replace metal water pipe back on motor (1 Viewer)

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I managed to snap off the plastic plug of the knock sensor that's next to the bottom PHH, so I recommend removing the knock sensor before you start. There's no opening to the interior of the engine behind the knock sensor, so it's simple to remove.

Incidentally, if you ever feel like your 1FZ-FE is sluggish, try unplugging your knock sensors and driving around. No ignition advance a makes it a total slug, like it's a 3F-E or something...
 
Remove wheel, splash guard, unplug sensor & move, I think also unbolt & move the dipstick tube (or was that when I did the fuel filter 🤔)

For me the biggest help was not having tree trunk arms - overall didn’t really think it was a PITA, just a little finicky. I’d rather do it than a lot of other things...
 
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I used a Craftsman Combination 12MM ratcheting wrench with the fixed angled end (not flex) and was able to get both bolts from the top.

I also cut a 2x6 to lay across the top of the engine to lay on while I reached over the head to get the bolts out.

I also replaced ALL my heater hoses and heater valve while I was there, so it was easier to get the bolts out with all the other hoses and valve out of the way.
 
With the tire and skirts off I actually didn't think the PHH was that bad as measured on my profanity meter.
 
Anyone who says they could get the top PHH pipe bolt out from above is either lying, delusional, or God's gift to mechanic-dom. :p
There may be one exception to above, a 1FZFE engine without an EGR pipe.

I tried every tool I had, went out and bought a few more, couldn't get to it from above (leaning over the engine from the left fender) so wiggled the PHH pipe back and forth until the top bolt tab snapped like most other mere mortals do.

I then decided might as well pull the valve cover to replace the gasket and spark plug tube seals, and with that out of the way the top PHH pipe bolt could easily be reached from the right side of the engine. FWIW

To SogaFarm: I learned from others it's much easier to get to the PHH with the transmission dipstick tube disconnected and pushed out of the way. If you go that way order a new Toyota O-ring for the tube before you start, generic O-rings will not fit.

You'll get even more room if you're removing the starter at the same time for replacement or repair.
 
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I bought a pancake 3/8 and 1/4 drive flex head ratchet to reach down in there.
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Its not overly rugged, but it got the job done.
Unbolted the wire harness, moved the coolant lines, and basically cleared the top side of the engine to get that one bolt. PITA.
Put in Joeys PHH re-route kit.
 
Anyone who says they could get the top PHH pipe bolt out from above is God's gift to mechanic-dom. :p
Thank you! I'll take that as a compliment!

I actually spent more time shopping for the specific wrench on here that everyone was saying it was the "must have" to do this. I bought the ICON version from Harbor Freight that had the 12 spline ratcheting head. The ONLY thing this wrench successfully did is to round off the corners of the bolt.

I seriously laid on top of the engine, used a standard Craftsman ratcheting combo wrench and did it blindly to take BOTH bolts loose from the top.

Wiring harness was still in place as was the EGR pipe. All the heater valve and hoses were out of the way though.
It took me close to 3 hours to get it done with a fair amount of cussing. Part of that time was climbing my fat ass up and down from the engine bay to pick up something I dropped, or because my shoulders hurt so damn bad being in that position.
 
Well the PIA little 12mm lower bolt finally broke loose.

I used a 15/16 box end wrench as a torque multiplier on the 12mm ratcheting swivel box end wrench. It must have taken 100lbs of force to break it free, but it's out.

I used most everyone's advice in some form or another, so thanks to everyone on here. I covered the wiring with plastic, cut the PHH with a razor knife, after using some 11 inch bent needle nose pliers to move the oem clamp away from the engine side, then just pulled the metal pipe out with the cut up PHH attached.

Now I can put everything back together including new heater hoses, new oem clamps, a new heater valve, and the old starter with new contacts.

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Welcome to the PHH Club! Its a very exclusive group. LOL;)
 

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