Replaced valve cover gaskets, still seeing smoke, need some suggestions (1 Viewer)

[mokrunka]

Hey folks. 205k miles on my truck. This is my second week of ownership. First week I did all the fluids, this week I tackled valve cover gaskets, as they were leaking badly and there was smoke wisping up from the exhaust manifolds. There is old oil all over the areas below the valve covers as well, so I think they’ve been leaking a long time.

Since this is a new to me truck, I didn’t pay enough attention/wasn’t familiar enough with the amount of smoke and exactly where it was coming from.

So, today after finished the passenger side and waiting 2 hrs for the sealant to dry, I again saw smoke. I’m panicking bc it was a pain to replace, but I know there was smoke on the manifold beforehand. I’m going to try running my hand along the back to see if there’s any oil seeping out like maybe the gasket fell out of the groove or something.

But, I also didn’t make an attempt to clean the manifold. I figured the residual oil would burn off quickly, but now I’m wondering if xxx miles worth of oil soaking into the manifold will burn and smoke forever more? Any suggestions on how to clean the manifolds? Should I just expect this to leak forever; or will it eventually burn away?

The areas on the head that underlap the valve cover are still clean, so no leaks there, I just really worry those damn half moons are leaking somehow.

Thanks from a new cruiser owner.

 

[excessive]

unless you used 11 cans of brake cleaner to clean all the old caked-on oil that had built up on and around where the valve cover gaskets were leaking - you will probably have oil smoke for quite some time until all of it burns off of the exhaust manifolds.

 

[Fairgame]

Did you replace the exhaust gasket or just use a sealant?

 

[mokrunka]

thanks for the responses. I did not replace the exhaust gasket at all. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and half moons, using the Toyota seal compound on the half moons, and on the front of the heads as directed in the FSM.

I took a mirror to it today to check the back around the half moons and do not see any signs of leaking. I didn't bother cleaning the manifolds because I figured it'd burn off quickly now that there is no fresh oil accumulating. maybe i'll hit it with some brake cleaner and see if that helps.

 

[TheBussman]

if you don't see any oil leaking then it just needs a good long drive and it will burn off.

 

[Mike NXP]

thanks for the responses. I did not replace the exhaust gasket at all. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and half moons, using the Toyota seal compound on the half moons, and on the front of the heads as directed in the FSM.

I took a mirror to it today to check the back around the half moons and do not see any signs of leaking. I didn't bother cleaning the manifolds because I figured it'd burn off quickly now that there is no fresh oil accumulating. maybe i'll hit it with some brake cleaner and see if that helps.

It sounds like you were thorough enough to get it done right. You should be good and luckily you will be able to visibly see a leak if for some reason it may still be leaking.

I'm also not a big fan of douching stuff with brake cleaner, especially around anything rubber. Spray some foaming degreaser made for the engine bay in there, let it soak for a few, and hose it down. This should take away any gunk still burning unless it's really caked on there. Post a picture if you'd like.

PS - Sometimes grease from front drive line spits up and hits exhaust and causes a burning smell.

 

[mokrunka]

Thanks Mike. Yeah, there is some grease, since I did that the weekend prior, but this is definitely from the old valve cover. I definitely saw where it was leaking before changing them, and those areas remain clean. Just a bit tough to see back behind the half moons, where I was really worried. It's a little bit of an art any time you use tube gaskets, and getting it right twice (per side), and cleaning the gunk out took me probably an hr per side, and I'm still not sure I got it all. My back hurts, lol.

I'll drop a picture in when I get home of the area that had existing oil (and still does). I'm also leery about just sending brake cleaner in there, especially around all the rubber hoses and such, not to mention my precious new gaskets. Spraying a hose on the exhaust is ok? I'm also leery about water in there since all the electrical connections are 22 yrs and 200k old.

 

[mokrunka]

Bit tough to see much, but here's one of driver and passenger side. I tried to show the bottom of the head (which are still clean), and the location on the manifolds of the leaks from before the swap.

 

[2001LC]

I "suspect" you've a 98-02. Which have a rubber grommet in BK1 HC, securing the PCV valve. It's import PCV valve, both BK1 & BK2 hose and grommet. All be in proper working order.

Most any degreaser, sprayed on engine than power washer off, will get it clean. I like to start washing with engine & radiator cold. Then as I get to sensitive areas, I start the engine and keep washing.

Sensitive areas:

• Avoid spraying: alternator, fan/serpentine belt and pullies. Having engine running when washing near them, helps spin off water.
• Electrical connection. Keep HP water moving across them, don't hold spray on them.
• Top of engine: HC, intake manifold to HC valleys and block valley. Wash with front of vehicle higher. So water getting into valleys and on HC flow to back. Do not use to much water or soaps on HC around coils. Until after, coil top seal & boots replaced. Or water washes into spark plug tubes. (Tip: Use air pistol to blow out spark plug tubes, before removing spark plugs.

Avoid:
Firewall. HP water will blow holes in mat.
Hood underlining, will absorb water, then fall down from extra weight.

 

[mokrunka]

I "suspect" you've a 98-02. Which have a rubber grommet in BK1 HC, securing the PCV valve. It's import PCV valve, both BK1 & BK2 hose and grommet. All be in proper working order.

Most any degreaser, sprayed on engine than power washer off, will get it clean. I like to start washing with engine & radiator cold. Then as I get to sensitive areas, I start the engine and keep washing.

Sensitive areas:

• Avoid spraying: alternator, fan/serpentine belt and pullies. Having engine running when washing near them, helps spin off water.
• Electrical connection. Keep HP water moving across them, don't hold spray on them.
• Top of engine: HC, intake manifold to HC valleys and block valley. Wash with front of vehicle higher. So water getting into valleys and on HC flow to back. Do not use to much water or soaps on HC around coils. Until after, coil top seal & boots replaced. Or water washes into spark plug tubes. (Tip: Use air pistol to blow out spark plug tubes, before removing spark plugs.

Avoid:
Firewall. HP water will blow holes in mat.
Hood underlining, will absorb water, then fall down from extra weight.

Yep, early 98-02 (pre 08.2002). I replaced the PCV valve and grommet on the driver's side. I have the hoses on order from partsouq, which someone else just informed me of - great website!

I appreciate the tips. There's a lot of caked on grime, grease, and oil in the engine diaper area that needs attention. I'm going to chip away at it as I work my way around replacing hoses and such.