Replacing Tie Rod Ends

[super90]

I'm replacing the outer tie rod ends and tie rod boots. Cannot get the tie rod to separate from the knuckle. Soaked the joint in PB Blaster. I tried a pickle fork, but I guess it isn't big enough. Also tried smacking the knuckle with a mini sledge to break it loose. No luck.

In the FSM (page SA-20) it shows the whole hub disassembled to get the brake rotor and dust shield out of the way in order to get a puller on the tie rod end. Is that really necessary? Doesn't look like there is much room there to get a puller in otherwise. Maybe detach the steering knuckle by removing the two bolts holding it to the hub and then putting a puller on that?

Also, what puller are people using? The one I have used on other cars isn't big enough.

Thanks.

R.

 

[kennyao30]

I used a torch to heat up the bolt when I did my ball joints, it came apart pretty easy after heating.

 

[Mxndrnks]

I just used a full size hammer and gave it a few good sacks. Turn the castle nut upside down and thread till it is flush for a larger surface area.

 

[Gottagetone]

^ Bingo

 

[APKhaos]

Heat is the trick. Get a mapp torch from your local hardware. Done!

 

[2000UZJ]

Can the inners be replaced? What is acceptable play?

 

[marius]

Can the inners be replaced? What is acceptable play?

Yes you can but you need a special tool (42mm inner tie rod tool ,most you get is to small) for it, have done it not to bad .If you can still get alignment done you fine.

 

[super90]

I just used a full size hammer and gave it a few good sacks. Turn the castle nut upside down and thread till it is flush for a larger surface area.

Tried that. No luck. Getting out the torch for the old "Heat, Beat and Repeat".

 

[marius]

I use one of these two,have always worked for me.

 

[12guns]

I use one of these two,have always worked for me.

Those are great...put some pressure w/ the puller then smack the hell out of the knuckle right where the tie rod joint goes in. Try a regular hammer too, sometimes the faster "jar" of a smaller hammer is better for popping it loose. I used to not know the "smack with a hammer" trick and had trouble getting them off. Ever since enough smacks and it almost always breaks free.
Heat as mentioned, will help expand the knuckle itself, don't heat the bolt, you don't want that expanding inside the knuckle rather the knuckle to expand and turn lose of the tie rod bolt/bushing.

 

[2000UZJ]

I have a huge amount of play on the passenger side. You can rock the wheel back and forth about 1.5"( rocking at 9 and 3 o clock). The driver side is very tight. Would this be a worn out tie rod end?

 

[Gottagetone]

^ IIRC 12 & 6 is usually bearings and 9 & 3 is usually ball joints.

 

[2000UZJ]

^ IIRC 12 & 6 is usually bearings and 9 & 3 is usually ball joints.

I could see ball joints going on my truck. I cant tell on the street, but I'm sure if I replace something it will be a world of difference. Is there a way to tell which ball joints?

 

[super90]

"Heat, Beat and Repeat" worked. I'm afraid I fried the sensor wire that is just behind the steering knuckle. We will see.

As far as those pullers are concerned, I don't see how there is room for them to be used on the tie rod ends with the brake dust shields in place.

 

[12guns]

I have a huge amount of play on the passenger side. You can rock the wheel back and forth about 1.5"( rocking at 9 and 3 o clock). The driver side is very tight. Would this be a worn out tie rod end?

Yep, could be. Or could be a severly worn out wheel bearing, although you would have play in all directions if that were the case. Jack up the front end and wiggle the wheel while you are under the vehicle and you should see quuicly where the play is coming from. The inner tie rod end is inside the boot on the end of the stearing gear, but you can grab the boot and feel for play there as well. Good luck! Should be an easy diagnosis. If it is in fact the wheel bearing you will see movement around the hub/knuckle when you wiggle the tire.

 

[gtfour43]

^ IIRC 12 & 6 is usually bearings and 9 & 3 is usually ball joints.

Bearings will be all directions. Ball joints are easiest to check with a pry bar under a tire while supported by the frame. 3&9 sounds like one or both tie rods are shot.

2000uzj thats a lot of play!

 

[marius]

When last did you do a alignment?

 

[bluecruiser]

I use one of these two,have always worked for me.

X2...harbor freight sells these really cheap, too.

 

[2000UZJ]

When last did you do a alignment?

About 2 months ago. I was getting my tires rotated and the tech checked the bearings and found a huge amount of play at 9 and 3 o'clock. We came to the conclusion it was the inner TRE but I can say for sure

 

[gtfour43]

About 2 months ago. I was getting my tires rotated and the tech checked the bearings and found a huge amount of play at 9 and 3 o'clock. We came to the conclusion it was the inner TRE but I can say for sure

Should be easy to spot with that much play. Does the truck wander at speed? I would fix it asap or your tires could take a beating on the road.