Reproduction inner and outer brass axle bushings?

[foxfab]

Is there any interest in ball and claw inner and outer brass axle bushings? I'm going to be talking to a machine shop about having them made since these are no longer available from Toyota and there are no aftermarket sources that I've been able to find. Post up!

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

yes .

 

[Living in the Past]

Inner and outer bushings. I didn't realize there were two. Where are there and how do you remove/install them? I have a bare axle housings I was scapping out. I probably remove them first. I doubt I would need any. I believe with this stripped housing I have a dozen of these axles. Last time I had a chance to pick one up for free I passed.

 

[IDave]

You might want to check here before having them made, unless you are looking for 68+

 

[foxfab]

For now, I'm really after the outer bushings which none of the vendors have. Thanks to Cruiser Nerd, I have a new set of inner bushings for my fine splined ball and claw inner axles. I will try to order a set of early inner bushings from SOR to have as a back up and to copy when necessary, but if they do have any in stock, they wont be able to get any once they run out. They are definitely discontinued from Toyota.

 

[foxfab]

Ball and Claw axles do not have an inner axle seal. They have a brass bushing that acts as the seal. When this part wears out, the gear oil just keeps flowing out of the knuckles. The bushings are side specific and have a screw groove cut into the bearing surface for lubrication. The new bushings I have are stamped L and R on the face.

There is also a similar brass bushing that lives in the spindle for the outer axle stub shaft to ride on. These are the same for both sides and have an x groove cut into them for lubrication.

For removal, I made an attachment for my HF slide hammer.

I haven't installed a set yet but I bought a seal/bushing driver from HF which should do the trick.

Inner and outer bushings. I didn't realize there were two. Where are there and how do you remove/install them? I have a bare axle housings I was scapping out. I probably remove them first. I doubt I would need any. I believe with this stripped housing I have a dozen of these axles. Last time I had a chance to pick one up for free I passed.

 

[IDave]

When I did this the bushing went from a nice fit around the axle to a "no-go". This is what bronze bushings do. The correct thing to do then is to get a reamer and open it back up once it is in place. Finding a reamer that size is not easy. I ended up using a brake hone, but it's not perfect like a reamer would be.

 

[foxfab]

Did you use emery paper on the housing before trying to put the bushing in? Just wondering if I clean it up a little if it will slide right in and not deform. I wonder if I can find a socket to put in there snug to keep it from deforming? Or sacrifice an axle shaft, cut the end off and put it in the bushing while I tap it in?

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

I think the bushing is a press fit, when you press it in the ID decreases, I used a brake hone to get a slip fit. This also allows some tolerance if you need to resurface the axle face.

 

[Living in the Past]

I beginning to think it will be easier to just keep a few complete axles as spares

 

[foxfab]

I was also thinking that it might be easier/better to have a steel sleeve made to slide over the axle shaft kind of like a speedi-sleeve. Then see if the readily available birfield sized (larger ID) brass bushing would work as a replacement. This should work for the outer bushing. the sleeve would be locktited in place. I might try it. I'll talk to the machine shop and see what they say. They did say that the bushings would be easy to make though.

The inner axles I pulled out of my 25 were not worn, but the bushings were oblonged and worn to the point that they wouldn't hold gear oil in the housing.

 

[IDave]

It's definitely intended to be a tight fit (bushing compresses) and then reamed to exact tolerances. The deform process is what holds it in.

The same principle is at play for the rocker arm bushings if you've ever done them. You have to ream them out with an adjustable ream after installation to get them back on the rocker arm tube. With those, you get better oiling with the precise tolerance, and I expect it's the same with the axle bushings: the more exact the fit, the better the oiling and the longer the bushing lasts.

You might get by with a speedi sleeve on the axle, but if it isn't a precise fit, you may end up with the same leakage you have now. On the other hand, using a brake hone like Cruiser Nerd and I did may be no better than that.

 

[IDave]

Anyway, if you decide to have bushings made let me know. I'd like a set of the outers for sure.

 

[foxfab]

Well, some good news. I drove out a minitruck/late cruiser outer bushing and the dimensions are identical to the early outer bushing other than the ID. These bushings are still readily available and being made aftermarket already through marlin crawler. I'm going to shoot them an email to see if they can make them with a smaller ID. But if not, my machine shop seems to think that making a bushing to make up the difference is the way to go. I priced having the complete bushing made from scratch and it'd be about $100 each, too pricy IMHO for a small production run.

For the inners, the only difference between the outers and the inners seems to be the inner oil spiral groove versus the X groove of the outers. I'm not sure how to solve that one with an existing new bushing. If Marlins source can make the bushing with a smaller ID, then maybe they can change the oil galley design as well. I'll ask.

 

[IDave]

cool!

 

[foxfab]

for historical reference:

I dont have an ID dimension from a new bushing yet..

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Mike, I would think it would be easier and better to have a steel sleeve made for the axleshaft with the correct OD to match the late bushing and a press fit ID on the early shaft. Heat in an oven, slide over the shaft, let cool and install.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I priced having the complete bushing made from scratch and it'd be about $100 each, too pricy IMHO for a small production run.

Gents,

What are you willing to pay for a new, made from scratch, bronze/brass bushing? I'm sure I can make them for less than $100 each. I'm thinking closer to $150 per set of 4; $50 of that is material alone.

Mike, for bushing ID it is the same as axle OD. That's what gets reamed out when you fit the axle to the bushing. You need to add an overall diameter to your sketch too.

Nick Jennings

 

[IDave]

I'd bite. Would you let a fella rent a reamer when the time came?

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I'd bite. Would you let a fella rent a reamer when the time came?

IDave,

If I had a reamer to lend I would. Problem is those are $100 for a cheap import and $300 for a decent made in USA tool. And since I don't have a need for one myself I'm not likely to buy one. I am of the opinion a brake hone is just fine for sizing bushings if done carefully.

Nick