RESOLVED : Help? What's the Proper Clutch Pedal Engagement Point?

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@lostmarbles Tom - thanks again for all the great pictures and information! I forwarded it all the the catkiller.org's webmaster. He's already responded, with an emphatic "thanks!" and has forwarded your pictures to the widow of a pilot who potentially flew that plane in Viet Nam in '67 and '68. He died in 2009.

So... we made some peoples' day!!

I feel good!! ...and so should you!!
 
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Yes, 1" from the top. But, I also said, that I followed the FSM and saw no change. Then I followed others' suggestions and shortened the slave rod, resulting in the lower engagement.

Do you see that as a potential problem, Sarge?
 
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I would absolutely verify there is play at the clutch/throwout bearing . 1" from the top is really pushing it and probably a bit tough to drive . You should be able to grab the clutch fork and physically rattle the bearing against the clutch cover if there is decent clearance . I'd wonder just how much of the disk is left or if it has a mis-matched cover somehow .
Sarge
 
Are you referring to the clutch inspection cover? I wasn't able to move the clutch fork at all. I also removed the slave-return-spring and still couldn't move the fork at all. I'm not a weak wuss... but, my hands are arthritic... but, I'll crawl back under in the morning and try again.

While I was working on it, before, I removed the cover and watched the clutch/throwout bearing while my Wife pressed the clutch and when the clutch is released the slave-return-spring pulls the bearing back away from the clutch plate fingers - there's (I'd estimate) about 1/8" between the bearing and the fork, when the clutch is released.

It drives very well - no slippage, engages and disengages smoothly... gears shift smoothly...

I'll try to rattly the fork again in the morning and report back.

I'm happy with how it drives, but don't want to screw something up just because I wanted it to engage a little lower...

Thanks!
 
Weber Sarge said:
Did you say that clutch engages 1" from the top ? No way that is correct ...
Sarge
Click to expand...

pngunme said:
Yes, 1" from the top. But, I also said, that I followed the FSM and saw no change. Then I followed others' suggestions and shortened the slave rod, resulting in the lower engagement.
Do you see that as a potential problem, Sarge?
Click to expand...

I don't see any problem with 1 inch from the top Sarge.

Here's a bit from the image in post #31.
Post31.webp

You can see that the engagement point is supposed to be anywhere from 0.79" to 1.57" from the top (circled in red).

Or am I missing something?


pngunme said:
... I wasn't able to move the clutch fork at all. I also removed the slave-return-spring and still couldn't move the fork at all. I'm not a weak wuss... but, my hands are arthritic... but, I'll crawl back under in the morning and try again.
While I was working on it, before, I removed the cover and watched the clutch/throwout bearing while my Wife pressed the clutch and when the clutch is released the slave-return-spring pulls the bearing back away from the clutch plate fingers - there's (I'd estimate) about 1/8" between the bearing and the fork, when the clutch is released.
Click to expand...

I'm surprised you couldn't wobble the clutch fork a little with your fingers Danny ... especially with the return-spring off.

But remember the movement there at the slave end is very small (0.12" to 0.16" as shown in the image above). This small movement is amplified at the throwout-bearing end though.

I suspect the 0.15" (or whatever) movement you have was so small you didn't notice it.

(One reason why millimetres are part of a better distance-measurement system :D)

:beer:
 
That's fine , as long as there is clearance between the bearing and the clutch cover fingers it's all good . The initial engagement point is a bit of a confusing subject to a lot of people - the nearly 1" distance at the top is what allows the clearance between the clutch cover fingers and bearing - doesn't have a lot do to with where the clutch actually starts to move the truck when in gear . With some adjusting , I've been able to get mine to start really loading the engine just under the halfway point in the pedal travel - still higher than I'd like but it works just fine . Biggest thing is that clearance between the bearing and cover to keep it from running the bearing all the time - they are not meant to run at full engine rpm's . These things aren't really meant for us with arthritis , but sure put a smile on your face !
Sarge
 
Just fyi -
Due to a construction accident in '06 my knees do not bend like they should , nor like being bent . The high clutch issue almost forced me to sell the rig , but I like to fabricate and saw this as a challenge . I simply swapped the rear bucket seat mounts around and added some simple spacers to raise the seat a bit . The front required a spacer/extension to make it work - a common practice for long-legged Cruiser owners . Between moving the seat back and raising it slightly it makes the whole thing a lot more comfortable or at least so I can tolerate it for a couple hours at a time for short trips . I need to take the seat out and modify the locking stop to bring the upper back angle forward a bit - I have to sit nearly straight up and down so the stock 18* angle doesn't work for me . Not to mention I'm sitting with my head right at the b-pillar point in the cab . It makes it pretty tough to see high-mounted stop lights , but it works ...
Sarge
 
Creative, Sarge (@Weber Sarge)!!

Since we're telling 'tales from the nursing home' :p...

My problem, with driving distances (in any vehicle) is with my hands and with my right hamstring.

My hands (arthritis) ache from holding onto the steering wheel and continue to ache for days after a drive. I tried a padded steering wheel cover and it helped a bit, but when I installed a 'spinner' or 'suicide knob', the problem was completely resolved - I can drive left-handed all day with the spinner and never notice it!

My right hamstring starts to burn (bursitis in my right hip), in very short order, from holding the accelerator down. Before long, my entire leg is on fire. With our newer vehicles, I simply use cruise control or make Dianna drive in town.

With 44, I installed a hand throttle and it's made all the difference in the world. I'm able to use it drive highway speeds (outside of Vegas) for short distances to allow the fire to subside. I thoroughly enjoy it on very rugged roads and trails, I am able to control the entire drive, via my hand throttle, including shifting gears.

I have two lumbar discs, that are almost completely degenerated, that make my left hip ache when I stand or walk, but I just deal with that or Gunner wouldn't get to hike any more and he loves his hikes!! And my left hip isn't bothered by the clutch - a good thing!!

Have a great day!!
 
I adjusted my clutch upper pedal stop to drop the pedal height to less than 2/3 stock then adjusted the m/c rod to barely let the mc open. Works great- full travel/play etc. Just have to keep close eye on adjustments. Bad hip couldn't bring foot up onto pedal. Hip replaced 9 days ago. 80 is handy right now. Makes you appreciate all the grab handles all over inside it.
 
Sounds like we could pass for a bunch of old crows on a fence. An on the job accident six years ago left me with low back and left side sacro-iliac joint problems. Good ol American ingenuity is what makes things work for people like us who are not "all there" anymore. Thankfully the 40s are good for us, and easy, to modify.

BTW, my dad went through hip replacement a number of years ago. I think that was the best thing he could have done. After recuperation he really improved tremendously in mobility and his whole outlook on life.

Don
 
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pngunme said:
Hey!! I'm all there!! I didn't hit my head!! :bang:
Click to expand...


Still not so sure about that Danny as you still have that 40 addiction going on that leaves you totally koekoe


:cheers:
 
pngunme said:
Creative, Sarge (@Weber Sarge)!!

My right hamstring starts to burn (bursitis in my right hip), in very short order, from holding the accelerator down. Before long, my entire leg is on fire.
With 44, I installed a hand throttle and it's made all the difference in the world.
Click to expand...


Sounds familiar, old crows on a fence it is. I do need to build a hand throttle, that would sure help. :beer:
 
myquestoyota said:
Sounds familiar, old crows on a fence it is. I do need to build a hand throttle, that would sure help. :beer:
Click to expand...


$36.75 and free shipping THIS is what I installed .. I can work it with my index finger and thumb, while shifting gears with my right hand.I don't have a hand-throttle-ready accelerator, so I went down the gear shift, thru the fire wall on the passenger side. Then looped it over the valve cover (under the air cleaner) and came directly at the bellcrank (in the accelerator linkage). I connected to the existent hole in the bellcrank in a fashion that allows me to easily disconnect it, when I need to remove the valve cover. Easy install, just don't put a kink in the cable and you are good to go!
 
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