replace metal water pipe back on motor

Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
7
Location
san diego
I have a slow water leak and sourced a replacement pipe 87209 60381 but it looks almost impossible to replace with the motor in situ wondered if any other owners had tackled.
I found attached photo on another site but I would I think I have to replace the metal pipe which joins the short rubber hoes also.

Any help would be appreciated thanks
I found the attched photo showing the pipe joining the bock with short rubber hose.
HZJ80 metal water pipe.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2002
Messages
655
Location
The Saratoga slums, CA
^^ Yes. Here on Mud it's referred to as the PHH, or pesky heater hose. Named so because it is a pain to replace. It can be done, and most 80 owners who've been around awhile have tackled it. Search here in the 80s section and you will find lots of methods for repair. There is a small bolt holding that metal pipe to the back of the head that causes most of the grief.
There are several methods of replacement, from completely stock, to silicon hoses, to completely bypassing the metal tube with a 3 foot section of heater hose.
Read up, pick your poison, gather the needed tools and have at it. Good luck!
 
Joined
Jan 12, 2016
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143
Location
Australia
are you referring to the pipe that exits the Cyl head or the pipe that goes up?

the short PHH hose & pipe that goes up is a fiddly (pita) job but can be done in situ
 
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Jul 17, 2018
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1,646
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LUGOFF, SC
Helps to pull the drivers side tire and flex the axel down while supporting the frame.
Don't be afraid to get dirty, just contort yourself in there. You'll be working by feel for much of it as you reach in and have to clear your head away from the wheel well.
As stated above, it's a total PITA, but very doable with engine in place.
 

mudgudgeon

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Dec 17, 2007
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Across the pond, and upside down
PHH, Meh! There's worse things to tackle.

The worst part is working by feel, in a tight space. Takes some contortion to get to the 2x 12mm bolts that hold the hard line to the back of the intake manifold.

Ratcheting ring wrenches are your friend. Short ones even better.

As said above, working through the wheel well and rubber skirts is gonna help for some of it.

I used new OEM spring clamps for the hose.
New ones are good because they slip over the hose, push the hose into place, once you're happy, pull the little red clip off to release the clamp. Set and forget


3-4-OEM-Spring-Clamp__39524.1589082391.png
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2006
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79
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S.E. QLD Australia
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www.flickr.com
From memory, I replaced the PHH without going in through the wheel well, but that would probably make it easier. These pics show the PHH and metal pipe removed with engine installed: Pesky Heater Hose - 1FZ - https://www.flickr.com/photos/51113250@N04/sets/72157625644889402/with/5280224686/

My engine is relatively clean but it's still a dirty job, and as you can see, you'll lose some skin......

I used screw clamps secured using 1/4 drive socket.

On reassembly, start all the bolts before tightening. If you have alignment issues you can cheat by slightly oversizing the holes in the pipe retaining tabs. You REALLY don't want to cross thread a bolt....

A couple of mirrors and good lighting will help.
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
7
Location
san diego
Thank you all for the help and advise.
Yes I did manage in situ very tight in there would have helped if I had ratcheting ring spanners.
Spring hoes clamp made it easier.
Bob
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
754
Location
Georgia
I'm trying to get through this PHH change myself right now. It deserves its name and reputation. Big hands and small spaces don't go together. When it comes to engine space, the 1fz-fe sucks compared to the 2F. I've been procrastinating for two years on this PHH replacement job. End of rant.
IMG_2523.JPG
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
7
Location
san diego
To get the old one out with the top bolt removed I slipped a pry bar inside the old tube and bent it down so I could get to the lower bolt which is still difficult to get to I used a open end / ring and swivel took about an hour.
Wish I had ratcheting ring

FZJ80 PGG pipe.jpg
 

davidp14

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 24, 2017
Messages
1,022
Location
Staunton, VA
flex head ratcheting box wrench was helpful. I didn't put the 2nd bolt back in. also I unbolted the HCV and harness and pushed held them up and out of the way with zip ties.
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
754
Location
Georgia
Did you all access the lower bolt on the metal tube from the top or from the fender well? I've been trying from the top and can't get good leverage on the bolt.
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
7
Location
san diego
from the top with a swivel head and tube on the end for leverage
then access the rubber hose clamps fender well with front wheel off.
When replacing I should have taped the snap ring clamp in position before sliding new pipe in not easy to reposition clamp once clip released
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
754
Location
Georgia
I've got the Witt's End early version of the PHH with the gates hose and the big screw type clamps I bought a while back. I just ordered some OEM 5/8" spring clamps from Witt's End and will use them for the PHH instead of the big screw clamps because it sounds like it might be easier. I will use the tape method to hold the clamps in place until I spring them .
 

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