Removal of PTO winch drive shaft

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How in the world does this thing come out? I am baffled. This is the short shaft that connects the drive shaft from the transfer case to the winch. I have removed both of them but cannot figure out how this part comes out from the frame.

PTO Shaft.jpg
 

thebigredrocker

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Ha! Glad I’m not the only one to cuss that pillowblock. I assume you removed the long bolt that holds the PB in the radiator mount. If so, it’s just squeezed in there. Wiggle and pry to get it out.
 
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You mean the bolt that holds the radiator support that just do happens to have a nut just above this shaft? The nut that is impossible to get to? If so, then yes, i removed it by virtue of cutoff wheel. I ground down the welded portion on the support bracket and punched it through.
There was a bolt under the shaft on the engine side that was under the shaft. Rusted, so sawzall took that one out.
 

73FJ40

After another night of rust removal!
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@thebigredrocker is right on. Not withstanding any "rust-welded" parts, the pillow block is held in by the long bolt (shown as 91111-40860, below). If you sawed off the bolt, the remainder of the bolt may be still wedged into the flanges on both sides. You may have to pry the flanges away from the bolt remnants to get it out.

Be careful, PTO winch parts are worth their weight in gold...

upload_2018-12-8_21-43-46.png
 

Living in the Past

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Issue is the U joint with the shear pin at the winch and that short Spud shaft that goes thru the pillow block bearing are rusted together inside the boxed front crossmember in the frame. Got at least one myself trying to figure out how get apart without destroying any of the valuable parts.
 
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I like the PTO winch but do not plan on ever using it (no plans for off rough off road when its done). I will look at it again tomorrow but this is a magic trick to get this thing out. I might just leave it there and sandblast/paint in position.
 
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You can see the carriage bolt that was cut off via sawzall, resting on the frame (right side) that was the bolt under the inside carrier. Honestly, it really didnt serve a purpose IMO.
 

Living in the Past

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The end of the shaft that goes thru pillow block bearing is coarse male spline. The U joint by the winch is a female coarse spline end. Depending one which U joint you have the splines over lap by a few inches. With very little use the splines rust together. Even if you don't plan on using the winch the value increases if it is complete. The pillow block bearing to the winch are some of the hardest to find.
 
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Looked at it again today and for some reason I did not see the nut inside the piece that holds the u-joint (engine side). I didnt try to remove it yet as I spent the entire morning wrestling with the separation of trans with engine. I lost that battle and called it a day.

I appreciate the schematic and responses.
 

Living in the Past

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If removing the bolt that obviously replaced the shear pin work somebody must have opened up the the front crossmember. It is possible to pull the winch off with the shear pin. The front U joint would just slide off the splines for the spud shaft if it is not rusted together.
 
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If removing the bolt that obviously replaced the shear pin work somebody must have opened up the the front crossmember. It is possible to pull the winch off with the shear pin. The front U joint would just slide off the splines for the spud shaft if it is not rusted together.
Thanks. She has been sitting in same spot for 13+ yrs and there are a lot of parts stuck together. I hit it with a little PB Blaster and will take another look at it one night this week.
 

73FJ40

After another night of rust removal!
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Here is the PTO shaft and pillow block I pulled out of mine. As noted above, removing the long cross bolt allows the pillow block and the splined shaft it holds to just slide out of the splines in the front section. Then the front section just pulls out towards the bumper.



I think what Living in the past is saying is that the splined section, inside the frame cross member, is rusted together.

View attachment 1850893
 
Last edited:

Living in the Past

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At some point the spline section on the front U joint was shortened I guessing for the rust issue inside a boxed section of the frame which is hard to get to. Get it apart I suggest coating the spline section with guess to try and prevent rust.
 
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