What are the settings used for the backup camera? Trigger wire needed?
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Build "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread
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- #742
Ryan came up on Spotify a few days ago. I hadn't listened to that album in years!
End-of-day update below:
^How I mounted the Joying brains (for future reference), and the aux mic. I also cleaned up the wiring in the glovebox area - including removing about 5' of extra wire from the WAT TCC lockup harness - so it really ate up a lot of my afternoon. Lastly, I had to fix the bezel for the clock/MPG meter with some ABS pipe glue as some of the tabs broke off when I removed it.
^Center console area is put back together and everything is working. I did run into some issues with the fit of the Joying. It's not perfect on the top, and the contour at the bottom is not right, which kind of affected the whole center stack. Overall it's fine enough but clearly Chineseium and not OEM. Also I got the steering wheel controls to work via the settings in the Joying.
PS - Rednexus Radio often plays chillwave electronica when it's not streaming folk/red dirt/alt country
.^Overall I'm happy with the look. It's much more OEM-ish and period correct with the age of the rig than the PX6 was. And, now everything has a buttons! Tomorrow I'll get the glovebox put back together and then work on replacing the front speakers and the sub. Now that I have bass, it's clear several are blown.
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- Thread starter
- #743
^Pretty amazing just how bad these speakers were. Can't wait to listen to things again.
^Easiest part of the job. I wired the PowerBass 6x9s as 8-ohm per the instructions. I used some no-cut wiring harnesses from and door adapters from Amazon, which made this plug-and-play. Now to replace the tweeter, do the other side, and start on the subwoofer which will NOT be plug-and-play.
Really amazing to me the condition of the HVAC control - from the pictures, it still looks brand new!Ryan came up on Spotify a few days ago. I hadn't listened to that album in years!
End-of-day update below:
View attachment 4057512
View attachment 4057513
^How I mounted the Joying brains (for future reference), and the aux mic. I also cleaned up the wiring in the glovebox area - including removing about 5' of extra wire from the WAT TCC lockup harness - so it really ate up a lot of my afternoon. Lastly, I had to fix the bezel for the clock/MPG meter with some ABS pipe glue as some of the tabs broke off when I removed it.
View attachment 4057514
^Center console area is put back together and everything is working. I did run into some issues with the fit of the Joying. It's not perfect on the top, and the contour at the bottom is not right, which kind of affected the whole center stack. Overall it's fine enough but clearly Chineseium and not OEM. Also I got the steering wheel controls to work via the settings in the Joying.
PS - Rednexus Radio often plays chillwave electronica when it's not streaming folk/red dirt/alt country
View attachment 4057515
^Overall I'm happy with the look. It's much more OEM-ish and period correct with the age of the rig than the PX6 was. And, now everything has a buttons! Tomorrow I'll get the glovebox put back together and then work on replacing the front speakers and the sub. Now that I have bass, it's clear several are blown.
Mine were pretty bad as well. Though I've only replaced the front passenger door so far since it sounded terrible compared to the rest.
I was also able to remove the speaker adapter from the stock speaker. One minor trip of the plastic and the new speaker sat right in. I think I also used a heat gun to melt some of the glue between the adapter and the old speaker before removing. Was able to reuse the factory speaker harness adapters as well!
Pic of new/old speakers
- Thread starter
- #746
I realized too I probably could have re-used the OEM adapters after removal, but I already had the new adapters in-hand so they went in
.^The PS Mark Levinson tweeter had fallen out of the plastic bracket and broken one of the connections. I already had a new tweeter from Lexus so I replaced it and will keep this one as a spare. A bit of solder is all it would need to work again. PSA - when cutting a tiny plastic mic bracket with your big bandsaw, please hold it with a set of pliers
.^The DS tweeter had also fallen out of the bracket, but the solder connection was still holding. So I re-attached it with some ABS pipe glue. I should have pre-emptively done this to the PS tweeter prior to re-installing.
^I fired up the system and it sounds pretty awesome! I went ahead and ripped apart the rear cargo area and found that the ML sub was in really good shape....and producing quite a bit of bass. So, it's getting re-foamed (I had the Simply Speakers kit on hand) and the Skar is getting returned. This will save me hours of pulling and modifying the sub enclosure to fit the Skar. Not sure why the sub is so much better than the front 6x9s, which were completely clapped out.
However the Simply Speakers kit requires three separate glue applications with 1-hour dry times in between. I'm on application No. 1, so the GX might not be back together totally until tomorrow AM.
- Thread starter
- #747
The unit I bought didn't look so nice, but I caught a lucky break and picked up a dead unit with near perfect buttons on eBay for $40! After it came I realized it was sold by another forum member (whom I've reached out and thanked).
I'm gonna keep an eye out for these units on Car-part.com and stockpile a few more for sale and as a spare. Mine came from a wrecked '06 GX470.
- Thread starter
- #748
Got everything wrapped up this AM. No issues.
^Re-foamed sub. I elected to let it cure overnight with the sub sitting horizontal. I re-installed it this AM. After the install, I noticed the enclosure was vibrating when the sub was hitting due to the top two mounting bolts being loose (20 years of bass will do that I suppose). So I removed all 4 bolts and put some Loctite on them, in addition to checking every other bolt in this area. It sounds great with no distortion at any volume I care to listen at.
^I ran a quick parasitic draw test to pre-emptively avoid a dead battery. Glad I did as the rig was drawing nearly 1 amp with everything off. As suspected, all 3 USB ports on the Joying are always hot, and the wireless Android Auto dongle I had moved over from the PX6 was the high-draw culprit. The Joying has built-in wireless AA so I just removed the AA dongle and got it back down to 55 mA (10% over the Lexus spec of 50 mA, which is fine considering the aftermarket head unit).
^I then loaded apps, got the unit reasonably-well dialed, and took off for a test drive. Overall I'm very happy with this setup from top to bottom! Loving the physical buttons for everything, sound quality, and OEM+ look. Thanks to @M3GX for directing me to the Joying and @BigNick for recommending replacing the front 6x9s with the PowerBass speakers instead of re-foaming the old ML speakers.
Lastly I have a ton of PX6 parts, harnesses, CANBUS decoders, GPS antennas, etc from the old PX6s that were in the rig. I'll keep them around for a few years and then pitch them. If anyone needs some of these spare parts please PM me and I'll let them go for cheap.
^Re-foamed sub. I elected to let it cure overnight with the sub sitting horizontal. I re-installed it this AM. After the install, I noticed the enclosure was vibrating when the sub was hitting due to the top two mounting bolts being loose (20 years of bass will do that I suppose
). So I removed all 4 bolts and put some Loctite on them, in addition to checking every other bolt in this area. It sounds great with no distortion at any volume I care to listen at.^I ran a quick parasitic draw test to pre-emptively avoid a dead battery. Glad I did as the rig was drawing nearly 1 amp with everything off. As suspected, all 3 USB ports on the Joying are always hot, and the wireless Android Auto dongle I had moved over from the PX6 was the high-draw culprit. The Joying has built-in wireless AA so I just removed the AA dongle and got it back down to 55 mA (10% over the Lexus spec of 50 mA, which is fine considering the aftermarket head unit).
^I then loaded apps, got the unit reasonably-well dialed, and took off for a test drive. Overall I'm very happy with this setup from top to bottom! Loving the physical buttons for everything, sound quality, and OEM+ look. Thanks to @M3GX for directing me to the Joying and @BigNick for recommending replacing the front 6x9s with the PowerBass speakers instead of re-foaming the old ML speakers.
Lastly I have a ton of PX6 parts, harnesses, CANBUS decoders, GPS antennas, etc from the old PX6s that were in the rig. I'll keep them around for a few years and then pitch them. If anyone needs some of these spare parts please PM me and I'll let them go for cheap.
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There is also a Factory setting, code 8888, to have Joying shut down instead of sleeping when disconnected from ACC. Try that and see if the draw drops any. I've needed to do this on my Jeep since it doesn't get driven everyday and I was fighting a battery drain issue. Though I never broke out the multimeter to check anything.Got everything wrapped up this AM. No issues.
View attachment 4058690
^Re-foamed sub. I elected to let it cure overnight with the sub sitting horizontal. I re-installed it this AM. After the install, I noticed the enclosure was vibrating when the sub was hitting due to the top two mounting bolts being loose (20 years of bass will do that I suppose
View attachment 4058692
^I ran a quick parasitic draw test to pre-emptively avoid a dead battery. Glad I did as the rig was drawing nearly 1 amp with everything off. As suspected, all 3 USB ports on the Joying are always hot, and the wireless Android Auto dongle I had moved over from the PX6 was the high-draw culprit. The Joying has built-in wireless AA so I just removed the AA dongle and got it back down to 55 mA (10% over the Lexus spec of 50 mA, which is fine considering the aftermarket head unit).
View attachment 4058694
^I then loaded apps, got the unit reasonably-well dialed, and took off for a test drive. Overall I'm very happy with this setup from top to bottom! Loving the physical buttons for everything, sound quality, and OEM+ look. Thanks to @M3GX for directing me to the Joying and @BigNick for recommending replacing the front 6x9s with the PowerBass speakers instead of re-foaming the old ML speakers.
Lastly I have a ton of PX6 parts, harnesses, CANBUS decoders, GPS antennas, etc from the old PX6s that were in the rig. I'll keep them around for a few years and then pitch them. If anyone needs some of these spare parts please PM me and I'll let them go for cheap.
- Thread starter
- #750
Thanks! I'll do that for sure. I have a switched USB aux port at the back of the rig if I need to charge something with the ignition off. I'd prefer that over having the constant-hot USBs which could draw down the battery by accident.
55 mA is about what the rig was drawing before when it had the PX6 (as I found out when spending hours diagnosing a parasitic draw as a bad dome light switch), so it shouldn't cause me any long-term battery issues.
- Thread starter
- #751
The GX is out and the John Deere is in.
^While brushogging the some very overgrown fields at the family farm, I had a sapling come up and crush the hydraulic filter on the tractor (a $50 filter from JD!). I kept running it like this but finally went to replace it. Unfortunately it really tweaked the filter onto the housing, and I had to use the air hammer to get the filter off. While doing that I messed up the aluminum housing pretty bad (luckily Deere stocks them and they are $135). Not the best design from John Deere as the filter is in a vulnerable location.
^So to keep this from happening again I built a skidplate. There are two M16-tapped holes in the transmission housing near the filter, but the filter sticks a good 8" out past that with nothing to tie the skid to, which made this challenging. I started with some bent flat stock and just kept adding to it (not as "clean" as my normal fabrication style, but hey this is a agricultural machine).
^I put some 1.5' square tube on the bottom of it to stiffen things up. It was pretty flexy without it. I think this could be used as a lifting point to jack up the tractor.
^Here you can see just how far this thing sticks out past the bolts into the transmission. I also added some corner gussets next to the bolts to stiffen it up a bit more. This is 100% scrap steel I had laying around, so it cost nothing to make.
^All painted up in some Rustoleum John Deere Green. Next this thing will be getting some aux lights on the ROPS, a block heater, and a battery tender so it's a bit happier starting at -10F when I need to push show (if it ever gets cold this winter like it did last year). I also have a transmission heater, but can not for the life of me figure out where it's supposed to thread into, despite Deere saying it fits my tractor. Luckily my local dealer is pretty good, so I'll just ask them.
^While brushogging the some very overgrown fields at the family farm, I had a sapling come up and crush the hydraulic filter on the tractor (a $50 filter from JD!). I kept running it like this but finally went to replace it. Unfortunately it really tweaked the filter onto the housing, and I had to use the air hammer to get the filter off. While doing that I messed up the aluminum housing pretty bad (luckily Deere stocks them and they are $135). Not the best design from John Deere as the filter is in a vulnerable location.
^So to keep this from happening again I built a skidplate. There are two M16-tapped holes in the transmission housing near the filter, but the filter sticks a good 8" out past that with nothing to tie the skid to, which made this challenging. I started with some bent flat stock and just kept adding to it (not as "clean" as my normal fabrication style, but hey this is a agricultural machine).
^I put some 1.5' square tube on the bottom of it to stiffen things up. It was pretty flexy without it. I think this could be used as a lifting point to jack up the tractor.
^Here you can see just how far this thing sticks out past the bolts into the transmission. I also added some corner gussets next to the bolts to stiffen it up a bit more. This is 100% scrap steel I had laying around, so it cost nothing to make.
^All painted up in some Rustoleum John Deere Green. Next this thing will be getting some aux lights on the ROPS, a block heater, and a battery tender so it's a bit happier starting at -10F when I need to push show (if it ever gets cold this winter like it did last year). I also have a transmission heater, but can not for the life of me figure out where it's supposed to thread into, despite Deere saying it fits my tractor. Luckily my local dealer is pretty good, so I'll just ask them.
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Nice to be able to fix things!
I just replaced 4 suspension struts on our washing machine (didnt know that was a thing till last week lol). Then replaced both hot/cold valves and piping to our hot water heater.
I just replaced 4 suspension struts on our washing machine (didnt know that was a thing till last week lol). Then replaced both hot/cold valves and piping to our hot water heater.
We were getting uneven load every cycle. Replaced the struts and good as new!
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- #754
With how bad and expensive most repair folks are, it's just easier to DIY stuff. I'd rather buy tools and do it myself as opposed to paying someone else who shows up late, charges a bunch, and doesn't do the best job. Then the tools are kept! Didn't know washers had struts though! Will keep an eye on those if ours act wonky in the future .
Big milestone today on the rig! Wasn't planning on hitting 200K today - had a 5-hour work trip but Enterprise decided to give my pre-reserved rental to someone else without even bothering to give me a call. So I took the GX instead. Still super quiet, comfortable, and powerful with all these miles on it, and still pulls 80 without breaking a sweat.
.Big milestone today on the rig! Wasn't planning on hitting 200K today - had a 5-hour work trip but Enterprise decided to give my pre-reserved rental to someone else without even bothering to give me a call. So I took the GX instead
. Still super quiet, comfortable, and powerful with all these miles on it, and still pulls 80 without breaking a sweat.
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- Thread starter
- #755
Tractor "mods" are more or less done, so this will be the last JD Green content on my thread for awhile.
^Mounted some LED lights on the ROPS. This photo is with all of the lights in my shop turned off. The front end loader can completely obscure the headlights, which are pretty dim halogens, and there is no lighting in the rear other than dim red taillights. The few times I've used the tractor near/after dark, it's been super sketchy. These are cheap Nilight LED pods (white forward, amber backward). JD included aux light wiring - triggered by the OEM headlight switch - but their light kit is nearly $400. I have <$100 in this and have legit 360 degree lighting now.
^Lights, mounts, and Deutsch connectors. Mounts are basic 1.5" flat stock. I committed the cardinal sin of drilling and rivnuting the ROPS to mount these, but I wanted something that was both robust and easily removeable.
^While I was in there I hard mounted NOCO battery tender and a block heater. Both are controlled by push button switches that light up when a cord is plugged into the NOCO receptacle. Deere left a prefect, sealed recess under the black plastic area for me to wire all of these things together. Wire routing was a bit of pain along hydraulic hoses etc., and probably required >100 zip ties.
I also changed the oil, cleaned the primary fuel filter, adjusted brake and clutch pedal free play, and lubed all the grease zerks. It should be good until this time next year. The JD 10W30 that was in it looked like crap (jet black) with only 50 hours on it, so it got Mobil Delvac ESP 5W40 full-synthetic diesel oil.
^Mounted some LED lights on the ROPS. This photo is with all of the lights in my shop turned off. The front end loader can completely obscure the headlights, which are pretty dim halogens, and there is no lighting in the rear other than dim red taillights. The few times I've used the tractor near/after dark, it's been super sketchy. These are cheap Nilight LED pods (white forward, amber backward). JD included aux light wiring - triggered by the OEM headlight switch - but their light kit is nearly $400. I have <$100 in this and have legit 360 degree lighting now.
^Lights, mounts, and Deutsch connectors. Mounts are basic 1.5" flat stock. I committed the cardinal sin of drilling and rivnuting the ROPS to mount these, but I wanted something that was both robust and easily removeable.
^While I was in there I hard mounted NOCO battery tender and a block heater. Both are controlled by push button switches that light up when a cord is plugged into the NOCO receptacle. Deere left a prefect, sealed recess under the black plastic area for me to wire all of these things together. Wire routing was a bit of pain along hydraulic hoses etc., and probably required >100 zip ties.
I also changed the oil, cleaned the primary fuel filter, adjusted brake and clutch pedal free play, and lubed all the grease zerks. It should be good until this time next year. The JD 10W30 that was in it looked like crap (jet black) with only 50 hours on it, so it got Mobil Delvac ESP 5W40 full-synthetic diesel oil.
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- Thread starter
- #756
Crazy snow storm here in the Ozarks. Around 10" here, and it's super-fine, powder snow (Utah-like), which we almost never get here.
^We've been generally hunkering down, but I did get out this afternoon once it stopped snowing. Roads are generally in pretty bad shape (pic above is a 4-lane US highway). We far enough south to not have a big snow plot fleet, but far enough north to still get big snow storms. My kids will probably be out of school all next week as it's gonna stay cold.
^Went up to the top of one of our local knobs. The rig was doing great until I shifted into 3rd gear (high range) and lost momentum. Barely got going again in 2nd gear, with the rear locked, and a ton of wheelspin all the way to the top. Not sure I could have done with without the nannies-off switch and rear locker.
^Coming back down. Pics don't do the steepness justice. There were tracks from a number of folks who had slid off into the ditch. 2 Jeeps were coming down on my way up.
^We've been generally hunkering down, but I did get out this afternoon once it stopped snowing. Roads are generally in pretty bad shape (pic above is a 4-lane US highway). We far enough south to not have a big snow plot fleet, but far enough north to still get big snow storms. My kids will probably be out of school all next week as it's gonna stay cold.
^Went up to the top of one of our local knobs. The rig was doing great until I shifted into 3rd gear (high range) and lost momentum. Barely got going again in 2nd gear, with the rear locked, and a ton of wheelspin all the way to the top. Not sure I could have done with without the nannies-off switch and rear locker.
^Coming back down. Pics don't do the steepness justice. There were tracks from a number of folks who had slid off into the ditch. 2 Jeeps were coming down on my way up.
And in the meantime here in the PNW we ain't getting anything. We NEED the snow and low temps. I'm going to have a busy fire season in the dark months if we don't get our snow. And, the lack of snow melt will significantly effect the water sources. Side note, the bugs will be atrocious in the spring if we don't get our low temps. 
- Thread starter
- #759
Had some fun using the JD today too
. Pretty impressed with how well the little Japanese-made Yanmar diesel does in single-digit temps with below-zero wind chill. Ran every bit as good as it does when it's warm out. I, on the other hand, only lasted an hour or so before my toes got numb. - Thread starter
- #760
It was 72F here on Christmas day. Bugs were flying around! Hope you all get some snow/precipitation for sure!And in the meantime here in the PNW we ain't getting anything. We NEED the snow and low temps. I'm going to have a busy fire season in the dark months if we don't get our snow. And, the lack of snow melt will significantly effect the water sources. Side note, the bugs will be atrocious in the spring if we don't get our low temps.