Rhino 4x4 Front Bumper (1 Viewer)

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I have the skid from an 18 build I didnt use.

I am interested!

I am talks with Rhino right now to get a quote for replacement skids (and I will attach the quote to the claim I filed with FedEx), but yours might be a better option.
 
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Bought @kromealt's unopened bumper (dealing with him was a pleasure). But then in-transit FedEx decided to open the box and split it into two boxes. Got the first box today (the new box that FedEx threw stuff into). FedEx appears to have randomly decided what to put in the extra box, and didn't put any real padding in the box for protection. I feel lucky that the fog lamps aren't smashed up. But there was a huge hole ripped in the side of the box, I'm pretty sure one of the fog lamp cables fell out, and who knows what else. I'll have to wait for the 2nd box to get here tomorrow before I know for sure.

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Dang, fedex really botched it up didn’t they? That really sucks, sorry man!
 
My lower skid ("bash plate") looks just like the one pictured above but will not work on my 2021 Cruiser. The mount for that bash plate has holes that do not line up with any part of the frame under the vehicle. I have reached out to BudBuilt.com regarding their lower engine skid since it appears to be compatible with the Rhino front skid. Bummer.
 
My lower skid ("bash plate") looks just like the one pictured above but will not work on my 2021 Cruiser. The mount for that bash plate has holes that do not line up with any part of the frame under the vehicle. I have reached out to BudBuilt.com regarding their lower engine skid since it appears to be compatible with the Rhino front skid. Bummer.

You're saying that these holes don't exist on your frame?

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@FerrisBueller that is correct. The bash plate mount would, based on the bash plate size and bolt hole position, mount to the area directly underneath the steering rack. In my haste and "enthusiasm" I actually tried to remove one of the large bolts holding the steering rack to the frame and broke it (it just spins in place now, so maybe not broken but not tight). I cannot find a spot to bolt in the mount piece.
 
My lower skid ("bash plate") looks just like the one pictured above but will not work on my 2021 Cruiser. The mount for that bash plate has holes that do not line up with any part of the frame under the vehicle. I have reached out to BudBuilt.com regarding their lower engine skid since it appears to be compatible with the Rhino front skid. Bummer.
I installed my Rhino bumper and skid plate on a 2021 HE and everything lined up just fine. I can put it on a lift and take pictures tomorrow if you need them.
 
@rcork that would be amazing! I very well could've just been affected by my frustration and missed something obvious.

Did you install the skid and lower bash plate?
 
I did install everything. First on my 2020 and then I just had to get a silver 2021 so I did it all again. Here are some pictures from my garage. They might be good enough to help you out. But if you need more I can get it on the lift tomorrow.

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@rcork no need to put it up on a lift. I can see already that your bashplate is different from mine. Mine has two bolts holes towards the center (at the rear), not the 4 I see on yours, 2 on each side. Thank you for sharing these pics. I really thought I was going nuts but I did in fact receive the wrong bashplate.

I've already emailed the Rhino folks in Argentina yesterday but no replies yet. I'll probably just buy the BudBuilt version.
 
@rcork could I trouble you for a couple pics of how your bumper lines up with the headlights and the front fenders? I will be pulling mine off at some point in the near future to reinstall different rubber moulding and hopefully better align it and close the gap more with the fender.
 
@redeye I checked on my 2018, because I'm going to be installing my bumper next week. I have the same style bash plate as you, so I was worried that I might have the same problem.

I have these bolts that line up correctly with the mount plate, and it looks like it's the same bolts that were used on the old style bash plate. Strange that 2021 wouldn't have these bolts, but minor things do sometimes change from year to year.

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Bumper's painted, and the next couple days are nice cool weather...

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Couldn't quite get it finished before I ran out of a specific size bolt & nut. :rolleyes: Will have to go to the hardware store to pick some more up tomorrow.

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Agree with all the comments above and with @mcgaskins. When I installed solo on my 2018 over the winter - first attempt, it stuck out on the side more and Ben at Rhino advised me that the gap was too close (need to be able to fit fat part of your finger in the gap to allow flex when wheeling). Pics below were first attempt. I then loosed everything back up and had to play with a lot of back and forth adjustments on side and front. Was easier second time around and would have been much quicker with another set of hands. Small adjustments before tightening down and patience. Last photo was second and final attempt.

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@prharper I have a big gap on the driver side. With the wing arm mounts bolting directly to the frame, I see no way to adjust the wing backward (only up/down seems possible). Did you find a way to adjust forward/backward? (Or anyone else with 16+ model?)

It's about a 3/4" gap, would like to knock at least 1/4" off that to get to 1/2" or less.

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I think somewhere around 5/8" gap is recommended for bumper vs body movement. The bumper is attached to the frame, so the body moves separately.
I admit to not knowing what gap Rhino 4x4 specifies in their install guide.
 
I think some pinch weld would hide that gap and offer protection.

Did you have a body shop paint it blizzard pearl? Looks good. I’ve been contemplating one for a while.
 
I can't speak for Rhino, but TJM says minimum 20mm gap.

And regardless of bumper brand, it is amazing how much movement the bumper - firmly bolted to the frame - has relative to the body. Even driving down paved roads. The body mounts must absorb a lot of movement.

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The Rhino docs say to leave a 1 - 1.5 cm gap, which equates to about 3/8" - 5/8" gap. It's perfect on the passenger side at about 4/8" (or 1/2"), but the driver's side is just a bit too obvious at 6/8" (or 3/4"). That extra 1/8" doesn't sound like a big difference, but it definitely looks different.

My plan is just to leave it as-is for now. Maybe I'll take another stab at it when I feel like it. The more I stare at pictures of it, the more I'm thinking that the previous owner must have had some fender work / alignment done at some point, as the hood and headlight don't seem to align perfectly with the fender, and might explain the extra offset on that fender.

I think some pinch weld would hide that gap and offer protection.

Did you have a body shop paint it blizzard pearl? Looks good. I’ve been contemplating one for a while.

Yes. I first had a local media blaster strip the bumper to bare metal, then had a body shop paint it to match Blizzard Pearl. I dropped off my rear bumper hitch cover for them to match against. It does look fantastic in person, but I'm a little disappointed at how fragile the paint seems to be while installing the bumper. The body shop had great reviews, so I don't know what to think of that shop at this point. They really did a great job matching the existing paint, so I'm generally happy with it. I might get PPF on the bumper to protect the paint (which I wouldn't have done had it been as durable as the original Toyota paint).
 
good to know about the paint. I was debating doing just black like the SLEE heritage but I do like the color matched. Yeah prob paint plus clear xpel wrap would be the ideal way to do it.

Then again the first time you scrape the bumper I can imagine the xpel just getting shredded.
 

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