Residual valves on a 1993 Master cylinder (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter H2o
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ntsqd
technerd
Typically they are under the brass sealing cone in each port.
Curious why you want to know this.
Curious why you want to know this.
ntsqd
technerd
Method commonly found on the web, I've never had need to do it: Find a tap that would have that size hole as it's tap drill size or close and gently tap it. In the process you will slowly work the cone up and out of the Master Cyl. There will be a plunger and a spring behind the cone. Remove them, flush out any chips, and then reinstall the cone.
Location is where they are commonly found in domestic vehicles. I'll assume that Toyota puts them int he same place, but I don't know that for a fact.
Some conversions operate fine without it's removal. Others absolutely require it's/their removal.
Location is where they are commonly found in domestic vehicles. I'll assume that Toyota puts them int he same place, but I don't know that for a fact.
Some conversions operate fine without it's removal. Others absolutely require it's/their removal.
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- #6
thanks. I would imagine not removing it would only lead to premature wear of the brake components... there is a big difference between 2lbs and 10lbs of residual pressure.
On my fj40 MC, the residual valves could easily be removed by unscrewing a nut that held them in place. I am looking to replace the MC with this one.
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ntsqd
technerd
Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how much friction is involved. If it is a sliding caliper type design then it is more likely to not care about an 10 lbs RPV. FWIW I dimly recall that Toyota RPV's from drum brakes are less than 10 lbs., it is the domestic stuff and the wilwood inline RPV's for drums that are 10 lbs.
I forget that some of the Toyota M/C's are built that way. Certainly those you would simply unscrew to remove the RPV.
IF the copper crush washer used on some (all?) of those seems particularly hard you can anneal it by heating it in a propane flame until it starts to glow, then dropping it immediately into a cup of water.
I forget that some of the Toyota M/C's are built that way. Certainly those you would simply unscrew to remove the RPV.
IF the copper crush washer used on some (all?) of those seems particularly hard you can anneal it by heating it in a propane flame until it starts to glow, then dropping it immediately into a cup of water.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
Toyota supra, Early models also had 1 inch bore and 4 wheel disks. I usually use O'Riley's or advanced info page on master cylinders to verify the bore set up and brake type to be sure I order the right one.
Many disk brake factory set ups don't have a residual value so long as the master cylinder higher than the brakes. An adjustable prop valve may be needed for proper front brake lock up before the back brakes lock up.
Many disk brake factory set ups don't have a residual value so long as the master cylinder higher than the brakes. An adjustable prop valve may be needed for proper front brake lock up before the back brakes lock up.
