Removing Front and Rear Diffs on FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[Biff]

After studying up on this project and reading all the posts of my ARB install labor thread; I've decided I will be removing the front and rear diffs from my 1994 Landcruiser, in order to have front and rear ARB lockers installed. Apparently it will save me over $1300 in install labor(plenty of money to buy lots of beer and pizza for the installation team) A few of the local members(Ian, and Robert) have offered to help, in exchange for some of the beer and pizza.

This is what I know so far(all info. comes from the FSM or any threads I've read here), and the steps I will take in order. Anybody with experience removing the 3rd member I would appreciate any advice. I am still doing research on this so please add to the list or steps I need to do.

1. Place rig on four heavy duty jack stands (I will use four 3 ton stands I got from Sears)

2. Drain diff. oil

3. (opps forgot) Remove Axle Shafts(Thanks Arya)

4. Remove tie rod

5. disonnect propeller shaft by removing four bolts (FSM states to place matchmarks on flanges, what exactly does that mean)

6. Put transmission jack under the 3rd member and drop it down slowly.

Any specific tools I need to pull this job off, other than the standard sockets, wrenchs.



I know I'm missing something so any help would be appeciated.

Thanks

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Yeah, you gotta remove the axle shafts!

 

[Biff]

forgot about that, post updated.

 

[robbie]

you will now have the privilage of removing the diffs when or if you have problems. good luck robbie

 

[NorCalDoug]

Matchmarks?
Basically a chalk or grease pencil line -- sharpie might work too -- to help you remember which way the driveshaft was connected before you removed it. It helps to ensure you don't install them the wrong way -- say at 90 degrees of how they were originally installed.

In this case, you'd draw a line on the base of the driveshaft and onto where it mounts (place marks on both the front and rear ends of the driveshaft).

 

[Biff]

Matchmarks?
Basically a chalk or grease pencil line -- sharpie might work too -- to help you remember which way the driveshaft was connected before you removed it. It helps to ensure you don't install them the wrong way -- say at 90 degrees of how they were originally installed.

In this case, you'd draw a line on the base of the driveshaft and onto where it mounts (place marks on both the front and rear ends of the driveshaft).

Thanks Doug, that makes sense just wanted to make sure.

 

[lovetoski]

I've dropped the 3rd on both my 60 and 80 a few times, and there's no way I'd use a jack. I can't see how the jack would fit the diff in such a way that it wouldn't slip. The diff is heavy, no doubt. But it's not that hard to remove. Remove the driveshaft and the diff bolts. Slide under the diff, and wiggle it on the studs until it's nice and loose. Then just pretend you are doing a max rep on the bench press, and press it off. Once it's off the studs, you lower it to your chest, and roll to the side and lower it to the ground. Don't take the bench press comment the wrong way, I'm not that strong...15 push-ups and I'm done. I think the hardest part is getting the axles (esp the long side) back into the diff...

 

[Biff]

I've dropped the 3rd on both my 60 and 80 a few times, and there's no way I'd use a jack. I can't see how the jack would fit the diff in such a way that it wouldn't slip. The diff is heavy, no doubt. But it's not that hard to remove. Remove the driveshaft and the diff bolts. Slide under the diff, and wiggle it on the studs until it's nice and loose. Then just pretend you are doing a max rep on the bench press, and press it off. Once it's off the studs, you lower it to your chest, and roll to the side and lower it to the ground. Don't take the bench press comment the wrong way, I'm not that strong...15 push-ups and I'm done. I think the hardest part is getting the axles (esp the long side) back into the diff...

Doug, not even a small tranny jack. like this one

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178


I figured the 3rd wouldn't be seriously heavy, but when the ARB is installed I wouldn't want to risk dropping it.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

It's pretty heavy(80 pounds or so) and awkward, especially the rear one. I use the floor jack to support the weight as it comes out. Then I keep a hand on it to keep it from rolling while my 14 year old conscript help lowers the jack. I have benched it into position on the trail, but I had super human strength after a broken axle and repair.

Do you have the axles out yet? I would do the rear first since it's 200% easier, and then the front since you will better understand the process. Also on the front, it is easier to take off the tie rod, but you don't have to. If you do decide to pull the tie rod, be careful not to bugger up the tie rod end threads or you will need new ones.

 

[alia176]

Biff,

You can raise the vehicle with a floor jack and rest it on tall jack stands. Do this for all fours and then proceed to remove everything. Couple of things:

-Do power wash everything before starting. Your team will appreciate it! Keep dirt from falling into the diff housing when you're removing the 3rd member out.
-Do mark the driveshaft flange at the Tcase end and the diff pinion flange end
-DON'T let the driveshafts split apart on you! Just to be on the safe side, mark the slip yoke.
-DON'T use pickle forks to remove the tie rod ends. this will ruin the boots - unless you plan on replacing the tie rod ends anyway. Autozone may have a smaller version of the Pitman arm puller that will work for this.
-Do lock the CDL, this will help in removing the driveshaft bolts. Do replace the nylock nuts if you managed to mangle the sides of them.
-Do replace the diff drain plugs with an updated variety from CDAN.
-Do use the "Right Stuff" by permatex to reseal the 3rd members back to the diff housing (after lockers are installed).
-Do loosen the front ABS sensors and pull them out just a tad. Otherwise your birfs will get caught and they won't come out!
-Do - check the driveshaft UJoints to make sure they're smooth. If not, do the optional step below. If still not, replace them or have them replaced.
-Do make sure that you guys (or the shop) install the air line on top of the front diff! Some shops are known to install them on the bottom.
-Do get four cans of spray brake parts cleaner, lots of rags and a large pan to drain the 3rd members (cookie sheets work pretty good!)

-Optional - wheel bearing job? Everything is out anyway!
-Optional - since you have the birfs out, perhaps its time for a repacking/cleaning? Since you're in there....!
-Optional - take the driveshafts apart (after you maked each half) and clean the old grease out and apply new grease to the splines. Clean the grease fitting hole as well and check the smoothness of the UJs.

Best of luck and have fun.

 

[Biff]

Thanks guys, thats good info. Want to make sure I got all the right parts and steps down before I start into this project.

 

[Jammin]

Hey, I want to come along. Granted I am not mechanically inclined or anything but if you might need an extra hand.... Let me know what I can bring.

 

[Biff]

Sure I'll send you a PM the week before we do this.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

One other thing-Do not remove the rear wheels. The truck is safer on the tires, and since you have a FF rear end, the tires can stay on the ground. Obviously you'll have a bit less clearence, but it's stilll plenty to do the job. On the front, you will have to set the axle on jack stands-6 tons at least-before you tear into it.

The driveshaft bolts can be very difficullt, and the tip about locking the CDL switch is a good one.

 

[Biff]

One other thing-Do not remove the rear wheels. The truck is safer on the tires, and since you have a FF rear end, the tires can stay on the ground. Obviously you'll have a bit less clearence, but it's stilll plenty to do the job. On the front, you will have to set the axle on jack stands-6 tons at least-before you tear into it.

The driveshaft bolts can be very difficullt, and the tip about locking the CDL switch is a good one.

So my punny 3 ton jack stands aren't going to do the job?

Drew, do you recommend I remove the front first than the rear?

 

[Heffenoche]

So my punny 3 ton jack stands aren't going to do the job?

Drew, do you recommend I remove the front first than the rear?

They'll should hold but I think Drew's point is that for safety sake use the 6 ton. They hold mere weight but more importantly the have a much larger base and are mere stable. You wouldn'twant to try to bench press tha whole 80 off your head if it fell.

Sam's club has chrome, I beleive with a Goodyear sticker on it, 6 ton jack stans for $25.00 a pair.

 

[Beowulf]

So my punny 3 ton jack stands aren't going to do the job?

You should use 6-ton or larger when working on the 80. You won't need the additional height for this job but you will for most other jobs.

-B-

 

[Biff]

Gotcha, will be getting a couple of 6 ton sets from Sears next week.

 

[Beowulf]

If you are a doubting Thomas

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=34811

-B-

 

[e9999]

Gotcha, will be getting a couple of 6 ton sets from Sears next week.

12 tons feel much better to me...
remember these have "double" rating. Meaning the 6 tons is 3 tons per stand...