remove front driveshaft

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euclid

euclid

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I'm going to be driving my truck in RWD for a few weeks while I source parts for my bad front diff. Could be 1K+ miles.

Here are a few questions I have:

- what are the mechanical risks associated with driving with the diff locked and front driveshaft out.

- should I remove the c-clips and leave them out? Since the CV's are fine I'm thinking I'll skip this step.

- Have folks put many miles on rigs with no front driveshaft?

I will remember to put matchmarks on the driveshaft.

Thanks,
Greg
 
But wait did you say your front diff is bad as in broken?
If that is the case you need to remove the CV shafts as well. Otherwise the diff will be driven by the front wheels.

If the diff is broken, remove it, the CV's, the front drive shaft, and lock the center diff.
Then rig up something to keep debris and moisture out of the hubs and enjoy the 2wd.

What is wrong with the front diff?
 
Ya that's what I was thinking. If you're trying to keep the gears from rotating removing the driveshaft isn't going to help.

Why does it take "a few weeks" to source parts?
 
Porter said:
You need to unbolt and remove the hub flange as well as the front drive shaft from transfer case,not the axle and CVs. There's several threads with details- search 'flange'.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can leave the CV's in and just remove the drive flanges and drive shaft as an alternative.

But if the diff is coming out anyway, I would remove the CV's and replace the hub flanges to keep junk out of the bearings. Those CV's have to come out before any diff work can be done.

I guess a lot depends on whether the OP will be doing the R&R DIY style or is just trying to stay on the road until a mechanic can get to it. My brain goes right to DIY so I didn't consider just pulling the drive shaft and hub drive flanges. Both methods will work.
 
I saw video in the FJC section where removing CV was necessary to pull the front DS .. it's the same case in the 100 series ?
 
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