Research for my first 100 Series

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R

Rhythmdoctor

10 Year
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Threads
22
Messages
158
Location
Chicago
Hey fellas. I've done a lot of searching on here and have read such great info. I've been debating for a few days between the 80 and 100 and have settled on the 100. I have a FJ62 myself and now my wife wants a Cruiser. This will be her daily driver/kid-mobile, so I'm confident that the 100 is the right choice.

So, one thing I can't quite nail down in my search - and I'm probably not using the right keywords - is what year is the "best" year for the 100 series? I know there was a change beginning with the 2000 model year, so I think I need to be searching for 2000+. But a friend told me 2000 was a bad year. So should I really narrow my search to 2001+ or was he confused with the 98/99 model years?

Any additional info to help me get the best 100 series for my money would be much appreciated. This site is incredible and it's where I bought my current 62.

Thanks.
 
You should provide some basic info, like how much you want to spend? "Best" year will really be the newest you can afford. All model years have quirks, but all are pretty solid.
 
phsycle said:
You should provide some basic info, like how much you want to spend? "Best" year will really be the newest you can afford. All model years have quirks, but all are pretty solid.
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I'd like to spend under $10k. I've seen a few 100 series under $10k with relatively low miles. There's a 2002 year with just 111K going for $10.9K - I think I can talk them down to under $10k. That deal seems almost too good to be true.
 
At that $10k price check the interior, check to make sure everything works in the truck, check the tires, check to see if the timing belt has been changed. Drive it and see how bad the thud in the back axle is.. if it has the thud. I started off with a budget of $10k and bought for $17k but I am very happy with my truck
 
It doesn't look too bad but I'd be worried about rust issues in Chicago. I have seen several in the region that make their way down here and it isn't pretty after 13+ years. I'm not saying you won't find a 100 for less than $10k, but one with low miles, good history, good maintenance and little to no rust is very difficult to find for less than ~$11-$14k.
 
mcgaskins said:
It doesn't look too bad but I'd be worried about rust issues in Chicago. I have seen several in the region that make their way down here and it isn't pretty after 13+ years. I'm not saying you won't find a 100 for less than $10k, but one with low miles, good history, good maintenance and little to no rust is very difficult to find for less than ~$11-$14k.
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You bring up valid concerns and I appreciate it. Should I be looking mainly at the undercarriage for problematic (long-term) rust? I do think that $10K for a relatively low mileage 100 series seems too good to be true. I think I'm going to check it out tomorrow.

Thanks for looking out.
 
Rhythmdoctor said:
You bring up valid concerns and I appreciate it. Should I be looking mainly at the undercarriage for problematic (long-term) rust? I do think that $10K for a relatively low mileage 100 series seems too good to be true. I think I'm going to check it out tomorrow.

Thanks for looking out.
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Rust sucks - I learned to wrench on a Jeep that was pretty rusted and every time I broke a bolt I cursed it. A few years back when I lived in Vegas I had a BMW X5 that was bought new in the desert and when I went to do the brakes around 40k miles it literally looked brand new underneath and was the easiest wrenching I've ever done as a result. I will NEVER buy something with any significant rust again. If you have a mechanic to do all the work it's less important but they will still often charge more because it takes more time and parts will break more often.

I had a very rare opportunity to buy a very nice clean 99 100 series with 150k for $7k - long story but the girl was moving to Australia and was asking $10k I offered her $7k she said no, called me 3 days later and accepted but I was out of town so it didn't work out - but that is by far the exception and pretty hard to come by. Most people here with clean rigs waited for a long time to buy the right one. I looked casually for 1 year then looked hard for 6 months before I found the right one. Just be patient and don't make an irrational purchase.
 
mcgaskins said:
Rust sucks - I learned to wrench on a Jeep that was pretty rusted and every time I broke a bolt I cursed it. A few years back when I lived in Vegas I had a BMW X5 that was bought new in the desert and when I went to do the brakes around 40k miles it literally looked brand new underneath and was the easiest wrenching I've ever done as a result. I will NEVER buy something with any significant rust again. If you have a mechanic to do all the work it's less important but they will still often charge more because it takes more time and parts will break more often.

I had a very rare opportunity to buy a very nice clean 99 100 series with 150k for $7k - long story but the girl was moving to Australia and was asking $10k I offered her $7k she said no, called me 3 days later and accepted but I was out of town so it didn't work out - but that is by far the exception and pretty hard to come by. Most people here with clean rigs waited for a long time to buy the right one. I looked casually for 1 year then looked hard for 6 months before I found the right one. Just be patient and don't make an irrational purchase.
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Yeah, I'm really good about being patient. I looked for 3 years before finding my FJ62. It's my wife who is getting anxious as this will be her daily driver. I keep telling her we may not find anything for a year and she doesn't like that answer :)
 
Similar to RobRed, but I'm going to say "it depends"...

I myself have a 2003. It was the best truck for me, mainly since its a Daily Driver, has the 5spd, still affordable, but dont mind putting a dent or two in it since its not "pristine"

If you are building a rig to wheel, and have another car for a driver, I'd say 98-00 with rear locker.

Otherwise, an 03+ with the 5spd is a good starting point.

If you want a slightly enhanced model, then step up to the 04, where a newer DVD/Nav console, back-up cam, and rear seat DVD can be found.

If money isnt an object, get an 06 with VVTI and build to suit.

Slee has a nice informative guide to variations, etc. Please see here: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm
 
DJWUZJ said:
Similar to RobRed, but I'm going to say "it depends"...

I myself have a 2003. It was the best truck for me, mainly since its a Daily Driver, has the 5spd, still affordable, but dont mind putting a dent or two in it since its not "pristine"

If you are building a rig to wheel, and have another car for a driver, I'd say 98-00 with rear locker.

Otherwise, an 03+ with the 5spd is a good starting point.

If you want a slightly enhanced model, then step up to the 04, where a newer DVD/Nav console, back-up cam, and rear seat DVD can be found.

If money isnt an object, get an 06 with VVTI and build to suit.

Slee has a nice informative guide to variations, etc. Please see here: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm
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Just to clarify, this will not be an off road rig, it will be my wife's daily driver/kid-mobile. My search started with the 80 series but I have shifted to the 100 since comfort and kid transport is the main thing here.

I'm concerned that the 2001+ models have too much fancy electronics that could go out and cost too much to fix. I've also read (I think) that the 2000 models have tranny issues. Then of course, the 98-99 models have the weaker front IFS.

I'm trying to hone in on the perfect year. Thanks so much for the input.
 
RobRed said:
Well maintained / rust free 2000 or 2006 are the best years for 100 series.
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Do the 2000s have tranny issues or is that a myth?

Also, what is the downside of the 5spd? I thought I've read something about the 4spds being "better" but I can't remember the logic behind that opinion.
 
I got a 99 LX470 with ~150K miles last week for under $10K. Great one owner at the dealership. They had it listed for $15K and no takers for 60 days so they got flexible on the price. It's not 100% perfect for a 14 year old car but really, really nice. All maintenance by prior owner was done at the dealership and they provided me with details of all of it, including about $6k of suspension, drive axle, steering, etc. work done less than 10k miles and 6 months ago.

Dave
 
phsycle said:
Maybe a Sequoia would suit your needs better.
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No way!

I want it to be both. Daddy wants to take this thing out too, even if it will be her primary vehicle, I'm still buying:)

E2A: Actually, I don't know much about the Sequoia. I'm assuming it's 4WD (a must). What about the engine? Is it as reliable as the LC engines?
 
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phsycle said:
Maybe a Sequoia would suit your needs better.
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^This. j/k. Sequoia is part time 4wd and though it does have the "same" engine, it's not a Japan-built v8 an will likely have some issues like the Tundras did.


If it's for your wife and kids, to be a DD, then definitely get the newest one you can find. I also don't think you'll find a 2003+ with low miles good maintenance, etc for under $10 advertised price....if you do, then everyone in a 500 mile radius will likely also be looking at the same rig and it'll likely go fast. I would say you need to increase your price range to at least $15k based on all the Hundy's I've ever seen for sale (but I'm in CA where prices are higher and we don't have rusty rigs) and give extra time to find the right one.

When I bought my 02 back in 09, I had looked for 6 months trying to find the right one. One day I finally saw a good one selling for around $15k I jumped on it the same day the ad posted -- good thing I did because there were 5 other people who had plans to come by that evening. I got mine for $14k and that was a steal at the time IMO.
 
Honestly for your needs a Sequoia is likely the better choice. Way more cargo and 3rd seat room. A bit better gas mileage. And your budget will go much further buying a Sequoia than a LC.

That said, the LC is the superior vehicle build and quality wise.
 
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