Removing rear shocks 2000 LC

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plarsen111

10 Year
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Jan 4, 2013
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Yep...what most of you could do blind folded I cannot seem to figure out.

Every I turn the nut, the top part of the shock spins.

Do I need to go buy a very LARGE set of vice grips?

Also, it is tight in there. So definitely using a wrench...not a socket.

All help appreciated,

Phil
 
Pipe wrench is your friend when it comes to changing shocks :-)
 
Try using a gear wrench on the top nut. Makes it pretty easy. Autozone, Advance, Napa sell them. about $13 for the one you need.

While you're there, buy a strap wrench to hold the shock body and prevent it from spinning. about $13 for a set of 2....1 big, 1 small.

Also, remove the spare tire (if you still have it underneath) to give yourself more room.

You could use big channel locks or vice grips, but you're going to ruin the shock body. You could also drill a hole in the floor, but it's not necessary. https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/379202-10-minute-rear-shock-install.html
 
You mean like this?

Quick, Easy Rear Shock Removal

As others have posted, the speed wrench works great as long as you can hold the shock body. When the threads are rusted you need to mechanically hold the shock cap.
 
If the shocks are being replaced, its much easier to drill a 3/8 hole through the upper shock cover. Drill it a bit off center to clear the piston, of course. Run a 3/8 extension through the hole, turn the wrench till the extension hits something solid, and the rest is easy. Same technique works for the front shocks.
 
APKhaos said:
If the shocks are being replaced, its much easier to drill a 3/8 hole through the upper shock cover. Drill it a bit off center to clear the piston, of course. Run a 3/8 extension through the hole, turn the wrench till the extension hits something solid, and the rest is easy. Same technique works for the front shocks.
Click to expand...

Why all the extra work? A big clamp/vice grip/strap wrench solves this.
 
RobRed said:
Why all the extra work? A big clamp/vice grip/strap wrench solves this.
Click to expand...

He has a good one-person technique. He can slide a bar through and have it wedge against the body an then only worry about the top. My technique is the reverse: secure the top and rotate the body. Hard to do both as a one man show.
 
OregonLC said:
He has a good one-person technique. He can slide a bar through and have it wedge against the body an then only worry about the top. My technique is the reverse: secure the top and rotate the body. Hard to do both as a one man show.
Click to expand...

I did it alone, it didn't seem too difficult. I suppose if I couldn't have done it the simple way I might have got creative.
 
OregonLC said:
He has a good one-person technique. He can slide a bar through and have it wedge against the body an then only worry about the top. My technique is the reverse: secure the top and rotate the body. Hard to do both as a one man show.
Click to expand...

^^ This. Much easier to have the body secured and concentrate on the thing you really need to get off. Besides, mine were original with 240k miles. The front bodies were in reasonable shape, but the rears were rusted and crusty. First try with a strap wrench just bent the thin and rusty pressed metal housing.
 
Well, I got it. The side with the muffler was a bear. Chain wrench and adjustable head 22 mm ratchet box wrench were the way to go. Had to order the ratchet wrench online. No store had it.
 
plarsen111 said:
Well, I got it. The side with the muffler was a bear. Chain wrench and adjustable head 22 mm ratchet box wrench were the way to go. Had to order the ratchet wrench online. No store had it.
Click to expand...

Both the old and new on mine were 19mm. What brand was 22mm?
 
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