I've just replaced the fuel tank on my 1976 HJ45 and wanted to share the process in case it is helpful to anyone else. If you're in the US and have an HJ45, you know it's not easy to find parts or know-how on these trucks.
A few weeks ago I noticed diesel leaking from the tank. I removed the tank and found a pin hole caused by corrosion. See pics below for the tank (which is original to the truck as far as I know) and the pin hole.
First challenge was to find a replacement tank. After some research, I determined that the correct tank is part # 77100-60012. It's available at Cruiserparts.net and other places: Fuel Tank New OEM Steel 1968-1972 W/O Vent Control [77100-60012 77001-60013] - $349.04 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
I was initially thrown off because Toyota and the retailers that sell these tanks say that this part is for model years 1968-1972 and my truck is a 1976. Perhaps in the HJ45s they continued to use this style for a few more model years.
There were two differences between this new tank and the original from my truck. First, the filler neck on the new tank has a ~90 degree angle while the filler neck on the original tank has more like a 45 degree angle. (note: this wasn't a big deal in the end, makes the hose fitting a bit tight, but hasn't caused any problems for me).
The second difference was more of a challenge. On the original tank, the nipple that connected to the fuel line was on the bottom of the tank and was a barb fitting (i.e. not threaded). On the new tank there is a male threaded fitting that is on the side of the tank. I somehow needed to fit a 3/8" (ID) hose to this male fitting.
The threads on this male fitting are British Standard Pipe (BSPP) meaning they have different thread count and thread size compared to most of the fuel line fittings that are sold in the US - it's not easy to find a barb adapter that fits these. To cut to the chase, I needed a 1/4" bspp female to AN-6 male adapter. Thanks to this post (#43) for that info: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/176046-sending-units-3.html
I purchased this part from Pegasus: BSP Female to AN Male Adapter - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
I then needed a female AN-6 to 3/8" barb fitting adapter to attach to the hose. Ended up going with Derale part 98200 which I found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XOR8T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After attaching these parts together, then fitting them to the fuel tank (be sure they are tight), then reconnect the fuel line hose to the barb fitting. The final setup looks like this:
Then I though, just fill it up with diesel and fire up the engine...wrong...I'm new to diesel engines, and I didn't realize that when the engine runs dry of fuel, you then have to bleed the air out of the fuel system before it will run again. Again I found a helpful post on how to do this here: Bleeding Diesel 'H' engine and injector pump oil.
From that post:
------------------------------
After adding diesel to your tank .....
-------------------------------
I followed those steps and the engine is now running smoothly.
A few weeks ago I noticed diesel leaking from the tank. I removed the tank and found a pin hole caused by corrosion. See pics below for the tank (which is original to the truck as far as I know) and the pin hole.
First challenge was to find a replacement tank. After some research, I determined that the correct tank is part # 77100-60012. It's available at Cruiserparts.net and other places: Fuel Tank New OEM Steel 1968-1972 W/O Vent Control [77100-60012 77001-60013] - $349.04 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
I was initially thrown off because Toyota and the retailers that sell these tanks say that this part is for model years 1968-1972 and my truck is a 1976. Perhaps in the HJ45s they continued to use this style for a few more model years.
There were two differences between this new tank and the original from my truck. First, the filler neck on the new tank has a ~90 degree angle while the filler neck on the original tank has more like a 45 degree angle. (note: this wasn't a big deal in the end, makes the hose fitting a bit tight, but hasn't caused any problems for me).
The second difference was more of a challenge. On the original tank, the nipple that connected to the fuel line was on the bottom of the tank and was a barb fitting (i.e. not threaded). On the new tank there is a male threaded fitting that is on the side of the tank. I somehow needed to fit a 3/8" (ID) hose to this male fitting.
The threads on this male fitting are British Standard Pipe (BSPP) meaning they have different thread count and thread size compared to most of the fuel line fittings that are sold in the US - it's not easy to find a barb adapter that fits these. To cut to the chase, I needed a 1/4" bspp female to AN-6 male adapter. Thanks to this post (#43) for that info: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/176046-sending-units-3.html
I purchased this part from Pegasus: BSP Female to AN Male Adapter - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
I then needed a female AN-6 to 3/8" barb fitting adapter to attach to the hose. Ended up going with Derale part 98200 which I found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XOR8T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After attaching these parts together, then fitting them to the fuel tank (be sure they are tight), then reconnect the fuel line hose to the barb fitting. The final setup looks like this:
Then I though, just fill it up with diesel and fire up the engine...wrong...I'm new to diesel engines, and I didn't realize that when the engine runs dry of fuel, you then have to bleed the air out of the fuel system before it will run again. Again I found a helpful post on how to do this here: Bleeding Diesel 'H' engine and injector pump oil.
From that post:
------------------------------
After adding diesel to your tank .....
- Open the bleed valve on the top of your fuel filter and operate your primer pump to force the air out until you have diesel (instead of air) up to that point.
- Close this bleed valve WHILE DIESEL IS STILL ESCAPING (at which time you can stop pumping the primer).
- Open the bleed valve on your injector pump and recommence pumping your primer pump to extend the diesel up to that point.
- Again, close this bleed valve WHILE DIESEL IS STILL ESCAPING.
- Get someone to crank your engine while you "crack" the fuel-line-connection-nut on the top of each injector in turn. (Closing each one when you see fuel escaping.)
-------------------------------
I followed those steps and the engine is now running smoothly.
