Replacing broken choke cable on my '85 FJ60. (1 Viewer)

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My original choke cable finally gave out. I was able to purchase a new OEM cable (78310-90A04) from Toyota for $62. Installing it was easier than I thought it would be, so the month I spent procrastinating was unnecessary. I started to loosen all the bolts/screws on the driver's side dash before I realized I didn't have to remove any of it. You can simply unscrew the choke knob, then the retainer nut, and remove the cable from behind the dash. Next, you will have to carefully disconnect the wire that lights up when the choke is enabled. I cut the old cable to make it easier to get thru the firewall. I left the engine side old cable as is so i could snake the new cable into the identical location. Fed the new cable thru the firewall from the inside, and re-installed the dash components and plugged in the wiring harness. After re-tracing the cable thru the engine compartment, I was able to connect the new cable to the carb. Last, from the floorboard, i pushed the rubber grommet (comes on new cable) into place in the firewall using a blunt tool so as not to tear the new grommet. That was all. If you are young and flexible, it should take no longer than fifteen minutes to replace the choke cable. Hope this helps.
 
My original choke cable finally gave out. I was able to purchase a new OEM cable (78310-90A04) from Toyota for $62. Installing it was easier than I thought it would be, so the month I spent procrastinating was unnecessary. I started to loosen all the bolts/screws on the driver's side dash before I realized I didn't have to remove any of it. You can simply unscrew the choke knob, then the retainer nut, and remove the cable from behind the dash. Next, you will have to carefully disconnect the wire that lights up when the choke is enabled. I cut the old cable to make it easier to get thru the firewall. I left the engine side old cable as is so i could snake the new cable into the identical location. Fed the new cable thru the firewall from the inside, and re-installed the dash components and plugged in the wiring harness. After re-tracing the cable thru the engine compartment, I was able to connect the new cable to the carb. Last, from the floorboard, i pushed the rubber grommet (comes on new cable) into place in the firewall using a blunt tool so as not to tear the new grommet. That was all. If you are young and flexible, it should take no longer than fifteen minutes to replace the choke cable. Hope this helps.



:)Great TECH Write UP

SOLID TOO !



Would You Mind Posting This EXACT , as you in your own words above , simple copy and Paste , in Mark's and My Shared CHOKE CABLE Variations Thread in 40 Series TECH ?

It would Greatly benefit others , and i dabble and stray into the whole FJ60 Choke cables here as you will see

Please .........

I would be Humbled personally have you post this here / there , LINK BELOW .........😇

please review the entire thread , and you will understand more clear why i ask .........



Thanks very much


kindly
matt ....
 
My original choke cable finally gave out. I was able to purchase a new OEM cable (78310-90A04) from Toyota for $62. Installing it was easier than I thought it would be, so the month I spent procrastinating was unnecessary. I started to loosen all the bolts/screws on the driver's side dash before I realized I didn't have to remove any of it. You can simply unscrew the choke knob, then the retainer nut, and remove the cable from behind the dash. Next, you will have to carefully disconnect the wire that lights up when the choke is enabled. I cut the old cable to make it easier to get thru the firewall. I left the engine side old cable as is so i could snake the new cable into the identical location. Fed the new cable thru the firewall from the inside, and re-installed the dash components and plugged in the wiring harness. After re-tracing the cable thru the engine compartment, I was able to connect the new cable to the carb. Last, from the floorboard, i pushed the rubber grommet (comes on new cable) into place in the firewall using a blunt tool so as not to tear the new grommet. That was all. If you are young and flexible, it should take no longer than fifteen minutes to replace the choke cable. Hope this helps

Thank you for tye information, I still do not know how to remove it off the carb. To install the new one. Is it a screw on the carb that I didn't see.
 
Thank you for tye information, I still do not know how to remove it off the carb. To install the new one. Is it a screw on the carb that I didn't see.
The choke is connected to the carb in two places. First the end of the cable has a round boss (little hunk of metal) that fits into a hole on one of the linkages near the top facing the firewall. Second, the cable housing (the black outer wrap) is clamp down on an arm hanging off the back corner of the carb closest to the firewall and valve cover - that's where you'll find a screw that needs loosened first. Next you can manipulate the cable and boss to pull it free from the linkage.

Green circle is where the boss goes. Purple circle is where the clamp for the end of the cable housing goes (do NOT clamp it too tight or it will smash the cable inside and bind it) - it's the piece more to the background, not the vertical rod with the spring. Black is where the cable is routed.

Screenshot 2023-12-12 142806.jpg


Here's the undoctored image:
1632405398390.png
 
The choke is connected to the carb in two places. First the end of the cable has a round boss (little hunk of metal) that fits into a hole on one of the linkages near the top facing the firewall. Second, the cable housing (the black outer wrap) is clamp down on an arm hanging off the back corner of the carb closest to the firewall and valve cover - that's where you'll find a screw that needs loosened first. Next you can manipulate the cable and boss to pull it free from the linkage.

Green circle is where the boss goes. Purple circle is where the clamp for the end of the cable housing goes (do NOT clamp it too tight or it will smash the cable inside and bind it) - it's the piece more to the background, not the vertical rod with the spring. Black is where the cable is routed.

View attachment 3505460

Here's the undoctored image:
View attachment 3505461
Thanks man. That was helpful
 

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