Replacing Hubs? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Serina
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Drive flanges or hubs?
hoser
SILVER Star
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@Serina, take a look a the diagram above. If you're referring to the "axle hub with disc", there's no reason to replace it unless it's damaged. It serves three main functions: mounting surface for the brake rotor, along with mounting for the wheel studs and bearing housing for the wheel bearings. It also provides a mounting surface for the drive flange, which is what the axle shaft reacts against to drive the wheels.
Usually, unless there's been some significant impact event (hard wheeling or vehicle collision), there's no reason to suspect that a poor appearance is anything more than cosmetic. If it really bothers you, rust remover, a stiff brush (or two) and some paint will resolve that problem, for much less money than a new hub.
I'm making an assumption you mean the front wheels and not the rear of the 93 or older models which have drum brakes. To answer your first question (that took too long, didn't it?), OEM only, if the parts are still available. If not, you'll have to source a used part (from a salvage yard or someone who's parting out a truck).
Usually, unless there's been some significant impact event (hard wheeling or vehicle collision), there's no reason to suspect that a poor appearance is anything more than cosmetic. If it really bothers you, rust remover, a stiff brush (or two) and some paint will resolve that problem, for much less money than a new hub.
I'm making an assumption you mean the front wheels and not the rear of the 93 or older models which have drum brakes. To answer your first question (that took too long, didn't it?), OEM only, if the parts are still available. If not, you'll have to source a used part (from a salvage yard or someone who's parting out a truck).
Hub
Drive flange
Brake drum
Brake rotor
Drive flange
Brake drum
Brake rotor
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I sometimes get surface rust. I just use distilled white vinegar.
Aircraft stripper is for paint not rust. Most aircraft are skinned in aluminum not steel. If you own a drill get a brass wire wheel, if you don't own a drill, goodwill usually has them and sells them for cheap...get a wheel, not a cup, and use that to remove rust scale...then use OSPHO; you can buy it at most hardware stores. OSPHO will covert the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate which will be black in appearance...that surface can be left alone or painted with brake caliper paint
Last edited:
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Why not just blast and repaint?
Because then you have to find a competent blasting outfit, pay way more money to have whatever it is blasted, wait for it to be done, then if it's a hub and not a drum you have to spend forever cleaning the blasting media out of it. Wire wheel, cheap drill and OSPHO is about a 30 minute or less job for most of the parts listed... add paint and it's a whole day affair to do it right. Last time I sent a part to the blaster they took nearly 2 weeks to get the job done they said they'd have done in 4 days, and they still screwed stuff up. YMMVWhy not just blast and repaint?
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Not sure how you can screw up blasting a part. I tore down the whole front axle. Blasted hubs, steering arms/ knuckles right away (mid west truck so they were rusted) used some quick dry epoxy paint. Then started cleaning hardware and parts had it all back together in the same day/ night...12hours later I drove it out of the shop and went wheelin the next day.
I guess I should have said I had a blast cabinet and parts cleaner in the shop. Took me maybe 15 min to blast, maybe 5 min blowing out the media and another 30 to tape and paint. I always thought it was the best way to to it. My .02
I guess I should have said I had a blast cabinet and parts cleaner in the shop. Took me maybe 15 min to blast, maybe 5 min blowing out the media and another 30 to tape and paint. I always thought it was the best way to to it. My .02
I use Lysol toilet bowl cleaner Gel to remove rust. It has Hydrochloric acid in it. Squirt it on, brush on let it sit and work a few minutes and hose off. Evaporust works well too. They may take more than one application. Muriatic acid is Hydrochloric. You can get it at Lowes. Rubber gloves and eye protection mandatory.
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In my experience, phosphoric acid works much better, is a rust converter, not a remover. It turns iron oxide into iron phosphate, which is stable. Apply, allow to work, rinse, when fully dry, paint over it.
Commonly available and cheap, Like; Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot
Commonly available and cheap, Like; Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot
Exactly, just like ospho.
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Agree, but ospho brand is always expensive, like 4X, don't see the point. If more expensive phosphoric acid is the goal, you can do better, rust mort, por-15, etc, great way to waste $$, or get what you pay for, or...
Well now that you pointed out an alternative I will be looking into that next time I need to convert some rust.Agree, but ospho brand is always expensive, like 4X, don't see the point. If more expensive phosphoric acid is the goal, you can do better, rust mort, por-15, etc, great way to waste $$, or get what you pay for, or...
