Removing locking wheel lug without key.. (1 Viewer)

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2001LC

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I've found the 00 LX470 (Graybear) wheel lug key internals (key portion) snapped off. PO's shop must have tried to removing the wheel and broke. I thought, no problem I'll just use another LX key I have, wrong. I've managed to brake loose the regular lugs. I say managed as it was the first time I've ever needed to use heat and penetrating oil on lugs. I also had to use my big boy 3/4" beaker bar. So I've no doubt the keyed lug is going to be a bear to break loose. I can't take to tire shop or elsewhere as brake fluid is running out of rear caliper.

I've been searching and seen reference to a Harbor Freight tool, but not what that tool is?

Please give me some of your best idea's???

Note: I need to pull wheel so I can replace caliper piston seal, unless someone knows of way to get to seal without?
 
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You need to find a regular socket that is a tight fit and bang it on with a hammer then remove it with an impact. The tight fit should grip the lock nut enough to allow you to remove it. After you get it off, you'll need to bang out the lug nut and then repeat with the other lugs.
 
I might also suggest using black impact sockets as they are thicker wall than chrome sockets. I've had chrome sockets crack when doing this, but it still might work. It's obvious you should use a socket you no longer care about.
 
^^^ This. And inspect and likely replace your studs as well, if they were on there that tight. And don't let idiots with impacts near your lug nuts! I can't count how many times a shop has destroyed my wheel studs by over torquing them. After any service by a shop I always loosen them and re-tighten to make sure I won't have any issues on the trail. And carry spares!
 
THX duggy. The post I read while searching said HF tool, then mentioned 13/16". So it must have been referring to the method your suggesting. I'll give it a try but if as tight as other lugs I doubt it will hold. I broke one chrome & one impact socket last week breaking a bolt loose with this 3/4" breaker, the other 4 lugs were just as bad if not tighter.
I might also suggest using black impact sockets as they are thicker wall than chrome sockets. I've had chrome sockets crack when doing this, but it still might work. It's obvious you should use a socket you no longer care about.
Good idea, they are stronger but only six pointed.

^^^ This. And inspect and likely replace your studs as well, if they were on there that tight. And don't let idiots with impacts near your lug nuts! I can't count how many times a shop has destroyed my wheel studs by over torquing them. After any service by a shop I always loosen them and re-tighten to make sure I won't have any issues on the trail. And carry spares!
Good advise THX. I go into tire shop and make sure they don't, "always". As I've had my share of issue from over torqueing and cross threading by these techs using impact wrenches. Working on 100 series that corner auto repair shops have used there impacts on is always a bi$#h.
 
You really want to use an impact to get the quick hammer action to break loose the lug nut. Do you have access to a compressor and gun you can borrow?
 
You really want to use an impact to get the quick hammer action to break loose the lug nut. Do you have access to a compressor and gun you can borrow?
I have an impact wrench (IW) and compressor, but only a 1/2" max torque 230 ft lb. Best I can do is hammer with IW for a while then put the 3/4" breaker.

ponytl, good note. I'll try if I can find a thick 12 point.
 
If a dealer isn't too far away they may have a master set, I had to do this a while back
 
I have these two keys I could send you, I'd like them back.
13/16 extraction socket fits well in the keyed lug nuts.

If you use the beat in a normal socket method, it's probably a single use socket.
 
lug key.png


I may try my largest monkey wrench also, with extension for leverage. I put penetrating oil last night and will heat today to start with.
 
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I have these two keys I could send you, I'd like them back.

13/16 extraction socket fits well in the keyed lug nuts.

If you use the beat in a normal socket method, it's probably a single use socket.
That must have been the HF tool, extraction socket!
Thank you for the offer, I may take you up on that for the other 3 wheels. This one I really need off today if possible.
 
I went through this a couple months ago. Morons at tire discount place broke the lug nut key while putting the lug nut back on and snapped 2 other studs on rear axle! WTF!!

Anyway, I know this doesn't help you at this very moment but wanted to share. I tried all the suggestions above. I banged on a socket but no matter how tight I got it, it was never tight enough when using my breaker bar. I thought about grinding off the top of the lug nut and attacking it that way somehow, maybe start by cutting a slot in it.

On a whim I swung by local toyota dealer, explained the problem and a few minutes later a tech came out with a master set of lug nut keys and took it off without issue free of charge. I no longer have locking nuts, went back to 5 normal nuts.
 
I added a picture below yours camino. I can't tell if either will work can you.
 
I added a picture below yours camino. I can't tell if either will work can you.
I can't tell the difference between the two I have in person, no way I can tell through a picture. I do have the key number somewhere though.

It looks like mine are 6 point and yours is 5?
 
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I had luck by welding a conventional 6-point lug nut onto the security nut.
I held it in place over the security nut and filled the inside of the nut with weld. The heat from welding would help as well.
 
Pre rinse day 1 110.JPG
Pre rinse day 1 417.JPG
Here's the wheel I'm working on. The two either side of keyed lug where the worst of the bunch to break loose. I didn't know our lugs are hollow.
 
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