Removing torsion bars (1 Viewer)

[ms018kmf]

I was wondering if I need to press out the torsion bar on the socket end. I searched a while last night and no threads mentioned anything specific about tools for removal. Brass punch, press, or nothing special required? I keep most tools in my storage unit, not home (my neighbors smoke crack rocks on the front porch).

Anyway I'm digging into them after work. Hope for the best, prepare for the undesireable.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I was wondering if I need to press out the torsion bar on the socket end. I searched a while last night and no threads mentioned anything specific about tools for removal. Brass punch, press, or nothing special required? I keep most tools in my storage unit, not home (my neighbors smoke crack rocks on the front porch).

Anyway I'm digging into them after work. Hope for the best, prepare for the undesireable.

Not sure exactly what you want to know. Are you asking about the torque rod? Are you asking how to remove the bushings? If so, it's pretty easy with a press. Just put a little grease on the outside of the new ones and they will press in very easy as well.

 

[ms018kmf]

I was more concerned with removing the torsion socket from the torsion bar, I've been into the adjuster before. Should have described it better, threw the thread up as fast as I could (at work). Got my answer though, thank you! Doing this during the work week would have been an issue if I dug into something unprepared.

 

[KLF]

Are you swapping in a new set of t-bars? Just curious...

But, yes the sockets at both ends are not a press fit, it's just a spline at each end. However, I have removed many sets of these and sometimes those sockets can get really rusted on. There is a small hole in the middle of the socket where you can squirt a rust penetrant (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc), let it soak, then apply some gentle heat and it should come off.

It is rare that the adjuster bolts don't snap when trying to take them out, no matter how long you soak them. I personally wouldn't start on this job without a spare set in waiting. You'll need a 22mm box-end wrench to hold the top nut while cranking on the bottom head with a LONG breaker bar. I usually duct tape it in place so it can't fall out. I also recommend stuffing a thick chunk of steel between the top end of the adjuster bolt and the floor of the cab, I have on more than one occasion seen the adjuster snap and the end of it fly up and poke a hole in the cab floor. Stay out from under the wrench too, if the bolt snaps it flys down pretty fast too, it would really hurt to have that thing bounce off a body part!

 

[ms018kmf]

I'm gona hold off until I snag some new hardware, thanks for the heads up. That would have caused a lot of problems. There are new bars going in, Sway Away's for long travel arms. I wanted to get Emu's from everything I read about the ride quality versus SAW's. The Total Chaos instructions specified to use SAW's, so I figure I'll do what they say for now. One less variable for the install, I've monkeyed with too many things already .

Big thanks for the safety tips too, need to keep the day job.

 

[EVILSPOTTER]

Are you installing the wider total chaos kit that uses T100 axleshafts?

 

[ms018kmf]

Yes, the first generation Caddy kit retaining the torsion bars and ball joints. I waffled on the coils because the coil kit is only offered with uniballs. I installed the TC uniballs last year knowing they needed to stay clean and the lifespan would be short. I had nasty squeaks after 3 months. Race trucks are noisy, squeaky bastids but it's a non-issue when it's trailered between 60mph desert runs. I like quiet, need to sneak up on critters and such in the woods . If I start eating ball joints like candy I will re-evaluate things (like more than a dozen).

I'll get some pics up in my crusty wheels thread after work.

 

[EVILSPOTTER]

I'd like to see your pictures and hear about driving impressions. No one in my neck of the woods has that suspension yet.