Resetting driver side window motor after replacement (1 Viewer)

[kingsalmon]

Hi Folks,

Replaced my factory motor with an A1 Cardone remanufactured less than 12 months ago which has failed. I received another under warranty and put it in today. I can get it to reset for the life of me -- I've tried removing the motor from regulator, attaching to harness, powering ignition on, and then going down until it stops, and up for 6 turns -- no dice.

I removed and cleaned my window runs and lubricated them with silicone. There doesn't seem to be excess friction. In addition, I cleaned and lubed the regulator and it moves freely.

I spoke with a dealer tech a year ago on this and he had another reset procedure he had me try -- something like putting window all the way up and holding for 5 seconds -- but unfortunately, that didn't work and I don't remember the precise procedure -- it did the trick last time when the standard procedure above didn't work.

The motor will go up and down a few times, but eventually will stop moving the window up at all. Only a minute or two rest and a car off/on seems to reset it and get it ready to go again -- but the same thing will happen again. Auto Up and Down do not work at all -- but normally would and did so after the special reset procedure that the dealer tech told me (that I can't remember)....

In any case, hoping someone out there can help!

Thanks,

--Michael

 

[tlcbtv]

Dang it!!
I am in the same spot!

 

[kingsalmon]

Any luck -- tlcbtv? I am manually putting mine up and down, but more than once and it hits whatever limits on upward movement, and I have to do the "wait" thing. I am going to my local Toyota dealer service department tomorrow to have a leak on my wife's minivan AC fixed -- and will see if I can make a few more inquiries while there.

I should add a few clarifying items with regard to my original post:

1) I can't get it to reset...
2) Standard procedures folks have oulined (take motor off regulator, power car off, use window up switch 4 seconds or 6 revolutions, re-attach motor to regulator, etc. -- doesn't work for me.
3) Motor works manually, but if you put it down, will sometimes stop while going back up after a try or two.... It seems to be hitting an up limit at some point...
4) Automatic up/down don't work at all...
5) I used a reset procedure given to me over the phone by a tech at my local dealership a year or so ago and it fixed everything -- but I didn't write it down and can't recall it from memory. I've tried a few things (window up and holding switch, window down and holding switch) all without any success...

Thanks,

--Michael

 

[ToyotaDon]

The issue you're having doesn't sound like the standard scenario requiring reset. When the window stops moving and you have to wait, it's more like the internal thermal override in the window motor getting tripped. Usually the jam-protection will hit the upper limits of travel, then roll back down partway.

Is the new motor exactly the same as the old motor? Does it even have the internal sensors for automatic control?

It would also help to know the year of your Land Cruiser, as the older ones required the motor-off procedure, and the newer ones reset via holding the switch up until the light stops blinking. For that, you roll it down, then hold it back up until it stops, then an additional 5 seconds. If the light was blinking before, it should go solid at that point.

HTH

 

[kingsalmon]

Well, my apologies it took me so long to reply on this one. I tried another A1 Cardone remanufactured motor (sent in the original for another), and had no luck with that one either -- it was even worse -- it would work for a few seconds and then refuse to lift at all. I would then have to either wait a long time for a reset, or lift the window a little by hand and advance the motor up just a notch, and repeat until the window was fully lifted...

Long story short, I decided heck with it, time to order the genuine Toyota part and return the rebuilt one (again) -- but waited until I had good weather and I good do it outdoors. I went to the local dealerships and was shocked to find out that they were charging so much for this motor. Went to CDan (thanks Larry H. Miller Toyota!) and found out they charged almost $50 less for the identical part before our MUD discount.

Got the part today, installed it, and followed Toyota Don's advice. (Incidentally, I have the 1998 model.) Quick steps after removing the door panel: lower the window so you can easily access the two bolts holding on the window (the right aligns with a hole through the door frame), remove the window, remove the motor+regulator Mark the relative position of the regulator arms and gears, remove and replace the motor (I needed to tap new threads with the old screws in the new motor), re-install the motor+regulator and re-install the window. Attach motor harness and re-attached two harnesses to window/lock control module.

I then powered on the car, lowered and raised the window, and held the switch to the full auto-up position and held for an additional 5 seconds. While I did not notice/observe and flashing light or light stop flashing, the window auto/up down now functioned as expected and the window worked flawlessly. While I don't know if it makes a difference (I haven't checked a wiring diagram to see what the small 3-wire connector is for -- I suspect it is for the passenger window lockout), I did make sure that both the primary and this additional harness were connected.

While I don't want to discourage anyone from trying remanufactured parts, it doesn't seem that these motors are common, I had absolutely no luck finding one through parts yards, most auto parts stores have to special order one if they can get it at all, prices are relatively high (best deal I found on a rebuilt was about $120), and ultimately, the original OEM Denso part simply worked.

Thanks to all for their help and assistance -- I hope this thread will be of help to you as well!

 

[Scalci]

i have the same issue. But still could not get this fixed.

 

[kingsalmon]

Just noticed I never did answer ToyotaDon's original question -- I have a 1998...

 

[Scalci]

Guys, I need help

I replaced the driver side switch, but still have issues. The window is now in the open position and does not do anything when I want to close it. The other windows work 100% individually and from the new switch...

Any ideas?

Rgs
Scalci

 

[TXLX100]

What was the failure that caused you to replace the switch?

 

[Scalci]

Does anyone have the pin layout for the power on the window motor? I want to test the motor if it runs..l

 

[Buu100]

Does anyone have the pin layout for the power on the window motor? I want to test the motor if it runs..l

Did you ever get a response to this question? I am trying to do the same test.

 

[Greenbean]

Just now seeing this guys, sorry!

This helped me, but now I need to re-program my “AUTO” feature.

 

[Greenbean]

Looks like I’m removing my regulator again soon, hahaha

I have a 2000 FWIW,

 

[Rolocado]

I hope no one has to go through this problem but if you do I hope you learn from my experience.

I installed the glass and motor three different times and the first two times, the window would roll down back to halfway. Right after I installed the motor and glass I pressed the auto up/down immediately- this screws up what the motor is thinking.

The key is to roll the window up (not auto) and down a few times so the motor learns where the stops are. After going up and down a few times, try auto up and down, and it should work.

This is of course after what the FSM says in the pages supplied by other people here. Hopefully that helps someone else. I was about to break my window after installing it the third time.

 

[ramangain]

Good post, helped me tremendously. Warning: some of the Amazon window motors don't work with this procedure. Mercifully, my issue was not motor related so I could just reuse the OEM motor.

 

[dack]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It's been super-helpful. Here are a few (hopefully) helpful notes:

* On BO-10, the FSM says to "Remove Door Belt Moulding." This is a total PITA and it turns out you don't need to do this to get the glass out. Just ignore this step.

* OTOH, carefully read every word of the FSM provided by @Greenbean here: Resetting driver side window motor after replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/resetting-driver-side-window-motor-after-replacement.611455/#post-11880588. The key points:

-- Separate the motor from the regulator and run it UP for 4+ seconds to reset it. I tried @Rolocado 's approach and it did not work. Follow the FSM.
-- When you reconnect the motor to the regulator, crank the "wheel" on the regulator until there's a lot of tension to achieve what the FSM calls "below the middle point."

Final thought: There is some discussion about rebuilt or aftermarket motors. For heaven's sake, you probably have several hours invested in removing the panel, the speakers, the glass, the regulator ... just get the OEM motor and have piece of mind that you'll probably never have to do this again.

 

[JZ100swamper]

I wish I read the final thought before I tore into this.

Has anyone successfully installed and reset / calibrated A-Premium brand drivers window motor ?


I have just installed and cannot reset using the steps above .

Please chime in if you had or did not have success with the A - Premium drivers window motor .


At this stage I think I will have to remove and find an OEM drivers window motor.

Hoping to hear from others before I bite the bullet on $400 new OEM