What is involved in replacing the valve cover gasket on a 1997 LX450? Will it come off after removing the intake hose, or does a bunch more stuff have to come off. Don't want to start today if it's going to turn out to be more that a remove bolts and lift off job. Thanks
??Replace Valve Cover Gasket? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ed Purmals
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I didn't find it to be a terribly complex process. I took off the intake hose and then removed the bolts holding the throttle body on the intake. Be careful of the gasket between them. Other items will come off but its not too bad. I just kind of dove in.
Good time to give it a good cleaning and replace the spark plug tube seals.
Not too bad to reassemble, just be careful about the gasket coming out of its groove as you move the cover around.
duggy
SILVER Star
I had the same experience as TEXASYETI. I just dove in and finished. You should replace the PCV valve, grommets and hoses as they will probably be rock hard.
WARNING !!! You probably already know this, but don't even mess with the PCV until you have the valve cover off. Otherwise you will be picking peices of it out of your valve train. Oh and go easy on your bolts, I think they take about 14 inch lbs to tighten or you risk snapping them off. Good luck
If you decide to replace spark plug tube seals, you need to allow for an extra hour or two. I recall them being a bit of a PITA to remove and replace. I think the trick ended up being to collapse one side in on themselves and then pop them out.
You should definately do the tube seals while your in there. A small chisel ended pry bar, like the 12" craftsman ones with a red handle will usually pull the old seals off with no problem. I think mine took about 10 minutes to do in this way.
duggy
SILVER Star
Why not use the $7 seal puller available at advance auto to pull these out? This tool can double to pull out your seals in the front axle when you do that also.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Since you are taking this all apart anyway I would replace any heating and cooling hoses at the fire wall now, BEFORE you pull off the valve cover. It will be easier to reach. Anything above the head gasket is probably shot due to heat anyway, may as well take care of it all at once.
Also remove the air cleaner box, gives you room to crawl up and sit in the compartment and work. you will thank yourself for the 10 min it takes to remove it.
Also remove the air cleaner box, gives you room to crawl up and sit in the compartment and work. you will thank yourself for the 10 min it takes to remove it.
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The PCV grommet if it breaks (which is likely if it is old and rock hard) does NOT fall into the valve train. There is an splash pan within the valve cover that it will drop into and is easy enough to fish out with forceps etc.
cheers,
george.
Is any sort of sealant recommended for this job, or just use the gasket by itself without any sealant?
I don't know about sealant on the VC gasket, but I suggest getting some Permatex hi tack gasket adhesive and using it on the gasket to keep the back portion of the gasket from slipping around when you install it. The stuff is messy, but it's only six bucks and it works awesome. And yes for sure replace the spark plug tube seals, and use a cheap seal puller to get the old ones out. My oil pressure has been more consistent since I did this job.
I don't know if you meant ft/lbs instead of in/lbs. I tightened my valve (cam) cover to 9ft lbs which is 108in lbs. Throttle body was 15ft lbs or 180in lbs.
I had to go back and look through my FSM, didn't find it. Then I looked through some other posts. Looks like 48 in/lbs on the low side to 108in/lbs high side. Either way, you can easily snap them with a 1/4'' drive socket. I snapped a rear one right at the end of the torque sequence and had to take everything back off to get the broken bolt out. I think when I put this next one back on I'm going to use a drop of some really mild Loctite, I've noticed these bolts like to back out over time.
Since your having all those components taken apart, I suggest getting some thermal tape and wrapping the wire loom that is closest to the EGR tube. It gets really hot there. I prevents you from having electrical issues in the future. I had the pleasure of having a short that made my temp gauge move like it was having a seizure.
I agree, buy some thermal wire wrap for fifteen bucks and wrap the wire harness. I wish I had done mine.
Do that, my gasket slipped out near the firewall, and got cut, and puked oil all over. I hate doing a job twice.
BullElk
SILVER Star
Is it necessary to drain oil before taking off valve cover? assuming that due to oil draining down over night it will make it unnecessary.
Overland Tailor
Boltripper
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No reason you have to drain, but I would think there might be small bits of dry and cracked gasket material and other such junk left in there after the replacement that I might run the truck a bit after and then change the oil - Anything would be caught in the filter, but why not over think everything anyway 
BullElk
SILVER Star
Good point. Thanks
So what have I forgotten as I replace valve cover gasket?
VC Gasket
TB gasket
Few VC screws
Spark plug seals
3/8 heater hose
TB cleaner
PCV valve, grommet and hoses
So what have I forgotten as I replace valve cover gasket?
VC Gasket
TB gasket
Few VC screws
Spark plug seals
3/8 heater hose
TB cleaner
PCV valve, grommet and hoses
Last edited:
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Unless they have recently been replaced, the PCV grommet and both hoses.
