Rewiring/replacing switches

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Jul 13, 2024
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Leeds, UK
I'm tinkering with the idea of changing the layout/design of my 2000 reg. UK spec 100 series console switches - AC/heater controls, ahc switches, aerial, heated seats, suspension modes, dash dimmer, fog lights, sport/snow mode etc.
Basically all the controls which are not either hardwired into the dashboard or indicator stalks.

Would I be correct in arsuming that they are all standard "analogue" switches and/or variable resistors, and not "smart" switches that send a data signal?

I can't imagine they would be, in the interest of KISS, but just thought I'd check.

One of the reasons is that a previous owner has spilled *something* over the center console, and all the controls are sticky+corroded to a point where even after removing + ultrasonic cleaning they are barely usable, so need replacing anyway.
 
Confirm with a look in the EWD, but I think all the switches are just contact type. The body ECU, behind the stereo head unit, does all the thinking.

You can use the USDM EWD in the Resources section. It'll be good enough for this exercise.

FWIW, I think most, if not all are still available. Check with Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 to make sure. He can get OEM parts for you at a price which I'd bet is comparable to generic switches and far better quality.

You'll need 89299–60010 Suspension switch, which is a multifunction switch not easily replaced by generic. US dealer stock says discontinued, but I'd bet it's still in production, or at least in a Japan warehouse somewhere. Expect about $80–ish (US) from Dave.

The seat heater switches (84751–60090 [RH]/ 84751–60100 [LH]) are still available at about $40 (US) each, they are rheostats, IIRC.

The transmission select switch, 84720–60120, is a DPDT, rocker (only one side can be engaged at a time, or neither can be), but it too should still be available.
 
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Confirm with a look in the EWD, but I think all the switches are just contact type. The body ECU, behind the stereo head unit, does all the thinking.

You can use the USDM EWD in the Resources section. It'll be good enough for this exercise.

FWIW, I think most, if not all are still available. Check with Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 to make sure. He can get OEM parts for you at a price which I'd bet is comparable to generic switches and far better quality.

You'll need 89299–60010 Suspension switch, which is a multifunction switch not easily replaced by generic. US dealer stock says discontinued, but I'd bet it's still in production, or at least in a Japan warehouse somewhere. Expect about $80–ish (US) from Dave.

The seat heater switches (84751–60090 [RH]/ 84751–60100 [LH]) are still available at about $40 (US) each, they are rheostats, IIRC.

The transmission select switch, 84720–60120, is a DPDT, rocker (only one side can be engaged at a time, or neither can be), but it too should still be available.


Thanks for that.
I'd not even considered the EWD, despite the fact I was looking at it a couple of days ago. 😬🙄
Although it doesn't give the complete picture:


I've already replaced the trans select switch - it's not a standard "dpdt rocker" - it's a latch on one side, momentary on the other, and is part of what lead me to ask the original question.

The dimmer control for the dash lights is a rheostat/potentiometer, but the EWD doesn't give the value , afaics - any idea of the type/value? As mine is FUBAR to the point of not being reverse-engineerable
 
If you have a desire to change up the look of your dash, then fair enough - crack on. But don't think this will be a cheaper endeavor than getting replacement switches from a breaker. Jap Spares in Sheffield can probably sort you out or Gary at 80 breakers is a but more expensive, but knows cruisers.

For info the HVAC controls are direct onto the board (ECU is integrated into the control switch panel) so they will be challenging. Don't forget to include service plugs in your new wiring so you can unplug and remove trim panels without having to remove every single switch.
 
If you have a desire to change up the look of your dash, then fair enough - crack on. But don't think this will be a cheaper endeavor than getting replacement switches from a breaker.

It's a bit of both, but mainly the former. 😁
 

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