Removing some leafs on OME springs (1 Viewer)

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Jul 18, 2009
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Has anyone removed some leafs from an OME spring pack to achieve stock spring rate. I ask because I want to use my ome springs for soa but don't want it to tall.
 
you can remove a leaf. but don't just start taking them off, use the search function to see which leaf others removed. Good luck with your SOA project.
 
I assume your in AUS land from the name, to bad. I wish we could make a deal as I need to add a leaf to my OME front end after my diesel swap and ARB bumper.

Doug
 
start with the bottom. The shortest leaves have the least effect. OME springs actually have a lighter spring rate but a taller free arch which is why they are more compliant in their intended use (SUA). Pulling the bottom leaf will drop a 60 about 1" to1 1/2". If you want to go lower, a safer way to do it is bring the 3rd and 4th leaf to a spring maker and have it re-created in a lighter gauge. This will give you an overall
lower rate but still offer support to the main and number two leaves helping to avoid their failure
 
The OME springs usually come in about three different rates. They are all the same spring, but with varying numbers of full-length leafs and that is where you should start. Removing the bottom (shortest) leafs can result in the leaf above getting bent if used hard.
 
So many leaf packs have nothing more than two or three long leaves. the leaves bend at the point
where the leaf below it ends. That's why it's critical not to use a heavier gauge short leaf under a lighter, longer leaf. The heavy leaf will be more resistant to bend so the lighter leaf above it will flex at the break over point. It's easier to tune a progressive leaf pack with multiple graduated leaves as by shortening a leaf of the same thickness changes it's rate. Otherwise if you needed to tune a pack using all leaves of the same length you'd need to do it using a combination of thicknesses. Pulling the bottom leaf won't cause the leaf above it to bend unless the entire pack bends with it. The point where the bottom leaf would bend at the spring perch. There are no other bend moments along it's length. To do so all the leaves above it would also bend there. It would sooner fail at an eyelet
 
If you do have a spring specialist shop available they can re-arch the springs to make them flatter. Then you would have pretty close to the spring rate that you're used to (be that good or bad) at a lower ride height.

If all of the leaves are the same thickness the shortest leaf will be the stiffest leaf. Removing it will have the greatest effect on spring rate, but I'm not so sure that it would also have the greatest effect on ride height.

Can also soften the spring rate by tapering the width of a leaf or leaves. The longer the taper the greater the effect.
 
I made a change from OME heavy to OME medium in the rear springs. As per instructions from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, I removed the third longest spring. No problems... rides much smoother. would consider selling those springs if someone wanted to go from medium to heavy.. PM me.
 
Thanks guys that's a lot of good info. I might try contacting cruiser outfitters. If any find a thread on it send it my way.
Thanks.
 
I removed the third longest and it worked fine until I added extra weight. I recently added them back, as I centered the rear axle and added 33" tires, I prefer how it is now..

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