Removal of front drive shaft on the trail

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SanDiegoCruiser

SanDiegoCruiser

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Sep 14, 2011
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Time and time again, I read how weak the 98-99 front diffs are.
On our last Big Bear trip, I was a little hesitant to tackle some sections due to the potential of blowing the front diff. I was less concerned about clearance and body damage that could be caused by some of the rocks. Denting a bumper or fender does not prevent you from making it home. Blowing a front diff can really ruin your day, making it difficult to get the LC off the trail.

This got me into thinking what is required to remove the front drive shaft on the trail. Obviously, I would practice this first in my driveway at home, but until it is replaced with a stronger ARB front diff, I feel this is a big vulnerability for 98-99 LC owners who wheel their LC’s…

I tried to search, but did not come up with a step by step DIY guide. What tools are needed? I know BlueCruiser dealt with this in Moab, but it sounds like he had a lot of help. Anyone care to comment?

Thanks

SDCruiser
 
The how-to is kinda a piece together of a few threads. If you look at pfran's thread on his blown diff there's a lot of good info there. I was looking into this myself for the just in case...
 
The front drive shaft is an 8-bolt deal. Remove the 4 bolts in each flange and don't whack yourself in the face with the shaft. Just that easy.

Then you would pull the hub drive flanges, cover up with some tape/beer can and go home.
 
Hey Craig - I have pulled both drive shafts before in my driveway. Pulling the shaft is pretty straight forward. The tools needed are ones you should already carry in your truck when going off road. If you want sometime we can get together and go through mine if you want an idea of what I carry tool wise and I probably go light compared to others on here.

As far is fixing things to get home:

  1. Remove skids
  2. Unbolt front drive shaft. There are for nuts on each end. I have to double check in the FSM but I know it recommends one of the end to remove first.
  3. Remove drive shaft.

Now, here is where there are a couple of options depending on what you carry

  1. remove front wheel hubs and replace with bored out hubs flanges or
  2. remove both front hub flanges and leave off. Take plastic/beer can and duct tape and seal up the openings to prevent any water, dirt, debris, etc. from getting in there.

Once these steps are complete, lock the center diff and drive home.

Now, I have never had to do any of this. But, this is my understanding. So, If I have anything wrong, please correct it.

I would love to get a set of bored out flanges and need to at some point...
 
Last edited:
Mxndrnks said:
As far is fixing things to get home:

  1. remove front wheel hubs and replace with bored out hubs flanges or
  2. remove both front hub flanges and leave off. Take plastic/beer can and duct tape and seal up the openings to prevent any water, dirt, debris, etc. from getting in there.
Click to expand...

What is involved in these steps? Also, where does one get bored out hub flanges? Seems like it is an item that would be welcomed by many.. Group Buy? Or do you have to purchase a hub flange and get it machined?

EDIT: Here is a good thread I found: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/531915-tools-blown-cv-front-diff.html PFran sure does carry alot of tools on the trail! A source for a bored out flange would be nice..
 
Last edited:
Right now you have to purchase the Hub Flange and get it machined.

The steps to remove the hub flange are the same as if you were going to do a bearing repack. look at the bearing repack thread in the FAQ or in the FSM if you have one.
 
Machining hub flanges is overkill. Friend took his 80 to Moab last week and had a 100 in his group that blew the front diff. They had no idea until the got on the road after the trail and started hearing grinding. They pulled the front DS and flanges, pulled the front wheels and put plastic grocery bags over the open hub and then put the wheels back on, which clamped the bag down. Drove 300 miles home to SLC with no issues.

When you pull the front DS make sure you have the wheels chocked or lock the CDL beforehand, otherwise the truck will start rolling.
 
^^^ I agree + you may as well clean and re-pack you hubs while waiting on the new diff to arrive anyway.

SanDiegoCriser, you can get all this info with a little searching or laying under the truck it's nothing to tough or that should intimidate. If you want to be ready just practice removing the hub caps and cone washers, that's the hardest part.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Machining hub flanges is overkill. Friend took his 80 to Moab last week and had a 100 in his group that blew the front diff. They had no idea until the got on the road after the trail and started hearing grinding. They pulled the front DS and flanges, pulled the front wheels and put plastic grocery bags over the open hub and then put the wheels back on, which clamped the bag down. Drove 300 miles home to SLC with no issues.

When you pull the front DS make sure you have the wheels chocked or lock the CDL beforehand, otherwise the truck will start rolling.
Click to expand...
I just covered mine with duct tape and drove 200+ miles home.
My logic was I would need to service the hubs anyway so no need to be to concerned about a little dust getting in.


The only special tools you need beside a set of metric wrenches and sockets are a hammer and brass drift to get the cone washers off, and a pair of snap ring pliers. The spoon bill type work the best.
Two guys, one under the truck working on the DL's and one pulling the flanges, can do the whole job in about 20 minutes.
 
Will this brass drift set work?
Amazon.com: Snap-on Industrial Brand JH Williams PS-3 3-Piece Brass Drift Punch Set: Home Improvement

Trunk Monkey said:
Those pliers are of the devil. The interchangable ends will slip off or spring out when you don't want them to. Get these, they're even on sale:

Lock Ring Pliers- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Auto Specialty Tools
Click to expand...

I prefer to get it from amazon since I am lazy and get free shipping with prime.

Would this work?
Amazon.com: CTA Tools 8840 Lock Ring Pliers: Home Improvement
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Either the Sears or Amazon lock ring pliers are what you need. For the brass drift, I simply bought a foot of 3/4" brass rod, cut it in half, so I've got a drift for the toolbox in garage and one for the truck. 14mm (iirc) socket to remove the nuts holding the hub flange.

hth

Steve
 
SanDiegoCruiser said:
OK, so now I need to make sure I have all of the tools.

[X] - Metric sockets - have a good set of these
[X] - Snap ring pliers. Would these work? Amazon.com: TEKTON 3578 8-in-1 Universal Snap Ring Pliers Set: Home Improvement
[X] Metal Punch - have a few of these
[X] Hammer - have a few of these
[X] Duct Tape - always in my tool kit

Canvas Tool rollup to store everything
Amazon.com: Arsenal 5780 Canvas Tool Roll-Up: Home Improvement
Click to expand...

Easier to just ARB the diff and forget all the tools (and worries)?
 
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