Remove a Spindle Bushing (1 Viewer)

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I don't post a whole lot, but I am in the middle of prepping a front disc swap and ran into spindle bushing replacement.

This initially was by far one of the most frustrating things I have done. There was a lot of cursing and swinging of large hammers. I also managed to plant a flat head screwdriver in my leg. Don't worry it was a small one and it didn't get real deep.

Overall my first bushing removal went terribly, but I learned some stuff so the second one was done in about 15 minutes or so.

I decided to chronicle what I did because I googled spindle bushing removal and didn't come up with much help, unless I possessed a cutting torch.....

So here goes and I hope this helps someone in the future.

1). The first step is to cut a channel on the inside if the bushing. I used a Dremel with a diamond bit and just worked it back and forth through the brass until I got almost down to the spindle itself.

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2) Next I used the Dremel again with a cut-off wheel to cut a channel through the top of the bushing to the channel I had cut on the inside.

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3) Then I used a punch to drive up the outside of the bushing on both sides of the cut I had made.

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4) Drive the as far into the center of the spindle as possible then it's time to start working downward. I used various punches/ old screwdrivers to drive down behind the channel cut on the inside. The goal here is to get that channel to split and get a little bit of the brass material to pop out into the center of the spindle. It doesn't need a whole lot out there but be patient and get a good bit for the next step.

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5) Ok so I know some people frown upon this and you may have something better, but this worked in a pinch. Yes I am a tool abuser who uses all sorts of stuff for unintended uses. Anyways grab yourself a 10 or 12 inch ratchet extension and in my case a 1" socket fit nicely. I put the socket upside down on the extension and then down the spindle she went. Now you should just be able to give it a few pops with a BFH and knock that bushing out if you did this correctly.

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Here's a picture of both bushings I removed. The first bushing I removed is on the right. As you can see I had some trouble.

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7) Now that is out of way you can install your new bushing. Again I take no responsibility for your outcome, but this is how I got the new bushing in.

I don't know if orientation of the bushing matters but I did it like this.

The spindle has a flat part on three sides. The bushing on the bottom has the shape of what I called an eye cut into it. If you have the flat portion of the spindle pointed at you then just put the two points where the eye terminates on each side facing the other two flat sides.

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8) I put some wheel bearing grease on the outside of the new bushing.

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9) I put the threaded side of the spindle on a 2x4 and then used a piece of wood and my BFH to carefully, if that's a thing while using a large hammer, tap the bushing into place.

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10) This step is just sitting back and admiring your work with a beer! So literally several hours and a trip to harbor freight later I finished my project. I hope that this helps someone out there in the same predicament.
 
Well done. That's a great writeup.

FWIW, I think that the current wisdom is that that bushing rarely needs replacing-unless it is seriously damaged.
It's not on the list of things that's commonly replaced as a matter of course in a bearing/birf/disk brake conversion.
 
So I did read that it rarely needs replacing, but I jammed the Birf I have down inside my old spindle and had quite a bit of play. That being the case I had spindle bushings that came in a knuckle rebuild kit so I set about removing the old ones.:bang: I will say that the replacement bushings seem a lot less sturdy than the original Toyota ones, and ultimately after i finished the replacement I had just about the same play in the Birf. Oh well, if anyone ever decides they "need" to do this like I did, hopefully this helps.:beer:
 
As part of chasing a mystery "clicking" noise on my 1987 FJ75 I replaced both bushes. The vehicle has done +/- 180k km and about 90% of that was serious off road work as a hunting vehicle. The internals of the free wheel hubs were very badly worn and I had to replace them. Then noticed that the shafts were flopping around in the bushes.

I put the knuckles in the vice and used a cold chisel and hammer to gently tap in under the lip of the bush. Slowly - gently - round and around. The lip bent up slightly after a while and then I could get a large screw driver against the area where the lip meets the exterior round part of the bushing. Tap, tap around and around for another while, then it moved and I slowly tapped it right out. Very little deformation to it. (I could have knocked it back in again.

The second one went quicker because I was braver - no longer tapping but hitting. This did however damage the bushing with a tear developing where the lip meets the round part. That could have been a problem had it separated, but all went well.

The clicking noise remains a mystery and it seems to be in the gearbox. After about 100km it has now grown to a "clacking" sound...
 
One trick is to put the bushing in the freezer. Then heat the spindle with sunshine or low oven , low. Then the bushing will be real easy to get in and after the assembly gets to regular temp, you will be fine.
 
Old thread but a goodie. I never usually touch those bushings but a kit from Australia had a combination short brass bushing with needle bearings I wanted to try. Just couldn't budge the old bushings out.
 
Got a little good vs bad photo. The bad bushings was on my passenger side. That much slop led to the third image... Glad I caught it when I did. Eventually would have led to me needing a new axle.

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