Replace head gasket or part out (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Looking to see if restoring to clean, safe and reliable makes sense or to just part it out.
After inspecting I drove for ~80 miles HWY & city. I'm Currently I estimate $1,600 to $1,900 to restore my cost (wholesale) in parts.

 

[PLROD]

cooling system pressure test and a compression test will further define the issue; it's not common practice to change one head gasket and the marginal cost of the second one is not as much as you might expect. if your intent is to remedy the issue (band aid) and get rid of it, try a bottle of head gasket sealer along with a coolant change and see if that works. I've had positive results with the NAPA blue stuff, forget the name, goes for around 60 bux for the quart, on a different engine but it did stop the leak - cannot say it will solve your problem but I'd try it b4 anything else.

 

[PLROD]

Thanks for the info.

Compression & coolant pressure test is good advise to further define. Doing both side is good thinking as well, THX.

I assume gaskets cost around $50. What I don't have a handle on is machine shop time for milling head, or if grinding valves, replacing spring, valve guides, seats or what will be even necessary with these robust engines. Any thoughts here?

I may indeed flip, but I'd inform any buyer of any issues I have found. Which would include use of additives if any. It just my way. So $60 bucks would be a waste, unless trying to nurse home. THX for tip on "blue" anyway.

a machine shop that does head work should be able to quote you a price wo seeing them for cleaning up the heads assuming they are in repairable condition, which is likely; the major expense of the work is the labor to R&R which it sounds like you are going to do yourself?

 

[PLROD]

just call a couple of places that specialize in engine machine work, they'll give you a ballpark then you decide. I'd guess if the heads just need trueing etc it should cost between 80 to 120 for each one. around here I know of some places that would charge you less than that.

 

[PLROD]

btw, i wasn't suggesting to use the sealer and sell it w/o giving notice; i'm the same as you on this in that i give total disclosure when i sell stuff. my point is that if your intention is on selling it, give the blue stuff a try and if it works, you never know, tell the potential buyer that it may need a head gasket job in the future, it was showing signs of leak and you used the sealer and it stopped. I can tell you that when I used this stuff on a 95 Tahoe with a 6.5 TD, the coolant consumption stopped completely. I sold the truck to a friend of mine giving him notice of what I'd done and he kept that truck for a few years and never had a problem with the head again. If your intent is to sell, there's no harm in trying this route and all you have to loose is the cost of the coolant and the blue stuff or whatever product you end up using.

 

[JayM]

Is this the LX you posted about in the what is it worth section? Did you ever get the ABS sorted?

Just rule of thumb for me, whenever I pull heads for a head gasket issue I would resurface and pressure test at the machine shop. Especially aluminum heads. I would expect to pay 200 for the pressure check and machine and do both heads.

 

[ponytl]

i'd re torque the head and pressure test the cooling system< a compression test won't tell you anything really in this case, I've been into a 300k 4.7 and saw NO WEAR and just out of being curious I measured end play/ side clearance thrust all at the crank I could still see hone marks in the bores and no signs of piston slap or pin heat... IF you have inspected the plugs and they show no signs of oil consumption I'd swap fluides and run her for as long as she'll go... if you have to put sealer in the cooling system to seal some small weep then it's fine many manufactures do this from the factory it's not rigging it's SOP
you are way over thinking this ... it it not a mid 70's GM product

 

[JayM]

One thing to keep in mind when tearing this down is you will likely have some broken exhaust manifold studs to deal with also. If you can still do that type of work yourself not a big expense but, additional costs at the machine shop if they deal with it.

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

I bought an '01 that had some dubious head gasket work done and by the time I got it down to the heads, it was just as easy to pull it. I ran the numbers on cost (and I'm a very good at finding deals) and it was an insubstantial amount more to purchase a used 120K engine.

Food for thought...

 

[Emcd]

I had ridge reamer build my SB Mopar. They do a great job. They're in NW Denver.

 

[ponytl]

you can buy a 100k engine complete for less than $700 you'd be crazy to even think about building on of these that only goes 300k when mistreated

 

[ponytl]

the work involved in a real leak down or accurate compression test is just not worth the time if the plugs read well... a good plug reading will tell you just about all you need to know about what goes on in the combustion chamber... and tell you zero about what is happening between mating surfaces that contain cooling fluids... the older the plugs the better... they need to be consistent looking more than anything if it's not tossing codes then you can assume all the electrics are performing within specs...

 

[nissanh]

I think you can get the head resurfaced, new valve stem seals and guides for around $200 (complete head job). I did it for my 4-cylidner 4afe engine. This was my first head gasket experience so I took 2-3 days with slow pace. You got a 98 so nothing to worry about the VVTi. I'd say try to get the head gasket fixed without trying sealers etc., You can use the same timing belt and other components. I didn't use new head bolts so I got a small compression leak into the radiator. I assume this leak is due to not using new head bolts, so I re-torqued the head bolts by 90 degree turn and off went the compression leak.

The additives can wear out the water pump seal in about 30,000 miles.

 

[2001LC]

Good point on plugs, they can be reveling. I do study, in fact photo graph (zoom is great for tried eye) them, before cleaning and testing.

If coolant is entering cylinder I'd get a plug that looks like?

 

[nissanh]

I got the T-belt kit for $225 without cam and crank seals from rockauto. The kit is Aisin, got Mitsuboshi belt, Aisin water pump, Koyo bearings etc., Yes, it surely needs seals.

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

I'm quite confident the reason that the head gasket job on my LC failed is that they didn't use new head bolts. They arenof stretch design and if you reuse them and torque them back to factory specs, it's probable they'll leak.

I think the main thing here is that you decide what your intent, purpose, and budget is for the truck, and that'll guide the decisions. Don't forget all the gaskets in between put together and down to the short block. You will need intake, water pump, valve cover, probably exhaust, and the myriad of hoses that crack as you pull them off a 300k engine. Not trying to discourage you, in the least, just relating my experience from last year.

 

[ponytl]

Good point on plugs, they can be reveling. I do study, in fact photo graph (zoom is great for tried eye) them, before cleaning and testing.

If coolant is entering cylinder I'd get a plug that looks like?

if coolant is entering the combustion chamber it doesn't compress it acts like a blasting agent it will remove all carbon build-up, So the plug will be cleaner than the others... on old really bad running cars I use to run em at about 2k rpm and run a steady stream of water right into the carb tons of crap would come out the exhaust and usually they would run much better after

 

[flintknapper]

If you decide for any reason to 'part out' let me know.

 

[ponytl]

you sure think about this stuff 90% of the cars i buy i never even drive i never counted but id guess 2-300 since HS 3 this month

 

[2001LC]

Have been lately, it's fun for me. But now winter has come so will be slowing down and moving them out one way or another.