw or a mill, neither of which I have. So, are my brackets just welded up wrong or did you guys have to deal with this too? Which then leads into my next question, how the hell did you get this bracket into the frame hole with the kdss in the way?
I know it looks like there's tons of space but the shaft of the kdss is directly in the way of fishing the bracket into the frame hole, if it even fit inside the frame hole.
For now I put all the factory stuff back onto the truck just so I can drive it until I get some answers.
This install is very frustrating, but it really does all fit once you figure it out. I used the OEM studs on the horn, did not replace them. I certainly did not need to grind or cut anything to get the bracket in the frame. I don't remember exactly, but I either feed it through the hole on inside facing side of the frame or popped out one of the side covers and put through that.
Yes, just use the factory studs. I remember having the same question during installation.
I don't remember having any problem fitting the brackets in through the holes. Those brackets are shorter on one side, though, and I think I had to insert the short side first, with the bracket at an angle? I might be remembering wrong. If that doesn't work for the bracket... we have the same year LC as each other, so our frames should be the same. So then my guess would be that your brackets are meant for a different vehicle or are welded wrong.
I don't remember having any problem fitting the brackets in through the holes. Those brackets are shorter on one side, though, and I think I had to insert the short side first, with the bracket at an angle? I might be remembering wrong. If that doesn't work for the bracket... we have the same year LC as each other, so our frames should be the same. So then my guess would be that your brackets are meant for a different vehicle or are welded wrong.
prharper
GOLD Star
It's been a few years since I did the install.
Pulled up a pic of mine.
See below:
Edit - not sure about that cap. I have a 2018 LC as well and I didn't need to grind anything here.
Here is mine:
prharper
GOLD Star
yep, the bracket has different lengths on each side. Pic of mine before install.
Also, this nut on the end of the threaded rod does not use a washer, which is a mistake in my opinion. The nut is barely larger than the hole. I recommend getting a washer for peace of mind.
prharper
GOLD Star
Pardon the mess. I spray my undercarriage yearly with Woolwax and it attracts dirt.
