remove lspv

[euclid]

4-runner front calipers
eldorado rear calipers
non abs fzj80 master
stock booster

lspv is leaking, no rebuild kit available, don't need it anyway.

Anyone have some good tech on how to get rid of it?

TIA
GT

 

[pjfairchild]

Searched high and low for just that, turned out my problem was faulty booster in cow cruiser, which is now junk so I do have a spare lspv that you are welcome to if you want.

 

[Kynot62]

Need No, Good to have Yes. When you slam on the brakes hard its that valve that keeps the rear wheels from locking up. It's also is your proportion valve that puts more pressure to the front brakes.

You could replace it with the proportion valve from an earlier 60. But either way the system was designed to have one. Adjustable after market valves are available as well.

Tony

 

[ntsqd]

If the 62's LSPV is like the one on my Xcab then it has a line from the front circuit going to it as well. No idea what they're doing with that, but there it is. So deletion means needing to find a way to plug or cap that line too.
Through experimenting with a highly sophisticated piece of wire I found that the best braking in the Mini for most all cases resulted from the LSPV's arm being fully up. The only time that full up is too much is when I run with the shell removed.So I built this and made it adjustable:

Being generally lazy this was easier than dealing with removing the LSPV and dealing with the front line issue. I'd jump on that spare.

 

[euclid]

Searched high and low for just that, turned out my problem was faulty booster in cow cruiser, which is now junk so I do have a spare lspv that you are welcome to if you want.

Thanks for the offer. I want to get rid of it for simplicity's sake.

Need No, Good to have Yes. When you slam on the brakes hard its that valve that keeps the rear wheels from locking up. It's also is your proportion valve that puts more pressure to the front brakes.

You could replace it with the proportion valve from an earlier 60. But either way the system was designed to have one. Adjustable after market valves are available as well.

Tony

The system wasn't designed with 35's, RDB or other modification in mind. That's why I want to get rid of it.

If the 62's LSPV is like the one on my Xcab then it has a line from the front circuit going to it as well. No idea what they're doing with that, but there it is. So deletion means needing to find a way to plug or cap that line too.
Through experimenting with a highly sophisticated piece of wire I found that the best braking in the Mini for most all cases resulted from the LSPV's arm being fully up. The only time that full up is too much is when I run with the shell removed.So I built this and made it adjustable:

Being generally lazy this was easier than dealing with removing the LSPV and dealing with the front line issue. I'd jump on that spare.

I saw that pic in another thread. My goal is to simplify the system by removing the lspv from it. I've experiminted with different setups with the lspv over the years. Back on 31's and no roof rack I could feel a difference. 35's and almost 6K lbs = not so much.

 

[Mace]

You currently have a brake proportioning valve at all? If not, that'd be a great place to put one.

Or just put a brake line union in there.

or a 2 lb residual valve.

 

[Tapage]

if you start locking your rear tires on a panic braking . ( hope you can test it before you really need it ) a good option it's just a manual wilwood prop valve ..

 

[euclid]

Mace,
tell me more about a brake line union. Ive asked my local parts houses about brake lines with not much luck. I know the lines have to be flared. I need the basics on this. Tia

 

[Mace]

10mm Metric Invert Flare Brass Union - 3/16" Tube - 5pc : eBay Motors (item 150334723471 end time Mar-19-10 21:10:58 PDT)

 

[Chuck Wagon]

Greg, you are asking all of the questions i need to know. Thanks. I have all the parts in and I am running the same setup and year 62 as you.

My LSPV is not leaking and i was hoping to do a setup like ntsqd.(road tested of course). Should there be a problem with that?

I will most likely have some questions for you down the line. I will be watching this one...

 

[ntsqd]

From my experience with that bracket on the Xcab Mini the full up adjustment is fine for all loadings EXCEPT when running empty with the shell off. Then it gets a bit tail-happy. Since I unfortunately rarely ever run w/o the shell this is not a problem, but is the reason why I gave myself the option of being able to adjust it.
The truck that it is under sees everything from crawling to desert racer chasing to long distance 'Overland' type uses. A year ago T-day weekend in Big Sur loaded with the GF's Dutch Ovens etc.:

 

[euclid]

Found a couple of compression fittings at nappa. They mic out at .08 MM larger id than the od of the brake line. I think they will work. Plan is to plumb the rear axle directly from the output line of the master. I'll add the 2lb residual presure valve and the proportioning valve later if needed.

Only piece left is figguring out how to block off the 3rd line. May just solder it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Found a couple of compression fittings at nappa. They mic out at .08 MM larger id than the od of the brake line. I think they will work. Plan is to plumb the rear axle directly from the output line of the master. I'll add the 2lb residual presure valve and the proportioning valve later if needed.

Only piece left is figguring out how to block off the 3rd line. May just solder it.

A quick & effective way to make a brake line plug is to use a line nut w/ a small ball bearing or BB stuck inside. When the nut is torked down, the ball is crushed against the inner hole, problem solved.

 

[euclid]

Sweet. Thanks for the tip Jim.

 

[ntsqd]

Most compression type unions are not intended or rated for brake service. They'll usually work, but there are better ways. Something like Mace's link being the best answer. A decent LAPS should have such a fitting.

 

[disassociative]

Update on LSPV removal

Greg,

Did you ever remove the LSPV like you had planned? Did you install any other kind of proportioning valve or did you use a union? Any feedback on brake response and handling after the change?

I am in the process of replacing all the brake lines on my 62, the LSPV is rusted every bit as bad as the brake lines were and if I can remove it then I get rid of the weakest link. That said, I am a little concerned with transferring too much braking power to my rear drums when the stopping power is up front.

Thanks

 

[euclid]

I put a 3 way connector in place of the LSPV with no proportioning valve. I can't tell much difference in braking. I plan to figure out which lines are which and eliminate the ones that aren't necessary, possibly tackling that project this weekend.

One note on my feedback on brake response and handling. I'm not picky or discerning. My expectations are not high. I expect my truck to drive like a big dumb 20 year old truck on 35's.

 

[disassociative]

I expect my truck to drive like a big dumb 20 year old truck on 35's.

That's the dream!

I would be interested to hear about your work on the brake system when you do get to it.

 

[euclid]

I finished removing my LSPV yesterday.

First pic pile of parts.
Second pic empty place where lspv was.
Last pic shows the copper union where the lines are joined.

 

[euclid]

This pic shows the plug that I used to block off the 3 way union in the front.

One brake line comes from the master cylinder to a 3 way union. From the 3 way union, one line goes to the front axle. The other place in that 3 way union is a return line from the LSPV. This is where I used the plug pictured here.

Another brake line comes out of the master cylinder to the back of the truck. It hits the LSPV, which I'll describe as another 3 way union. Another of the 3 connections to the LSPV goes to the brakes on the rear axle. The last of the 3 connections goes to the return line described above.

The line that connects from the LSPV to the return side of the front 3 way connector goes completely away. It can be seen in the pic, it's about 6' long.

The line that comes from the back of the master cylinder to the lspv is cut and then connected to the line that goes from the lspv to the rear axle. This is where I used the brass compression fitting seen above. This fitting is available at almost all parts stores. It is 3/16" fitting and is working well. A wrenching big brother of mine assured me that it would fit, and he was correct.

My brakes are much firmer now.