Replacing All Soft Brake Lines - Tips? (1 Viewer)

[bicycleagent003]

Hey All,

I am replacing all the soft brake lines in my truck this weekend with OEM hoses (thank you, Cruiser Addiction out of Ontario, Canada), and I'm soliciting suggestions. Specifically, should I try to keep some fluid in the system? How much fluid do I need to buy to do this job, and any particular fluid you would recommend? I've never really done much brake work, just flushed the fluid a couple times. I did buy the Motive pressure bleeder, so I plan to use that.

So, please fire away with any tips you have. I'm all ears. I've read a few threads on this topic, so please don't flame me for not using search.

Thanks
Russ

 

[cartercd]

1. Make sure you have a flare wrench. In fact I found having a few different brands was helpful, as some fit better than others.
2. There are other threads on optimal brake fluid, but DOT 3 is perfectly adequate.
3. I'd buy 2 of the 32oz bottles and thoroughly flush the system. Follow the FSM on bleeding sequence. Don't forget the LSPV.

 

[elhombre]

I 2nd the flare wrenches. They should be considered REQUIRED for doing brake line jobs. Walmart DOT 3 fluid is fine. Buy 3 quarts, but most likely only use 2 of them. They are cheap.

One thing I would add is that the fittings don't need a lot of muscle to make then seal up tight. The flare fittings are "soft" metal, and the contact surface area of the actual cone is relatively large. Too many times people crank down on the flare fittings and cause them to distort, messing up the fittings.

Lastly, be very patient when starting the line into the fittings. Only use your fingers to get it started and run it into the fitting. The threads are "fine" (not course) and it is easy to cross thread them when getting them started. That fancy flare wrench should only be used to do the final tightening.

 

[clx16]

What they all said, but I would add that the fluid isn't good on paint so if you get it on paint. wash it off quickly.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Okay, check on flare wrenches. I've got those, and the Vise Grip which is specifically designed for brake lines.
What's the consensus on whether I can or should try to keep fluid in the system? It seems futile to try, but I have no idea what I'm doing, which is why I'm posting.

 

[paulzak]

Apparently, if you use a stick or prop to hold down the brake pedal a valve in the master will hold the fluid in it. While it's best not to drain the master, it isn't fatal if you do. Also, don't forget to bleed the load proportioning valve. I haven't tried the holding down the brake trick but I will next time. It makes a bit of sense.

 

[Rwhat]

As long as you keep the cap on you should be good. Replaced all of mine. Don’t be surprised if your LPSV is leaking. Try spray all of the fittings first with some PB blaster. If you mess up any of the hardline fittings It’s gonna suck. Did that on the front passenger years ago. Good time to rebuild the calipers.

 

[Aloha80]

I just got done with this (and am dealing with follow-on BS like finding out my caliper piston boots are torn).

x2 on all the above.

I went through about a gallon of fluid with the Motive bleeder, but I was being super careful to bleed every tiny little bubble. I didn’t touch the LPSV which may have been an error, but the brakes are operational nonetheless. I found that I needed to start each bleed with about 15psi to really get things moving, although others recommend about 10.

Also may be helpful to have spare bleeder nipples on hand. One of mine was corroded and clogged, a quick swap fixed that right up. Also, on previous bleeds, I had one that was corroded such that it was rounding off, even with a line wrench. Having another on hand made that no sweat.

I didn’t worry about keeping fluid in the reservoir. I also thought a lot about this and concluded that air was gonna get in the system no matter what, since you’re pulling entire lines.

I found it really helpful to remove the brackets that hold the flexible hoses before threading the flexible hose onto the hard line. It gives you more space to maneuver, and as others have said, these are not fittings you want to cross thread. The whole job was an exercise in patience, and I’m more of a smashy-smashy mango tree mechanic myself, so if I could do it I’m sure you’ll have no trouble

 

[SNLC]

Good advice here.

Make sure to change all crush washers too. These are not a reusable part.

Cheers

 

[LandLocked93]

I just did mine as well. I used a box end wrench without issue (and the occasional crescent wrench application), tho the flare wrenches are indeed the right tool.
I did one line at time, starting with the chassis2axle line up front. In an effort to flush as well, I kept the reservoir full and just pushed fluid thru the line (brake pedal method) till it was airless (and cleaner fluid). Connected and moved out to each wheel line, repeating the same method.
I skipped messing with the LVSP and moved to the rear chassis2axle line when the 3 front lines were complete.
I also removed the lines from each bracket to make things easier.
I used one quart of fluid in the process.
The bleeder valves on the calipers can be refreshed and reused if they are clogged (paperclip/oil eater). Replace them if they are damaged in some way.

In the end, the brakes worked. But I highly recommend a proper bleed job with a machine (only $50 at Brakes Plus) and they actually do flush the system for that price. Heck they even cleaned out my reservoir bottle. The machine bleed job removed about an inch or two of pedal travel.

edit: i realize you're doing rubber lines, but when I priced them out Toyota OEM cost more than the stainless sets available from Wits End or Slee Offroad (both are excellent, just happened to go with Slee for local business). Plus both of these come with extended length lines for lifted rigs. There are kaveats to stainless lines, tho my intended vehicle purpose should never reveal them.

 

[Rwhat]

Anyone use a Autel MK808 Scanner to bleed/active the ABS?

 

[jatree]

edit: i realize you're doing rubber lines, but when I priced them out Toyota OEM cost more than the stainless sets available from Wits End or Slee Offroad (both are excellent, just happened to go with Slee for local business). Plus both of these come with extended length lines for lifted rigs. There are kaveats to stainless lines, tho my intended vehicle purpose should never reveal them.

Thanks for the info, I'll probably be doing soft lines along with front calipers and rotors as my Fall or Winter project and I hadn't considered stainless brake lines. I probably shouldn't be surprised that the OEM rubber ones are expensive but I am.

 

[ZackR]

I recommend doing one at a time and keeping fluid in the system.