I have a set of these flex ratcheting wrenches.,,, But how did you hold the socket end on top of the rear bolt, and WHICH side of the frame did you have the wrench? The Inboard has 4-5 steel tubes in the way & there is NO clearance to move a wrench much less apply pressure to the bolt head, and other things so that is not possible, outboard is the accumulator, and there is a narrow space between the accumulator and the steel body ... What am I missing ..? There is a secret that the successful removals had, that i need to discover or learn!
I just went through the process of replacing the original Height Control Accumulator this past weekend on my 2000 LX. Only reason I chose to replace was the fact that the July 2003 Service Bulletin said that IF you see DTC's of C1751 and/or C1762 (I had both), AND your HCA is older than Nov 2002, it's recommended to replace both the Pump Sub-Assembly and the Height Control Accumulator. Well, last month I only had the new Pump Sub-Assy on-hand - so replaced that which got rid of all DTC's and brought back functionality. BUT..... when I bled the old HCA, I did find some good sized chunks in the blackish (less than 25K miles old) fluid - same mileage on "newish" globes. So decision was made to order a new HCA and get it swapped in ASAP.
Do agree it was a PITA to access the top two bolts holding the HCA onto the frame. (Even more of a challenge reinstalling the top rear bolt with the new HCA). Some details to help:
1) For the top rear bolt: Disconnected the grey elect connector, and bent the tab out of the way. Used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 12mm socket and accessed from outboard side. Had to use a large screw-driver/pry bar to get enough leverage to crack the bolt loose. (See my photo of ratchet wrench in-place).
2) For the top front bolt: Removed the Left Front globe, and unbolted the two hydraulic lines from the HCA to improve access. Also accessing from the outboard side, used a 12mm line wrench, and held a 2' section of pipe at end while my wife used a hammer to hit and crack the bolt loose.
Misc: I tried a 12mm flex ratchet wrench; didn't work for me.... head was too big and tool too long to get a good "bite". Would have helped if I had a 12mm stubby (short) wrench on-hand.
Not sure how much help, BUT: I also removed several frame bolts holding a few attachments for hydraulic lines in the area, and popped-out two plastic connectors from frame in the area near the right-top frame bolt.
Graduation test shows a score of 15 !!
