Removing stuck fasteners - the best lubricant

[peneumbra2]

Has anyone got suggestions on what lubricant is most effective for loosening stuck screws, etc?
I have the usual products, but perhaps someone has info on something new.
I've heard that a small drop of antimatter is very effective, but they're out of antimatter down at the hardware store.
Funny - every time I go in looking for it, they're out...

 

[aztoyman]

 

[peneumbra2]

Well, you could always use straight acetone and then a torch...
(call 1-800-KABOOOM)

 

[John McVicker]

— I use ATF, Kerosine, Mineral Spirits and Acetone. Just mix an equal amount of each-and you are done. This is a home made brew that I often use. Originally called Ed’s Red & made to clean guns, but works extremely well to loosen nuts/bolts.

I also like PB Blaster and the old standby…Liquid Wrench. But other than these & Ed’s Red you can’t go wrong with Kroil.

 

[Mark W]

Ed's Red (google it for the interesting origin story) is the BEST penetrating oil I have ever used. I have been using it and singing it's praises to others for about 30 years now. No one I have turned on to it has ever gone back to whatever they might have been using previously.

Sometimes it takes more than oil. ANY oil. That is when I turn to Muriatic acid.



For the really scary stuck stuff, proper use of the acetylene torch it the best answer (the heat will break the bond between the oxygen and iron that makes rust). Takes a little bit of experience to with a torch to figure out what NOT to do when taking this approach. When I do have to resort to heat, I will reapply acid and then ER again before trying to turn the fastener.

But the short answer to your question is Ed's Red!


Mark...

 

[knuckle47]

Only a passing thought:

I had a friend when we were rebuilding boats who would mix diesel fuel and ATF. Told me he learned about it in the Navy. Always seems to work for me but I have also used Kroil with very good success. It ain’t cheap these days however ..FWIW

 

[Mark W]

Only a passing thought:

I had a friend when we were rebuilding boats who would mix diesel fuel and ATF. Told me he learned about it in the Navy. Always seems to work for me but I have also used Kroil with very good success. It ain’t cheap these days however ..FWIW

Diesel and ATF are two of the four ingredients that make up Ed's Red. It is based on an 1800's gun cleaning oil, updated for modern availability (no Sperm whale oil anymore. )

The two part approach works pretty good. The full four part... Diesel (or kerosene) Dextron type ATF, acetone and mineral spirits is even more effective. It gives you a polar and a non-polar solvent, a "sorta kinda emulsifier" and a lubricant. The diesel/ATF mix skips both solvents, providing only lubrication and some degrees of emulsification. (It is is not really emulsification if there is no water involved, but the kerosene keeps whatever the solvents break loose from re-adhering)

The penetration of ER always impresses me. Along with that, the speed at which it works is amazing.

The original gun oil version includes lanolin to leave a water repellent film, but most who use it as a penetrating oil skip this ingredient.

Mark...

 

[gnob]

kroil or pb.

 

[Grayscale]

It is mechanical, or heat, that is capable of fastener removal. I've always apply oil on the threads, but, the oil is for lubricating the fastener's rusty threads, with minimal thread damage, not somehow loosening rust.

Steel oxides are like other metal oxides, they expand relative to their metallic base material. So, that is why oil won't penetrate the threads.

Rust breaks-up with impact, so a lead-shot filled plastic hammer on the end of a box-end wrench is much better than that same wrench with a 'cheater-bar' or using a long breaker-bar.

I'd invest in one of those induction coil heaters, it is better than making a mess with welding tools. On-board welding is a convenient way to deal with rusted fasteners as well. Heating a rusted fastener can be all the expansion that is necessary to get the oxides to loose their grip, or no longer conform to the surrounding metallic material.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Kroil is the best on the shelf. Biggest thing whatever penetrating oil you use let it sit and reapply a day or two. A lot of guys will spray wait 5 months and call it junk it needs time to break down the years of grim and rust.

 

[peneumbra2]

I hear that Kroil is also good on pancakes.
French toast?
Waffles?

 

[porschenut]

I’ve found that I can’t trust any penetrant to work on a rusty bolt sized M6 or smaller. I think it’s working but then just snap off the head. For that reason I use penetrant plus a propane torch just to be on the safe side.

 

[CJF]

Ed's Red

So no commercial version; just a recipe. Is that correct?

 

[knuckle47]

I had looked before to find a commercial preparation but this is only what showed up…I don’t think the 3rd photo would do much

 

[John McVicker]

So no commercial version; just a recipe. Is that correct?

The recipe I’ve always used is in post 4.

4 ingredients…make what you need but I use 16oz of each & put it in a industrial spray bottle. Need a heavy duty spray bottle as a normal one won’t stand up to the mixture.

 

[Mark W]

As mentioned above, Brownells sells/did sell it as word spread about it over the years.

But other than that. there is no widespread commercial availability. It is so easy to make and so cheap that this probably impacts any commercial sales viability.

I keep a couple gallons on hand here and often give small bottles to local friends/customers. Mainly just so they can try it and become converts.

If you do mix some up, keep in in tightly sealed containers. I use small (50ML) bottles with needle tips like these for dispensing it. (Longer tips than these are better usually)

if you decide to use it in spray bottle, do not bother trying to use the generic ones that you can pick up at the grocry store in the cosmetic isle or in the "travel kits". The aetone will destroy the plastic inner working of the valve in the spray mechanism pretty quick. I am sure there are spray bottle available for harsher chemicals that will work, but I just have a couple of small spray bottles like these that originally contained DEET spray. Stands up to the acetone just fine.

The small sizes of these containers makes them very handy for getting into tight spaces for application.

ER is cheap enough that you can use is generously and just flood problem spots if you want. However it is effective enough that you simply do not need to.

BTW, you can mix it up with used ATF that you have drained from your PS system or tranny. It will maybe be a little browner in color but it will cost you a little less and it will not change the effectiveness.

I try not to get it on painted surfaces and if I do, I wipe it off immediately. Never had a problem, but acetone and mineral spirits just can't be good for paint.


Mark...

 

[vipergrhd]

Any brand brake fluid, DOT 3 or 4 will be good. Let sit for a while or overnight.